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[Wittsend]

 

Quite so - they have the beam setter all set up - just takes a tweak on 2 screws to get it right - a few seconds at most.
(Your headlights should be in such a condition that the adjusters work.)

Shouldn't really be submitting a vehicle that doesn't pass the wheel rock test - though a lot of people just "wing it" - put the vehicle in and hope for the best 
No excuse for "simple" fails that could/should have been spotted on a pre-MoT check - things like broken bulbs, worn tyres, cracked windscreen, no horn, etc. etc.

 


 

[A-Ro]

Yes, you’re right, I’m defending my garage but they are culpable to a certain extent because they should have checked those things.

[Calum]

First time I took my MGB for a test it became apparent the chassis number plate on the slam panel was missing (had been a full resto a few years earlier and probably missing since then). My tester got it up on the system from the registration plate and wrote the chassis number on a piece of paper and sat it in the window. Passed no problem and I ordered a new blank chassis plate when I got home.

[Peter Holden]

With my VRO hat on!!

Whoever says the stamped in number on the dumb iron wont do is talking absolute twaddle.

These vehicles DONOT HAVE A VIN, they were built before VINs were dreampt up (It is an important distinction)   They have a cxhjassis or car number stamped on the chassis.  It is also on a bulkhead/chassis plate that is fastened elsewher usually on the bulkhead but some are on the seat box and some on the radiator slam panel.  However and this is important - it is only secured by screws and is portable.  There is no requirement to have that plate, it everyone relied on that it would be so easy to clone vehicles

If the MOT station is new to MOTs they should be on the ball and be aware of the rules as they will have only just been trained. 

The bulkhead plate is easier for the tester to read than the chassis number

The stamped in chassis number is the vehicle identifier.

On modern cars there is a non removable VIN visible through the windscreen but it is also stamped into the bodyshell in several places.

If it was my MOT station I would have been arguing the toss.

Peter

[AlexB]

there are MOT stations / testers and there are MOT stations / testers !

My normal station was fine until they let the "child" do the MOT. Testing the handbrake while on the move resulted in my having to replace the lt77 much earlier than I had intended

I don't think things will get better as fewer and fewer old cars will be MOT'd and the gene pool of experienced testers will fade away

[Peter Holden]

This is from the testers instructions in the manual
You must check the vehicle is displaying a legible vehicle identification number.

A vehicle identification number (VIN or chassis number) is required on:

    kit cars and amateur built vehicles first used on or after 1 September 2001
    all other vehicles first used on or after 1 August 1980

Vehicles may have the VIN displayed in more than one location, but only one VIN is required to be complete and legible.

It does not say that you have to have a stamped plate!!!  It just says thatVIN or chassis number has to be legible.  Where would you expect to find a chassis number if not on the chassis.

Can you tell this has really got me annoyed.

Peter

[Noddy]

One MOT the tester said the vehicle (S11A 1972) failed on emissions because the engine was a '92 and was tested as such also failed because it did not have belts for the second row seats and failed because it did not have any working hazard lights. He went off to have a word with his mate at the DVLA. Came back with the pass certificate.

Alec

[Peter Holden]

If you take your  truck for MOT  make sure  you have access to the testers manual, you may have to explain the rules to the tester.

Peter

[Wittsend]

If you are not happy with the outcome of your MoT test you can appeal/complain.

New owners and people new to the hobby should ask on here what the MoT deal is.

We can advise on what is tested and how.
We can advise on garages/test stations that know about old Land Rovers and how to test them.

We are not after an easy pass - we just want the test conducted properly, by the book.

Attached HERE is the MoT Testers Manual ... recommended bed-time reading.

Also, I've attached a Pre-MoT check list and guide as to what is tested ... HERE


 

[Betsy1969]

Maybe they haven't encountered taper wheel bearings?

The place I used to go to (on the list I linked to) didn't fail mine on misaligned headlights - they adjusted them - no charge!

My local guy did the same for me , there are some decent men left

[w3526602]

Hi,

My understanding is that the MOT fee should take a specified time, which allows for minor adjustments, and replacements.

But hey, what do I know?

602

OT,  I assume everybody knows that an unbraked trailer (and probably others) should have it's MGW marked ON, or NEAR, the drawbar. One inch (25mm) high, hand painted characters are acceptable, but I bought me a set of number stamps (I think about £9 from Tool Station). I think the regulations demand more, but that would be unrealistic on most old trailers.

The ultimate weight limiiting factor are the MGW of the tyres (My rule of thumb is that 10" Mini tyres are 600kg per pair, and just about anything else will be close to 750kg. Remember we will soon have the age of ALL our tyres to contend with.

Another of my rules of thumb, is the rubber suspension units with 4 bolt fitting are probably 500kg  MGW, and 6 bolts are probably 750kg MGW.  But repeat PROBABLY, you should really invert the trailer, and try to find the makers  GVW stamp.

Tongue in cheek time ... I read somewhere, many yonks ago, that if more than 20% of the trailer's weight is super-imposed on the tractor unit, the rig becomes "articulated". Please don't quote me on that, do your own research.

I assume we have heard the story about the police stopping a Ford Transit van on the motorway. They wanted to know why the driver kept stopping, getting out and kicking the sides of his van.

The driver explained that his van had a 1000kg load capacity, but he was carrying 2000kg of live chickens ... he had to keep at least half of them airbourne.

I'll get my coat.

602

[autorover1]

If you are not happy with the outcome of your MoT test you can appeal/complain.

Years ago I took my 80" for an MoT after just rebuilding  both swivels . Garage failed it on play in wheel bearing.  So I advised that I had just rebuilt it using a dial gauge to set the end float to the minimum specified. He still said it was a fail. I then asked him what the process was to appeal and he changed his decision ( this time!)

[Phil2014]

Speaking as an ex MOT tester, if going by the book, you are not allowed to make any adjustments or repairs during the test, if the ministry man was there watching the vehicle either passed or failed no matter how trivial the fault. One example was, we used to test cars for other branches of our company, if it was a car they had for sale, they sometimes had a dealer name badge Velcro’d on to the number plate, during a normal test, we would just take it off, but if you happened to be being observed by someone from VOSA or whoever it was, the vehicle would have to be failed if you hadn’t taken it off before you started the test.
Phil.

[Robin]

Speaking as an ex MOT tester, if going by the book, you are not allowed to make any adjustments or repairs during the test, if the ministry man was there watching the vehicle either passed or failed no matter how trivial the fault.
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From the current MOT inspection manual  HERE

"You must not carry out repairs during an MOT test, but you can make minor adjustments to the headlamp aim."

 

[Phil2014]

From the current MOT inspection manual  HERE

"You must not carry out repairs during an MOT test, but you can make minor adjustments to the headlamp aim."

 

It’s the best part of 20 years since I last did a test, I’m sure the rules will have changed a lot since then, just quoting my experience.