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Author Topic: Second Row doors and 109 Fuel tank  (Read 281 times)
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Dr Danger
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« on: March 15, 2019, 05:51:40 PM »

Is there a source of remanufactured second row doors? Also is anyone making S2 109 fuel tanks with drilled holes for the sender not the lock ring.
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AlexB
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« Reply #1 on: March 15, 2019, 06:00:00 PM »

The Paintman purports to have some second row doors that he reckons  are within spec

Worth a shout. Not got contact details though I am afraid
No idea re tanks though
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gibbo103
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« Reply #2 on: March 15, 2019, 07:31:57 PM »

His website has been showing out of stock for a while now
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AlexB
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« Reply #3 on: March 15, 2019, 07:42:28 PM »

 I spoke to someone a week or so ago
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jkhackney
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« Reply #4 on: March 15, 2019, 08:06:44 PM »

About 8 years ago I couldn't find one with a screw-in sender and bought one with the lock ring. It was on sale, though (Paddocks), so the compromise was less painful.  It's holding up extremely well, not a bit of rust on it or in it. The sender is nearly worthless though. I think it's a few gallons smaller than the original, too.

In the meantime my metallurgy skills have improved a lot and I've actually modified a cheap S2 tank to become an S1 tank by chopping off the filler neck and installing the S1 underseat filler and moving the fuel pickup.

Long story short, new tanks are pretty easy to adapt with a drill, side-cut pliers, butane torch and soft solder.

I'm pretty sure the threaded backing plate for the screw-in sender would be soldered into the original tank and could be removed and used in the new tank without much effort. The backing plate on the fuel pickup was like this on my S1 conversion project. You could drill holes in the lock-ring tank for the screw-in sender, and use a modern adhesive like polyurethane to hold the backing plate -- or even individual nuts -- in place inside the new tank. The lock-ring mounts (a sheet metal ring with three barbs) on the new tank could likewise be removed.

A used tank has to be cleaned carefully, first, of course, before making sparks ...

Jeremy
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Calum
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« Reply #5 on: March 15, 2019, 11:52:43 PM »

As far as I know you have to get a Series 3 tank which is the same overall dimensions but as you say, has the awful lock ring type fuel sender. Worse than that, the sender was moved (why!?) so no longer lines up with the access panels on the tub floor  shakinghead I thought cutting another panel was easier than dropping the tank on mine to sort out the sticking float (which was rubbing the tank wall when full, then staying stuck up there)
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suffixb
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« Reply #6 on: March 16, 2019, 06:57:01 AM »

Is there a source of remanufactured second row doors?

I've considered fixing a set to then offer as exchange units, but I've yet to acquire a set to repair. I made jigs up to fix my own ones, so it would be a waste to not fix some more!

Got any pics of your ones? Everyone* loves pics of rusty stuff!



*Or maybe just me, who knows...
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Supercal2007
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« Reply #7 on: March 16, 2019, 08:00:59 AM »

Not just you ! I like rusty stuff too !!
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oldun
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« Reply #8 on: March 16, 2019, 07:28:38 PM »

 tiphat
          Beware new doors. I sent these back as the were such a good/bad fit.
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Dr Danger
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« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2019, 07:38:53 PM »

Right, looks like it's repairing the original tank time.

Doors - will take some pics but there is pretty much just dust in there instead of frame, not sure there is even a section to start welding repair to left.

Are the new front door that are available any better fit?
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p_allen921
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« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2019, 08:55:48 PM »

As far as I know you have to get a Series 3 tank which is the same overall dimensions but as you say, has the awful lock ring type fuel sender. Worse than that, the sender was moved (why!?) so no longer lines up with the access panels on the tub floor

My info is 6/8+ years old but :-

 I fitted an aftermarket tank [supposedly S3, maker nixweiss?] and diesel sender [Britpart] 8 years ago which I got from Paddocks -- the cut-outs in the floor lined up OK and everything worked, but the tank was not quite as wide as the original stationwagon tank which barely had room for the exhaust to fit between it and the chassis.

After 2 years approx the sender failed and I replaced it with a Britpart one sourced from Paddocks again --- this fitted the tank lock ring but the float went off in the wrong direction. I complained and tried 2 differing senders which Paddocks got for me and they were all the same. Paddocks could find no explanation why the senders would not fit the tank although the original one did and to this day I have a fuel gauge which only works when the tank is less than 1/4 full because the float arm cannot come up very high. After 2 years they were unwilling to consider any compo and I could not be bothered to buy a new tank to fit the senders which were available.

My first thought was that the sender changed after a short period but the parts book only gives 2 part numbers for senders and that is diesel and petrol variants.


2nd row doors

It might be worth seeing if Paddocks have cured the non-fitting problems cited by oldun  ^^^^^^.  A while ago [sometime in Jan.] the boss man came out and asked to measure the original ones fitted to my dormobile as he was going to have a new supplier make some up.
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Calum
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« Reply #11 on: March 18, 2019, 05:02:28 PM »

Well my sender did the same so I've bent the float arm so it clears the tank. I did have to cut a new panel in the floor of my tub though to change it - I fit it to the tank before installing the tank first time round. 1967 6 pot, so originally had the narrow 11 gallon (I think) tank. When I got it it had already gained a full 15 gallon (?) 'station wagon' tank and the sender in that was a 6 screw job and lined up with the tub access panels. This too was around 8 years ago when I bought and fitted the new one, maybe they are different now?
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jkhackney
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« Reply #12 on: March 18, 2019, 07:37:28 PM »

Dr. D-
fuel tank repairs aren't allowed, here in Switzerland, unless certified by some kind of professional. So if you're good at it, no one will notice and you're fine without an "expert certification". But my skills weren't good enough to fool anyone at that time and I had to buy the new tank.

Anyway, at some point I did measure up the tanks and the new one has a slanted rear which reduces its capacity relative to the old one, which is straight. Also it's not as wide, as mentioned. That is, it's as wide externally but the soldered flanges are deeper, so the sides of the tank are closer together, if that makes sense?

My first sender's coil self-unwound and the second one had the same problem but I re-wrapped and dipped it in epoxy and it's worked since, at least from 3/4 to E. It never reads "full". The pickup tube ends a good distance above the bottom of the tank though, further reducing my range per tank!

I have effectively 55 liters of useful capacity, 45 if it's hilly terrain.

Good luck repairing yours!


Jeremy
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