S2C Forum Archives
Main Section => Welcome to our virtual Pub Meeting ... => Topic started by: Wittsend on August 01, 2022, 10:05:39 AM
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:snowman-1
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Greased the brakes ready for a trip away to mid Wales this weekend. They won't squeak now! :bright-idea
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Greased the brakes ready for a trip away to mid Wales this weekend. They won't squeak now! :bright-idea
Well if I were you I would fix the hub oil seal while you are in there to stop any of that grease being able to leak out of the brakes and into the bearings :brakes
I would also consider what colour underwear to put on for the trip!
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Emptied it.... Tent drying out in the shed.
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Finished the upholstery on the LR and put a bit of wood capping on tub to give an uplift plus step.
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Dave
That looks great.
So after the wedding can you leave it like that for next year's SwW or SPH camping and I'll sit in the back when we go laning.
I'll bring the fridge and the 'Bolly' :cheers
Dave
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Dave
That looks great.
So after the wedding can you leave it like that for next year's SwW or SPH camping and I'll sit in the back when we go laning.
I'll bring the fridge and the 'Bolly' :cheers
Dave
Only if you dress up and look like royalty in the back. Could be a fancy dress theme.
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Do you like the wood capping?
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Wipers removed in preparation for fitting heated windscreen finally, New digital voltage regulator fitted, trim pot added to coolant gauge.
Busy now painting the wiper guides after kurrusting them both
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Finally fixed the driver's door! At last it now closes smoothly and shuts firmly with no rattles.
Took the excellent tips posted on this forum about buying new hinge pins (they cost peanuts), putting a very small brass washer under the ball hinge, packed the hinges (top & bottom) with grease, and then tightened up the nuts as tight as felt right to prevent any movement in the hinges.
I really love it when a niggling, long-lasting fault is finally resolved..... :tiphat
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Went to our local garage to fill up for the club run out on the 14th, was running well... But on the way back it was stalling and wouldn't tick over, guess muck in the jets. ???
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Try the old "book over the carb inlet" trick. With the engine running it can help suck any dirt out of the jets - else a strip down is needed.
:RHD
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Hi Wittsend, yes tried the book trick after posting and it seems to be a bit better, it's ticking over but lumpy so I'll have another go tomorrow and see how it is.
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E10 issue? If not using much stick to E5? :RHD
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Went to our local garage to fill up for the club run out on the 14th, was running well... But on the way back it was stalling and wouldn't tick over, guess muck in the jets. ???
Confirming that I got an email from "The Forestry" today confirming we have been granted the Permit for the 14th...
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Found the mirror I ordered to replace the one eaten by the Somerset Lanes....helpfully the cardboard box had been put in the cardboard recycling bin by the courier.
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I thought I would service the rear brakes on the Panda camper - new wheel cylinders and shoes.
Not to be ... the rear hubs are in a right mess. All will have to be replaced :shakeinghead
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/stub_axle_rear-1.jpg)
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/stub_axle_rear-2.jpg)
Caked up with 6d Handley chalk mud from 2 years ago.
I found that the stub axles are the one piece late Series 3 set up :shakeinghead
The lands the seals run on are shot.
I will replace each side with the correct 2A parts.
One step forward - 2 back.
Hopefully it will all be ready for next season.
:RHD
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It's a nice weekend
Do you take your 50+ year old series to a classic car show?
Nahhhh :-X
Been down the woods now it's dried out (just a little bit on the side of a hill) and been dragging out lots of the dead fall ready for firewood.
(https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/userpics/17776/normal_297966232_10166537681695035_6270370526887967876_n.jpg)
Winched it up to a 'Landing' and then on with the choker chain out to the field.
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Well I did go to a car show,first time at Claremont Farm Bebington,Wirral.
Pleasant show,free entry and nice laid back atmosphere.
The only other Series was New Brighton's Stock Car tow truck.
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Did some more work on my DIY cubby box. Only need to make a lid now and it’s done. Only taken me several months and a fair bit of money, could buy one cheaper but hey ho.
Andy
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Confirmatory Recce for next weekends Green Road Run. It'll be 35Km off tarmac and 10Km of single-track road in the circuit, reaching almost 1000Ft up on the flanks of Ben Lomond.
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The Gormless Greasemonkey is feeling very pleased with himself this Monday morning. "Grethe" was started for the first time in who knows how many years and took her first run around the garden. A few leaks due to poorly tightened bolts and oil pipe linkages, a bit of messing around with the idling (cutting out when I give gas, still needs work) but she actually purred like a kitten.
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During the greenlaning around Cheddar I noticed that the steering had a lot of slack in it. So I watched the drop arm while moving the steering wheel. s suspected there was a lot of movement before the drop arm moved. So I removed the steering box cover plate and slackened off the lock nut and adjusted the end play by a small amount. retightened the locknut. Went for a test drive and found that it didn't self center easily so at the side of the road I made a further adjustment by slackening off the adjuster a fraction and relocking it. The steering was then a lot more precise and the self centering worked. I'll leave the cover box off for a bit and drive it around to make sure it's correct.
Malcolm
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further in WOAs refiit offside chrome ball replaced, hub rebuilt all new seals and lands, cleaned, new shock absorber, new half shaft uj , had to remove remains of old one with grinder.
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With the brake failure coming home from the cheddar rally I've now got round to sorting it out .
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Maybe there's a case for knifer pipes, they will be a little stronger ???
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That's why I always go for steel pipe now, I have had a Kunifer flare fracture in the same place due to vibration, And I always clip the pipes where Land Rover did originally .
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Given the current weather, today was a short drive down the hill for an ice-cream with some improvised shade !
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An interesting blue truck in the photo.
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Went out and bought a 1418 project! Hopefully it'll be back on the road next year...
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An interesting blue truck in the photo.
The guy down the hill from us owns a huge house with a massive garden which he opens up for picnics / mobile fish and chips / wedding marquees etc.
He's got a large collection of vintage stuff from 1930's Austins, to trucks, tractors and even a couple of old Romany caravans.
He tends to park them randomly around the area with advertising hoardings on them for his business !
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Given the current weather, today was a short drive down the hill for an ice-cream with some improvised shade !
Good to see the old girl still out and about :o
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Good to see the old girl still out and about :o
I'm not sure my Mrs will appreciate being called that :-X :-X :-X :-X :-X
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Last leg of tour arrived home at 1am this morning 1500 miles done , at Folkestone had three compliments of series was stopped at customs the chap said only stopped you as it’s the best car I’ve seen today . On the train had a Rolls Royce behind me chap got out and we talked Land Rovers all the crossing I said I think yours maybe a bit more comfortable than mine , at least he also had a new defender as well made the crossing go quickly … :cheers
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Moved the land rover to get the camper into the shade at the side of the house to work on a rooflight. It is so warm that it started without using the heater plugs
Peter
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Moved the land rover to get the camper into the shade at the side of the house to work on a rooflight. It is so warm that it started without using the heater plugs
Peter
Interesting point about ambient temperature. Is there a baseline temp where it might be said that a Diesel engine will fire without pre - heat ?
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Which Diesel engine ?
Each engine type will have it's own characteristics.
The Land Rover 2¼ engine has a particularly high compression ratio at 23:1 and (normally) needs quite a bit of heat to fire up...
Usually you need the heaters on for the 1st start of the day, thereafter it will start on the key.
Conversely the Tdi family of engines (CR at 18:1) will start with no heat come-what-may with the ambient temperature.
Indeed, may owners don't bother wiring up the glow plugs!
:RHD
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Which is odd - you would expect the higher CR to start more easily.
Chris.
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Alan, a 5 bearing 2.25 diesel. It has always been a good starter but it hasn't been started for over a month and it fired first time no heat. I am really impressed
Peter
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Got very excited when the washers I ordered arrived sealed in their original 1962 packaging :first
(https://i.postimg.cc/3rXK2tDg/E2057-A4-D-1-D7-E-4-E5-D-92-CD-9-A27-EB89-B892.jpg)
Hopefully they'll solve my 2022 oil leak.
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Played Land Rover chess in order to fit the 58 in when it arrives in a few days time. Started the Aussie 2a for the first time in over a month and found the fuel pump is weak, so that's another job!
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The Land Rover 2¼ engine has a particularly high compression ratio at 23:1 and (normally) needs quite a bit of heat to fire up...
Usually you need the heaters on for the 1st start of the day, thereafter it will start on the key.
Conversely the Tdi family of engines (CR at 18:1) will start with no heat come-what-may with the ambient temperature.
Are the Tdi's better starters due to being direct injection, unlike their predecessors?
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2.25 diesels are better starters if you fit a 200 or 300 TDI starter as they crank the engine faster. I have one fitted to my 2.25 diesel perhaps that is why it didn't need heat. Our other 2.25 diesel is fitted with a genuine powerlite high speed starter. It cranks over really fast
Peter
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A 35Km run out in Loch Ard Forest....
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Played Land Rover chess in order to fit the 58 in when it arrives in a few days time.
.....
Wouldn't this game be more effective? :tiphat
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This mornings little job
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Ah, damp mornings🤣
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Moved the rolling chassis to its new home in the Scottish Borders. We are selling the current house so I'll need to be careful not to use all of the equity on getting the LR finished!
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... some nice fresh monoblock for you to drip oil on!
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... some nice fresh monoblock for you to drip oil on!
Ha! - that's the house I am selling. I'd like to say that my rebuilt gearbox doesn't leak, but of course, it does!
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Had a very pleasant 20 minute t. inker, changing a much-corroded Extended Filler Pipe. I though my old one was just a bit mucky, but it turned out the SS wire mesh was seriously corroded - to the extent it had rusted completely through!
So I bought a new (expensive) pipe. Looking at the muck that fell out the old one, I'm surprised that my fuel filter isn't stuffed..... I'm ashamed to have let it get to such a state. I do take my SII for granted far too much. :shakeinghead
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Made a prototype light attaching ring, I really don't like self tappers. It is also all aluminium so shouldn't react with the wings as much.
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Disabled part of the automatic corrosion prevention system on the transfer box with a new seal and speedi sleeve. I might even end up with a handbrake that works outside of East Anglia.
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Investigating a loss of clutch function from December (no rush for this things), had found previously that the housings for the spherical bearing on the clutch operating shaft had split. Finally got the shaft free, and this was the state of the old bearing. How it ever worked, I don’t know
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Did a trial fit of the tub and everything appears to line up, not too far away for a correct door gap - just a bit of fettling with the bulkhead. I will need to get some spacers for the bolts. Its been a bit of a journey to get it knocked back into shape!
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Talking with my good old friend this morning
(https://i.ibb.co/znqjrdY/IMG-20220822-075957198.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Qbyzf0R)
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Errrr.... what response did you get from a starting handle? Brrrrrrrmmm?
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Rebuilt the Weber carb which was full of crud! Threw away the inline fuel filter which was choked. New fuel filter installed and no more kangaroo Landy. Rewired the trimpot on the Temp gauge, which will have to wait until Morrow to see if it's working correctly.
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Ah, damp mornings🤣
Time for a leather cover? There is a club discount for a supplier on the club website as I recall. Mine came with a leather cover, it has lasted well. Though a damp morning can have the grime I have ingrained in the leather start to do the same now!
Paul
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Thanks, something i should investigate I think 😊
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Fitted the speedi sleeve and a new seal to the rear output. No more leaks from that location as least.
Gradually getting through my list of defective isssues.
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Thought I'd fit 2 new rear shocks on the Panda camper (SWB).
I have/had a set of 4 shocks in stock.
I can find the 2 fronts, but only 1 rear :'(
Searched the shelves for it - why would it have got separated from the others :thud
I know if I buy a replacement it will suddenly turn up >:D
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HaHa :neener
This is one of the reasons to get old :neener
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Sold another 1 :'(
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Being a bit short of time I put Tonka into a local garage on Weds to get new spring/chassis bushes fitted, providing the parts myself. Its taken them 2 days. Collected Tonka this evening and drove home, certainly a better ride, fewer clunking noises. Then I had a closer look and realised they have only replaced the front bushes, the rears have not been touched....so at a minimum they need to explain where the other 6 bushes, bolts and nuts I gave them are !
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Adjusted the front brakes, pedal much better now :wine3
Rear brake adjusters need some wire brush and Plusgas attention >:(
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Being a bit short of time I put Tonka into a local garage on Weds to get new spring/chassis bushes fitted, providing the parts myself. Its taken them 2 days. Collected Tonka this evening and drove home, certainly a better ride, fewer clunking noises. Then I had a closer look and realised they have only replaced the front bushes, the rears have not been touched....so at a minimum they need to explain where the other 6 bushes, bolts and nuts I gave them are !
My motto , Trust nobody then you won’t ever be disappointed
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Twiddled the adjusting screw on the horn. It now goes BEEP instead of burp :RHD
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Check all oils level. Finished my 1 liter 80w90 bottle after two years pretty good for a series .
Clean and small lubrication of the starter shaft
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8 filler plugs, 8 drain plugs, kept Smith and Allen in business for another year.
:oil spill
Oh the joys of owning a vehicle that is basically a collection of gearboxes on wheels!
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Yesterday in fact.. Put some "bearmach" brake shoes on the front end, utter rubbish, ended up putting the old set (mintex) back on again ( using Mr W's little sleeve things on the adj posts)..
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Went to a local car show to me with the series III I helped a friend put together following close behind.
Lots of series ones there and another series II. I didn't find the owner of this one but was trying to think of a way to tactfully tell him the door hinges are on the wrong side, if I was to meet him.
Craig.
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Yesterday did a run across to Galashiels and Innerleithen with my boy and his 3 bikes (plus mine). Discovered you can get 2+ large modern mountain bikes in the rear of an S2 hardtop, by removing the front wheels (of the bikes), and the middle seat bottom (of the landRover) and slotting the bike forks over the middle seat back. Rear tailgate keeps the bikes nice and snug. With a 3-bike rack on the towbar I could actually carry 6 bikes in/on a SWB hardtop like that.
Too many crankcase fumes on the way there, I need to remove the tired engine and have it rebuilt.
On the way back, noticed a dim ignition lamp at mid revs, but fine at high revs. Eventually, while driving and thinking, and plugging in the handy DMM to the dash terminals and seeing it at 12.02 V (low revs) to 12.5 V (high revs) diagnosed a lack of dynamo field current. Stopped and jiggled with the regulator relays a bit. Thought I'd fixed it but then it stopped working again after a mile. Had 2 hrs of daylight left to get home, and a 2hr drive, so I floored it, running the dynamo on residual magnetism which could produce 12.54 V, driving as fast as reasonably possible, covering the ignition load, but if I turned on any lights the ammeter went -ve. So, some stress mounted, because clearly I couldn't use the lights for any length of time. Then after 20 mins of frantic driving it just started working, jumped back to 13.5-14V and +10A, a nice recharge. So I relaxed and slowed down. Then got 25 miles from home, pretty much dark, and it stopped working again. Jumped out, fiddled with all the wires and connections, but the perhaps most suspect one is down by the dynamo and the exhaust was roasting so I didn't want to risk a major burn. So, just got back in, drove as fast as possible, and took the hit with the sidelights on for the last half hour, JUST making it before it was dark enough that I would have really needed the headlights on. A couple of times it started working again, but only for seconds at a time.
Tonights job ... attempt to locate the (intermittent) dynamo field fault . Hopefully it is just a wire, ?perhaps dynamo end, fractured through vibration? Hopefully not the dynamo internals or regulator relays. Then begin mulling the process of getting the engine out/away/rebuilt.
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Located the dynamo field current problem.
Turned out it was the regulator relay contacts, some spec(s) of dirt in between.
While I'd been driving last night I'd been racking my brains trying to think of something like a piece of paper to drag between them, but couldn't find anything.
A 2 thou feeler gauge dragged through a couple of times tonight sorted it, back to low resistance across the relay contacts, so that gauge will go into the ready-use small tools box in the dashboard.
Interestingly, earlier this summer I'd done the Hugo Holden "freewheel diode" "improvement" to stop the sparking across that contact
https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,10998.msg119730.html#msg119730 (https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,10998.msg119730.html#msg119730)
Now I wonder whether the sparking across that regulator contact actually performs a cleaning action, which is no longer occurring, because this is the first time I've ever had a contact-resistance problem on that relay.
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I moved my 2A the furthest it's travelled in a long while this past weekend...but sadly it was only so I could jetwash the driveway!
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.....
Interestingly, earlier this summer I'd done the Hugo Holden "freewheel diode" "improvement" to stop the sparking across that contact
https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,10998.msg119730.html#msg119730 (https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,10998.msg119730.html#msg119730)
Now I wonder whether the sparking across that regulator contact actually performs a cleaning action, which is no longer occurring, because this is the first time I've ever had a contact-resistance problem on that relay.
That sounds like attempting to gild a lily! There's already a resistor across the regulator contacts which would damp down any field collapse inductive kicks quite effectively. I suspect you're correct about any residual sparking helping to keep the contacts happy.
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Odd that sparking in the regulator box keeps the contacts clean when the exact opposite happens in the contact breaker. In the contact breaker case a capacitor across the points helps to reduce sparking and premature wear, but nothing or only a resistor in the regulator box.
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Yep its interesting. The "snubber" resistor in the back of the regulator is ~66 Ohms, and actually it was that which got me home on sunday, allowing just a trickle of field current through, so at >2500 RPM I could get just enough current to cover the ignition draw.
The Hugo Holden regulator documents are a really good read. I did the modification with a suitable schottky diode, and the sparking on that regulator is visibly reduced away to nothing. I'll keep an eye on it. It could just be purely coincidental that a piece of dirt happened to get in there recently, while its worked flawlessly for years before. But if a high-resistance contact happens regularly again a few times, I might just pop off the regulator, and remove the freewheel diode that Hugo recommends fitting. Its an easy removal process, just snip it out or drop it off with the soldering iron, but it requires removing the regulator from the vehicle, and there are 2 tiny nuts round the back of the bracket that are a bit fiddle. Not a job to do in a rush, or you'll end up with the teeny nuts lost in the grass.
Easy to diagnose in the field (pun) now. Just remove the regulator cover with the engine idling, pump the throttle a dab (by hand under the bonnet), and the cut-in relay should operate with perhaps double the idle revs, or even less. If it doesn't cut in until the engine is really revving, the field current isn't working properly.
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Got a new shiny new MOT OK with the obligatory advisory of an oil leak, :-*
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Trip to local supermarket to collect some pallets …
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Finished welding the last little pieces on the Bulkhead. I was hoping to re paint the whole thing but I don't think that will happen this season. Happy with the progress I have made this year.
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Spent the afternoon ripping out the skylight that the previous owner had installed as it leaks like a sieve! Cleaned the hole up, primed and painted DBG ready for sealing up properly.
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Investigating a loss of clutch function from December (no rush for this things), had found previously that the housings for the spherical bearing on the clutch operating shaft had split. Finally got the shaft free, and this was the state of the old bearing. How it ever worked, I don’t know
Clutch operating shaft re-seated with new bush, housings and felt washers (thanks to Messrs Blanchard); forward and reverse motion restored! Also had the rocker cover off to investigate what I thought might be a sticking valve. Nothing amiss under the cover, and with a new (thicker) gasket on, the noise disappeared. Result!
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After the tracking/tyre scrubbing issue on the way to Cheddar, a new tubeless tyre & rim to replace the gubbed one. Probably about time anyway, the date on it was 1998...
On the other side I've put the old but so far unused spare, so I have two "new" tyres on the front and a usable but part-worn spare.
The Tyres are General Super All Grip radials in 7.50r16. I find them a good off-road tyre with equally good "road manners" and no-where near as noisy as the Xtra-grip copies you may find. The two "new" ones are tubeless, he two rear one and the spare are tubed.
Overall 7.50 r16 is increasingly difficult to obtain, my local tyre retailer said they did not sell them, full stop. That one tyre, bought online, cost me twice as much as the last tyre I bought for the Merc ! The local retailer did, with some reluctance, agree to fit and balance the tyre even though they had not provided it, probably because they get my custom for the cars...
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Drove from John O'Groats back home to Peterborough.
:window
Wiper performance appalling though - will start another thread, and probably one about condensation too!
Chris.
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Got it an MOT pass. No advisories.
:RHD
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Drove to the Severn Valley pub meet, 72 mile round trip. Even overtook a couple of slow cars on the way there! :Tdi :RHD
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Tonka and I were asked by the National Park Rangers to help another tourist stuck on the Forest Drive...
I ended up pulling at a much more acute angle, the ditch was deep, with almost vertical sides.
Belgian Tourists in a hire car...
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^^^ that's very good of you, Gene.
Makes you wonder how they got in that mess.
Shame the car's towing eye wasn't on the other side of the car. Would have given a better angle on the tow rope and made pulling the car out a bit easier.
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^^^ that's very good of you, Gene.
Makes you wonder how they got in that mess.
The driver was distracted by the scenery he said. I can believe it.
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The driver was distracted by the scenery he said. I can believe it.
He probably forgot about the extra 5 foot of car on his left :shakeinghead
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Got my 2a 88” moving under its own steam for the first time in a few months. 300tdi conversion - I was a bit shocked when it burst into life on the first turn of the key! I was hoping to get it finished for the club rally, but ended up taking the wolf instead. So I now have two 300tdi powered land rovers.
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After months of working away from home, finally made a start on (hopefully) the home run.
Trimming out the rear and fitting the four re-covered dickie seats.
Might get around to the headlining next week.
Only fourteen years since purchased.
Steve.
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Home after a great weekend camping by the Solway and laning in Cumbria/Northumberland with Phil and the "Borders" team ! A cracking weekend !
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Took her to Speech House for the FVVMC show. Lots of Landies, nothing much in the way of interesting old tools and bric a brac though.
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This morning got off the front cover/bearing of the 300tdi and this afternoon will be putting the new cover/bearing on.
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Pulsing brake pedal.
I don't know how much time I've spent trying to get the (Britpart) drums to centre on the hub. Treated the car to some new LOF drums, three screw holes, put them on and the brakes centred nicely. Test drive now to see what improvements.
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New and shiny
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Pulsing brake pedal.
What do you mean by "pulsing brake pedal"?
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The pedal goes up and down when braking. I had this on my Series 3 when cheap and nasty brake drums were fitted. Since genuine parts drums were fitted a few years ago the pedal pulses no more.
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Took a half day off, and blessed with midsummer sunshine and warmth. Drove to work (I only do this about twice a year), and it took twice as long as cycling. But I had to go to MachineMart to pick up an engine stand on the way.
Later had a very pleasant drive down to near the "Barony A Frame", near Cumnock, and purchased a 2.25 petrol with various ancillaries, from an interesting chap down there.
I didn't manage to find the serial number of the engine in the usual place, while I was there, but I found an "8" stamp on the head.
It is an ex military engine, so there is an oil cooler thing with it. I am not sure if I have to install the oil cooler, or if I can stub off its connections somehow and just run without it.
I am hoping to do as little as possible with this engine just now, except fix up the connections/manifolds/ancillaries to an at least temporarily acceptable standard, with the idea of swapping it in to my vehicle, so I can then get my tired 7:1 engine out and get it sorted properly. Then probably swap back? But plans may change.
I'll probably be back around with questions about how to deal with this "new engine", once I get it safely out of the tub so I can start tinkering with it.
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Upon trying to fit my new choke cable, realised that I have lost the bolt that secures it to my Solex. Did I put it somewhere safe or did I leave it hanging loose on the carb to fall off sometime during the last year that I have been running without a choke cable? Is it perhaps 2BA or would a Solex be metric? Some fiddling and measuring to do unless someone out there knows.
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Fixed an annoying issue with the vent flaps, found a broken split pin on the winding mechanism. All replaced and working smoothly. Now onto the replacement of the cat flap and tailgate rubbers.
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Fitted the best gear knob in the world, ever.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2yM1kvgf/AD858-D34-C7-BE-4289-88-F8-E80-C5-FB9-A690.jpg)
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Spent all morning getting the 8 bolts out of the 300tdi water pump they had been put in gorilla tight and I'm only an orangutan
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Fitted the best gear knob in the world, ever.
(https://i.postimg.cc/2yM1kvgf/AD858-D34-C7-BE-4289-88-F8-E80-C5-FB9-A690.jpg)
:-X :-X :-X That's brilliant! But where did you get it from?
David
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I am guessing that is a special from Sue at Charlesworth Mouldings.
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It is indeed from very clever Sue. :first
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It is indeed from very clever Sue. :first
Does she have a website? Is it something she made custome, or does she keep them on the shelf?
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Here you go.
https://www.charlesworthmouldings.co.uk/ (https://www.charlesworthmouldings.co.uk/)
Don’t think this one is on the website yet as I think I got the first one so give them a call.
It’s beautifully made in the same material as the original, the colour goes all the way through and the writing is cut with a fricking laser. And there’s lots of colour options.
:cheers
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It is indeed from very clever Sue. :first
I may be forced to get a mushroom style one. ..
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It is indeed from very clever Sue. :first
Thanks.
I had a look at all her products on display at Kernow Dreckly but did not see that. I did see another version with the chemical formula for aspirin on it, which made me laugh.
David
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Here you go.
https://www.charlesworthmouldings.co.uk/ (https://www.charlesworthmouldings.co.uk/)
Don’t think this one is on the website yet as I think I got the first one so give them a call.
It’s beautifully made in the same material as the original, the colour goes all the way through and the writing is cut with a fricking laser. And there’s lots of colour options.
:cheers
Thank you - appreciate it!! :tiphat
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I have just messaged via their website if they can do a mushroom one in black. I would definitely be in the market for one! Brilliant! :first
Paul
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Fired up from Glasgow to the West coast yesterday morning, in glorious sunshine, with (somehow) a full-breadth rainbow against a blue sky over Loch Lomond. Stopped at about 9AM for a fab triple-bacon roll and a cup of tea from the catering trailer at the top of "The rest".
Today, "unlaunched" a boat, using the front-mounted towball which makes it so easy to position the trailer down the ramp.
Then, later, set to work on the slow puncture that I seem to have picked up, somewhere on the way back from last weekend's borders camping meet. I ruled out the valve with an overnight test after a valve-change. Being away from home I only had my travelling tools with me, but it turns out that the 1947 Shelley 7WT jack is really good at breaking the bead. Its actually better than the big hydraulic bottle jack, because the little rectangular base of the Shelley can be placed right alongside the rim, pushing the bead right where it needs to be pushed. Still takes 10 minutes per side, but its doable. Then five minutes with the tyre levers to get the tube out.
I used grandmas ornamental water feature as a dunking pond for the tube, and found the offending bubbles/hole. It was tiny, so rather than use a whole spare new tube, I found a "big enough" patch in my cycle repair kit, and patched it. Couldn't find anything in the tyre, inside or outside, at the suspect location, although some piece of tiny wire could still be lurking in the rubber somewhere. Will shove the tube back in tomorrow and see how we go.
I've now ordered some bigger, more suitable 50mm Schrader tube patches to carry in my toolkit (plus some glue tubes). Only a few pounds, and they come in packs of !30! so I may be giving free gifts to anyone I meet soon. I can't see me using more than 5 in the next 5-10 years, with any luck!
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I use your method for breaking the bead with the "discovery" hydraulic jack that I carry in the land rover but for some reason I always do it under the rear crossmember. Breaking the bead usually involves a cup of tea whilst I wait for the physics to do its job
Peter
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Breaking a bead is just about the only useful function of a high lift jack in my opinion. That is aside from using it for everything apart from lifting a vehicle.
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Morning run back from Crinan to Glasgow in murky weather.
Spent the afternoon looking at this "new engine" which might be a temporary stand-in for me (a few posts back).
https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,11653.msg129634.html#msg129634 (https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,11653.msg129634.html#msg129634)
I managed to free-up and lightly grease the starter dog, and turned it over with some jump-leads from my working vehicle.
I managed to do a set of compression tests, with quite a variance across the 4 cylinders, although nothing suggesting a head gasket blown between 2 neighbouring cylinders.
I think it would start, but it might be worth looking at the head before bothering to put it in the vehicle.
I don't know when this engine last ran, although it still has oil in, and petrol in the filter bowl.
The oil pump must be working, because it started pumping oil everywhere through the oil cooler pipe, which wasn't connected.
I collected the oil in a can and cycled it back into the oil filler.
I have the oil cooler, but no intention of fitting it into my vehicle. Also, I seem to be missing some of the pipework, in particular pipe 41, and part 42 the thermometer.
https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,11556.msg125193.html#msg125193 (https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,11556.msg125193.html#msg125193)
I find these useful threads:
https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,9837.msg108216.html#msg108216 (https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,9837.msg108216.html#msg108216)
which suggests I can simply remove the housing between the block and the oil filter, OR, stub off its output with a standard sump plug, if I source one.
...
and
...
https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,4257.msg46761.html#msg46761 (https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,4257.msg46761.html#msg46761)
which suggests that I can stub off the return pipe to the sump with a spare 9/16 BSF (S2/2A wheel stud size) bolt/stud/nut.
So will try these things next ...
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I have just messaged via their website if they can do a mushroom one in black. I would definitely be in the market for one! Brilliant! :first
Paul
And had a response. S2 mushroom knobs now available on the website.
Paul
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Gearbox day... Finished another one.
Speedi Sleeves saved the day.
Lots of nice new shiny bits to replace this lot...
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Change hub seals. Refit all new brakes shoes
Some chat to the inner piece
(https://i.postimg.cc/4KQdbdPX/IMG-20220924-165933452.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/4KQdbdPX)
(https://i.postimg.cc/BLhnkVRy/IMG-20220924-180646258.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BLhnkVRy)
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If you pop the top spring the other way round the 'fat' bit will not foul the adjuster :tiphat
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This is how the top brake pull-off spring should be fitted - yours ^^^ needs reversing.
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/brakes_SWB_front_set_up.jpg)
:RHD
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And had a response. S2 mushroom knobs now available on the website.
Paul
Totally recommended. Did 500 miles in my wobbly knob equipped Series2 at the weekend and it added 10 mpg, increased the top speed and improved the whole gear changing experience into something like a scene from Fast and Furious.
Looks cool too.
:cheers
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If that is a rear brake, prop shaft to the right of the photo, damper at the front of the axle, then the brake retaining plate at the bottom of the two shoes is attached to the wrong brake shoe as well. It needs to be screwed onto the rear most brake shoe on all four corners.
Craig.
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Could be a problem on those shoes... I don"t see any holes for the retaining fixings. If you swap the shoes round, the adjuster pin will be in the wrong place. The holes for the trailing shoe anchor plate should be on the shoe which does not have the adjuster pin. What does it look like on the opposite hub?
Maybe drill and tap new fixing holes on the trailing shoe using the anchor retaining plate as a guide?
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A Half-Tonner doing some weight-lifting...
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I think I can beat that, but have no photo. I loaded up with 24 concrete blocks and some sand. By my calculation it was close to the 454Kg weight limit quoted in the spec sheet that someone posted here some time back. I was surprised that it still pulled well, was stable and didn't feel under braked. The springs were just about flat though, and the speed bumps in the town centre were a lot smoother.
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I loaded mine with a similar amount of bricks and sand, when the loading was finished the guy in charge said ' still room for a bale of hay and a sheep'
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Thanks for the brakes advice guys. I will correct my mistakes sorthy
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Kept getting notifications on mobile about movement in garage , it was this beast a bat , left doors open all day and most of evening hopefully it’s gone ..
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^^^^ Nah, it'll be back with 314 friends, looking for somewhere to spend the winter :-)
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Posted elsewhere, but this is my S2 at work today.
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A big thanks to Royal Mail. The "relief" postie was out here this morning with the normal post. Back again 2 hours later with a parcel for me - he thought it was parts for the Landrover ( it was) and "brought it out because we are on strike till Monday, I thought you'd need it".
:o :o :o :first
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Well yesterday but I forgot to post last night.
Having given the springs a good workout whilst green laning at the weekend I have given them a good dose of "Duck Oil". I will repeat a few times over the next few days.
I also ordered seals and gaskets in preparation for work on the rear axle to remove the excess play
Peter
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Another call-out to a stuck vehicle on the Forest Drive from the National Park Rangers. A German couple this time, had reversed one wheel into the ditch. A simple recovery job for Tonka and a bottle of Reisling for our Anniversary this weekend. ...and luckily the rain stopped for long enough to get the job done !
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Visitors to the National Park must often have a bemused smile when you rock up in a vintage land rover to rescue them. :RHD
Although I must ask, out of interest, what vehicles do the National Park Rangers use to need to call on you to rescue stranded motorists? Is it a lack of appropriate vehicle for towing them out thats the issue, or some health and safety ruling that they can't get involved?
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A nice little earner .... :breakdown truck
Meanwhile something more mundane ....
Having removed the 2 plugs from my rear diff, I fettled them up and painted.
They were in quite a state from PO butchering.
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Visitors to the National Park must often have a bemused smile when you rock up in a vintage land rover to rescue them. :RHD
Although I must ask, out of interest, what vehicles do the National Park Rangers use to need to call on you to rescue stranded motorists? Is it a lack of appropriate vehicle for towing them out thats the issue, or some health and safety ruling that they can't get involved?
They have several Ford Rangers and a couple of vans but are not allowed to do recovery for Insurance and "lack of training". The last person to call out a Recovery company waited hours and paid £250... Last year I recovered on of the Rangers, they had pulled over to allow a vehicle to pass and not noticed the ditch in the bracken !
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The lunacy of it all...
As far as I am aware, most of the "rangers" round here if using a 4x4, have to have undertaken winch and recovery training which I think is one level up from LANTRA 2. They too are not allowed to recover others - only self recovery... :thud
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I loaded mine with a similar amount of bricks and sand, when the loading was finished the guy in charge said ' still room for a bale of hay and a sheep'
Love that ^.
Or maybe a bag of cement and a dog?