Print

[Xavier]

So I have the overdrive out and rebuilt. I have the hand brake out and just about rebuilt. I have had to take out all the hand brake linkages , as they were seized and corroded.  They are now moving again. It took a blow torch and vast quantities of WD 40 to get them apart. I’ll replace the hand brake shoes, as they have oil on them.  While the seats are out and the floor is up, is there anything else I should look at? Any oil seals?  Are there any transfer case or gearbox seals that usually need replacing at this point?  I will probably play about with the fuel sender, as I think it is fouling the pick up tube in the fuel tank.

[Wittsend]

    &  to the Forum.

You should certainly look at the rear output seal on the transfer box and the land on the shaft on which it runs.
If the land is anything but in pristine condition you need to replace or more likely (cheaper) fit a speedy-sleeve and a new seal.

It is oil leaking form here that gets in and contaminates the handbrake shoes 


 

[Sunny Jim]

Rear drive flanges for the transfer box are awesomely expensive (ca £200), so recovery as stated above, is the way to go! The front drive flange may, or may not be leaking, so it is worth fetching it out - fortunately, new ones of these are much cheaper if it is badly worn.

I got a new rear one from Cyprus a few years ago, cheaper than you could get them over here, even including postage!

Sunny Jim

[Clifford Pope]

Pat the top of your head and rub your tummy?

Carry a brimming cup of tea on a saucer while talking on the phone?

Touch your toes while standing with your back against a wall?

:)

[nathanglasgow]

 

[Xavier]

Ok. I’ll order up a new output seal.  I’ll take the whole flange/ shaft assembly out to look at its condition.  Is there some other felt seal or washer?  I’ve read about needing to fit one when doing the output seal, but I don’t know where it goes.

[Wittsend]

The transfer output shaft seal (front & rear) is pn: FRC1780 - try and get a Corteco branded seal.

On the end of the rear output shaft, under the big nut and plain washer you have a fuzzy felt seal - pn: RTC3515
(This looks like the felt seal on the axle drive shaft ends, but is NOT the same part.)

 

[diffwhine]

It gets a bit confusing as the felt seals don’t show on the Series 2/2A parts catalogues, but are there on the Series 3.

Make sure you renew the 6 securing nuts for the handbrake drum and also the propshaft nuts.

If the seal running surface on the rear output flange is scored, the cheapest and simplest solution is to fit a Speedi Sleeve.

[Xavier]

Speedy sleeve?  Not just rubbing with 400 grit wet and dry?  Where do I get a speedy sleeve?

[Wittsend]

Not just rubbing with 400 grit wet and dry?

You wish - not a chance - one-way ticket to be replacing the seal again (and again).
The area on the shaft where the seal runs needs to be in pristine condition, else it will soon start leaking.

Search on eBay for Speedy-Sleeves, this is the part you need:-


 


You need to "fashion" a sleeve insertion tool from some scrap pipe (can be plastic) and you can use the "hot/cold" fitting method.
Put the output shaft in the freezer for 30 minutes and warm the sleeve in an oven after you've done your pie - say, non more than 100 degrees C. - leather gloves to handle the sleeve and position it.


It goes on something like this - centre the sleeve over the area of seal wear on the shaft:-






 

[diffwhine]

Just to tack on to Alan’s comment about using the freezer, I would strongly advise that in order to maintain some semblance of domestic harmony, that prior permission is sought from the management before attempting to make use of either freezer or oven.

[Wittsend]

For the freezer I bag the item.

The rest is done when Mrs Wittsend has gone out !

[Xavier]

My shed has an ancient fridge that I keep beer in. It has a small freezer compartment ideal for such shenanigans. I had a look at shaft today, it will definitely need the sleeve.  Thanks for the information. Seal is also kaput.  The hand brake drum was full of oil. Some of it turning to tar.  I think it must have been like this for a long time.  There is no MOT in Western Australia. I think this would have been a fail.

[Wittsend]

Depends if you have hills in Western Oz 

Another solution is not to keep filling the transfer box with oil.
Let the oil leak to find its own level.
There will still be enough oil in the box to do the lubrication, but the oil leak will stop.
Another, another thing is to fit a breather to the transfer box, this will stop the air in the box being pressurised and forcing oil out.


 

[Xavier]

Is there a link to “ how to fit a breather”?