Print

[matada34]

Yeah, ive got a simonbbc unit on mine anyway..... fingers crossed!

[RobS]

To be honest Matt it's lottery with parts these days, that's why I went the 123 Dizzy route, even that brings it's own problems as I've recently reported, but after speaking with Roland at ACR you can understand why issues come up, currently I have an issue with pulling full vacuum at tick-over from the SU to the distributor, initially I thought the drilling take off point for the vacuum pipe on the carb was incorrect but it may not be,  Roland explained that the butterfly in the carb may not be closed as much as it should be and is therefore seeing more vacuum, so he told me that Land Rover require a lot of advance and that I need to change my static timing from 3 deg BTDC to 6 deg BTDC and then start my initial centrifugal advance a 900 RPM and delay the vacuum advance until 1200 RPM - sounds complicated but with this dizzy it's just re-setting the curve on my phone and then send it to the dizzy - job done.

The reason why Roland suggested this, is with a bigger static advance the engine will speed up so I can then reduce the mechanical stop on the butterfly valve thus closing the butterfly which in turn will reduce the vacuum seen at the take off point on the SU - plus increasing the starting point of the centrifugal advance will give a steadier tick-over speed at the lower revs. None of this can be done with the standard distributor weather it comes from the Distributor Doctor or SimonBB.

Nothing is straight forward these days with the *&%^$ fuel we have, so technology is really the only way to get around it, not everyone will agree with this but eventually things will need to change.

Roland as asked if I wouldn't mind bringing my Land Rover over to him so he can have a play on a rolling road to see what can be achieved - for sure I will take him upon this offer as it would be great to see what George is capable of.

Apologies for a slight deviation from the original question but all these things are related in one way or another - plus I love just messing about as for sure I can't do this on my daily driver.

RobS.

[matada34]

Well.... the plot thickens.

I ran my landy last weekend, only for a few miles but it got warm, all seemed ok. This was just after fitting a new fuel pump and stripping the weber carb and cleaning.
Tonight I came to it to go out for a plod, the fuel filter next to the carb was empty  so I hand primed, it only took a few pumps before no more would go in.
She fired pretty much straight away and ran as expected.
Off I went for a drive and too the petrol station, stopped at a mates 2 miles away, just back in started straight back up and I came home.
I left it ticking over for 5 mins on the drive, then pulled her into the garage on tick over and stopped the engine. NO issues...

Opened the bonnet and the fuel filter is empty 

Confused! so i hand primed and it wouldn't prime! Closed the bonnet and came in!

[nathanglasgow]

There is a spot in the cam rotation where it holds the pump arm therefore no amount of lever wiggling will suck fuel. Rotate cam and try again.

[Wittsend]

Sometimes I think it would be better if they made these filters out of black plastic and then you wouldn't worry about the fuel level.

They all run half empty (or half full) sir!

I guess if you mounted the filter vertically, it would stay "full".

In our autumn/winter climate now, I'd not be expecting any vaporisation being the cause of poor re-starts.

At this time of year it's carb icing that can be a problem.
With this, the engine starts and runs OK for about 5 to 1o minutes - then the engine stalls - usually while waiting at a junction or lights.
A re-start can take quite a few attempts 
There after for the rest of the day the engine runs fine - because of the residual heat retained under the bonnet.

Engine stopping after 10 minutes of so is classic coil failure. When the coil get hot it shorts out. When it cools back down it works fine 
You need to eliminate this possibility - before wasting time and money on other parts.
Simply swap coils and see what happens.
The condenser in the dizzy failing can also cause poor running and re-starts.
Electronic ignition eliminates this problem as you do away with the condenser.

It is imperative that the braided earthing wire under the dizzy base plate is in pristine condition.
After 50 years they get a bit unreliable.



 

[matada34]

I missed a key point..... the fuel filter is pointing downwards... or so the fuel will run into the carb. Still shouldnt go anywhere though

[rosinante]

Hi me again , sorry for opening this tin of worms  just to add the ignition components fitted to my landy are as follows,  45d dizzy with electronic bits  heat insulation spacer fitted, new red top  rotor arm , new cap , new plugs , silicone leads , gold coil,  new transparent fuel filter which always has fuel in, stainless tank thst is immaculate inside (I've looked)   new fuel hose, ,
Tomorrow now Iam back home I am gonna have a go at a heat shield above and below the inlet manifold , if that makes no difference then another larger fuel filter in series with the one fitted positioned on the bulkead  to act as a gravity feed reservoir, 
My landy is ex military and I can't see the army putting up with non starting when hot when the bullets are flying, the engines were designed to run on low grade fuel so as Wittsend says perhaps reducing it's volatility with parafin  or the like would also  increase its boiling point , will report back ,
Chris

[Clifford Pope]

perhaps reducing it's volatility with parafin  or the like would also  increase its boiling point

But mixed fluids don't have a single " boiling point" - as the temperature increases the more volatile components evaporate first. I thought that was why petrol "goes off" with age - all the easily ignitable bits have gone, and you are left with parafin and the higher boiling point components which are harder to ignite?

Perhaps the opposite might work - has anyone tried giving a squirt of ether Quick Start in these circumstances?