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Author Topic: Re: Propshaft bolt pattern drawing  (Read 499 times)

w3526602

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Re: Propshaft bolt pattern drawing
« on: May 01, 2022, 05:34:47 AM »

Hi Andrew,

I suspect (but don't know) that the bolt holes will be on standard nominal, fractional, Imperial, rectangular, co-ordinates.

To clutch figures out of thin air, something LIKE 2.3/4" x 2.7/8".  When measuring hole centres, do not measure hole centre to hole centre, but measure the edge of one hole to the corresponding edge of the next hole ... and cross your fingers that the holes are the same nominal size.

When I was doing my Draughtsman training, we were taught to, wherever possible, specify (from a catalogue) an easily purchasable item, and then design the bespoke bits to fit. It keeps costs down. Similarly, choose a nominal size round bar, and drill the hole to match.

You do not specify which end of the new prop-shaft you need to change.  My fingers are crossed for you, that it's the gearbox end, which will have the sliding yoke (aka... the short bit). I have seen new sliding yokes, sans Hardy Spicers, in the Swansea 4x4 Centre, albeit many years ago. During the same era, I was aware that my local vehicle engineers would make custom prop-shafts, from new components, or shorten and balance your prop-shaft, for a similar price to a Bearmach (trusting my memory for names) new prop-shaft for a Series.

If you need to alter the length of a prop, or change one end I suggest that you do TWO things ...

1. Get hold of either HOT CAR magazine, or CUSTOM CAR magazine, assuming they are still published in UK, where you will find adverts aimed at people who do silly things to their cars, or check out you local BT Yellow Pages (assuming it still exists) to find you local ENGINE SHOP.

My own experience was fitting a Morris Marina 1.3 A-PLUS engine into Barbara's 1965 1100cc Spridget. Luckily, one of the above magazines had already done this, and published an article listing which parts were needed from which other donors, and which parts needed modifying and how.
All I can remember now (it was a long time ago) that I needed a Marina engine, a backplate of some other BLMC engine, and the original MG four-bolt flywheel drilled to fit six bolt crank-shaft. There was something else, but I can't remember what.

I gave the list to the engineer, who glanced at it, and handed it back.

"I know what to do ... and I don't get out of bed for less than £20!"

The parts were ready the following morning ... £20.

I am aware of at least one Morris 1000 (Midwife) that had been fitted with a  Marina 1800 (AKA MGB) engine.  Marina chassis rails are drilled to accept both 1300 and 1800 engines, virtually a straight swap, apart from the exhaust, but you probably don't want to know that.

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