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[island dormy]

  Thanks again for all the advice guys I do appreciate it.
 The big day is fast approaching after 3 years 3 months of restoration work to send the rover to the painters maybe even tomorrow (weather permitting) then this thread will finally be over.
 I did a test crank as far as the door to make sure I could get it outside.1/4 inch to spare I was really worried about the clearance, new parabolics, no doors, no glass, no seat box so no battery which means no starter, no fenders, no bonnet etc. etc. its sitting very high.

  I think I'm ready.

  Victor

[Wittsend]

Let the air out of the tyres for more clearance - if you need it.

You can move the vehicle a few feet on flat tyres and not do any lasting harm to them.

If you wanted - you could jury rig a battery held with a ratchet strap and some temporary cable. You could use jump leads. Fit the starter motor, and away you go, probably a lot safer and you'll have better control over the move.


 

[w3526602]

Hi,

 

Er, hand cranking, without a bumber bar to support the front end of the cranking handle, will make life difficult. Ideally, if cranking a project vehicle, just use the centre section cut from somebody else's bent bumper.

Some of you may remember my plans to hand crank an engineless project around my front garden. Having no engine meant not having a cranking "dog" on the front of the engine.

That was resolved by Dentman donating an axle drive member, which would fit onto the gear-box clutch shaft splines, and somebody else (age related memory loss ) making an adaptor plate to hold a wheel nut  onto the front of the "dog", which would have enabled me to use a line of several socket extension bars, poking through the front bumper, that could be rotated with a ratchet.

In the event, the owner of the project Series decided not to sell.

I too would have had problems getting any Series into my garage, as there only about 70" clearance under my U&O garage door. The immediate solution would have been to remove the full-hardtop.

I don't know if my plans to fit "dinky" wheels and tyres would have been a permanent solution, as well as dropping the passenger seat to Barbara's bum height. In the event, we have since spent circa £10,000 on disability adaptations to our bungalow, so time for a rethink.

602

[Nanuq]

I learned a neat trick watching my buddy move Rovers around in his shop.  Put it in neutral and put your hand on top of the front tire.  Give it a push right on the tread, and it's astounding how easy it is to move.  I'm sure there are mechanical leverages involved, I'll think about the math.

But if push comes to shove (grin) I bet you and three friends could each man a tire, and push that thing anywhere you want it to go just by shoving on the tops of the tires.  Keep wheel chocks handy.

[jkhackney]

I learned a neat trick watching my buddy move Rovers around in his shop.  Put it in neutral and put your hand on top of the front tire.  Give it a push right on the tread, and it's astounding how easy it is to move.  I'm sure there are mechanical leverages involved, I'll think about the math.

But if push comes to shove (grin) I bet you and three friends could each man a tire, and push that thing anywhere you want it to go just by shoving on the tops of the tires.  Keep wheel chocks handy.

For me, hands on top of the tire is the only way to push (as long as the wheels aren't being powered, of course ... you'd hate to be leaning on a tire that suddenly spins!). It cuts the force required in half, same as a 2-pulley block and tackle.

I forgot: I've used my 3/4" ratchet handle on the 48mm socket on the starter dog, with an extension through the front PTO hole, to crank mine around. That's very easy, since the handle lever is about 18" long, compared to the puny hand crank supplied by Rover. Up a hill, someone would have to use the footbrake at every ratchet back-and-forth. I'd have loaned it to you if I were closer (and I'd have helped push -- either the Dormobile or just the brake pedal!).

I still vote for using the moose, though. Good luck!
Jeremy

[diffwhine]

What's the conversion rate from Moose Power to Horse Power?

[Wittsend]

1.4

 

[island dormy]

  Hi Guys

  I know that hand on the tire trick it works wonderfully. I used to have a 1 Inch drive ratchet with a 3 foot handle that would have given all kinds of leverage, good idea Jeremy. I think I could borrow the one from work no problem we are not doing much on the trains right now anyway.
  However we have severe winter fog here this morning, after all the work I have done on this vehicle I really dont want to take it out and get it sopping wet, it is supposed to clear up this afternoon so I am still hopeful this will go ahead. Its only a 10-15 minute trip to the painters shop.

  Victor

[w3526602]

Put it in neutral and put your hand on top of the front tire.  Give it a push right on the tread,

Hi Nanook,

The top of the tyre wil move twice as fast as the hub, so requiring half the grunt , but for twice as long, for the same distance moved.

I think?

f you expect to do a lot of manhandling ... I hung a 750kg boat winch from the RSJ gantry, which was built into the walls of the garage below my self-built house. It could pull a LWB S2 estate up the 20+ ft of my 1:8 drive., and into the garage. However, the more cable on the drum, the more effort it needed. So I added lengths of old seat belt, chocking the wheels, and removing individual belts, every few feet.

There have to be better ways, but hey, I didn't need to do it very often.

Note, boat winches are rated by their pulling ability, not their ability to lift, and the more cable you have on the drum, the harder it gets.

I had three metres of "wire" on my winch, with old seat belts  as extensions, with suitable bricks as chocks while I shortened the "rope".

602

[w3526602]

Hi,


I have lowered a n S2 by putting a big plastic drum in the tub, and filling with a hose pipe. Then using a syphon pipe to empty the drum when no longer required.  Forty UK gallons weigh 400 pounds. Effortless!

But that was before we had a place in France, and learned the cost of potable water. Nowadays, I ponder on the possible economies of installing a scatter can gentleman's urinal in our bathroom. I think it was the late Duke of Edinburg who commented on the stupidity of "spending a penny" then using a couple of gallons of potable water to flush it away.

For the edification of our overseas readers, it used to cost a penny (in the slot) to use a private cubicle in a public convenience. When we had a place in France, that often gave you access to a "Cubicle Turque", aka "The Squat" .... although the British Military had a rhyming slang name that I'm not allowed to use here.

602

[island dormy]

  Hi Guys

   Well the weather finally cleared up enough to attempt to get the Rover to the paint shop.
   I would like to thank everybody for all their advice, some of it was actually good advice and possibly stood a chance of  actually working, sorry Nanuq no Moose on Vancouver Island I would have had to import one from the mainland, on top of that there's the issue of getting a government permit to keep a wild animal on a city lot, we can have chickens in the city (no roosters) but a Moose is doubtful.
 Some of other advice offered was a tad too far fetched to even consider attempting, but again thanks.
 So I'm going to answer the question on everybody's mind.




  Can you really hand crank a Land Rover backwards up a fairly steep hill just like they did in that famous  WW2 movie  (with the Land rover in the last scene)  "Ice Cold In Alex"






    The answer is................  NO not a chance, I admit defeat, it beat me I was worn out before it even got to the steeper part.

  Victor

[biloxi]

I'm glad that's sorted, thanks for trying.
.W.

[w3526602]

Hi Victor,

Sorry, I have to disagree. I've done it, guestimated slope of I:4, single handed. The 86" S1 moved easily enough, but humping my torso up ad down was an effort, although I was young then (circa 30)

When trying to undo the crank nut on my S2TD, I had all four wheels chocked with 6" concrete block, and hand-brake hard on .... it just rolled over the concrete blocks as though they were not there. It was many years later that I realised my logic was wrong ... being in reverse gear LO-cog was working against me ... I should have been in the highest gear possible ... the exact opposite from mountaineering.

Remember, for hand cranking, to move a truck, you need lowest gear possible, with spark plugs removed ... and maybe somebody on the brakes.

For undoing the crank bolt, you want the highest gear possible, hand brake and chocks, and somebody standing on the brake pedal. It's much easier to use a hammer and chisel.  Kinetics are King.

602