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Main Section => Welcome to our virtual Pub Meeting ... => Topic started by: George P on July 12, 2021, 10:39:40 AM
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Hi All,
After finally getting the gearbox done and bolted back onto the engine, I am wondering if anyone can share any information on the Transmission Tie Rod? Its briefly mentioned in the Haynes manual but it doesn’t appear to be in the gearbox section of the parts book?
Does anyone have one fitted and is there a benefit in doing so?
I have attached a couple of pictures, it certainly wasn’t connected to anything when I removed the gearbox but it clearly has been at some point in the past as the rubber bush is pretty worn.
Cheers
George
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Hi ,
I fitted one onto my 109 station wagon 6 cylinder, as I found that there was movement of the engine and transmission on the over run. would also be useful in offroad conditions.
The parts required are available from PA Blanchards or Craddocks, below is what I paid for mine early this year
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Fitted as standard on my Lightweight. I assume its to reduce movement. Having not driven without it I can't say what difference it makes.
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Except for FC models [and possibly 1 Tons] it was very rarely fitted to civvie models -- in fact the bracket for the chassis end of the tie rod is not even on a standard chassis.
Most military spec. vehicles had them and the chassis bracket is standard on a military spec. chassis.
If your vehicle is going to have a normal life of relatively gentle use on mainly surfaced roads [and the vast majority of 'greenlanes' are included in this] with only the occasional foray into the wilds it is totally un-necessary in my view.
Its job is to restrict fore and aft movement of the engine/transmission lump in very extreme manoeuvres [such as dropping down a 30 degree slope and stopping suddenly when the bumper or rear crossmember hits the floor] which the horizontally bonded engine and gearbox mounts are not designed to do.
Going off at a slight tangent
People who raced these vehicles in cross country races back in the day would quite often remove the standard mounts and weld on fabricated captive bush type mounts such as the one pictured because of regular failure of the standard mounts in such circumstances.
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The part numbers are there in the optional items parts book or in the series 3 part book as it was a fitment for the 6 cylinder series 3's
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I'm with gvo416j R.I.P. on this one. Not required for normal civilian use. They were standard on most military variants with the removeable gearbox cross member. I have diligently restored the one fitted to my LWT, but for the occasional green lane foray, I suspect largely unnecessary.
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In the 61 parts manual it's part of the 8-bladed fan.
.W
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Cheers all, much appreciated.
I had suspected that it wasn't needed for normal use and its unlikely that I will be going to the off road extremes required for it to be of any use - well not on purpose anyway!
George
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Optional extra for the later 2As and S3s.
As posted, commonly found on MoD vehicles - my LWT has one too.
TBH, I'm not sure if they make any discernible difference, a lot would depend on the state of your engine and gearbox mounts.
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they were meant to be fitted to any land rover with an eight blade fan, my ex GPO land rover had one as they had 8 blade fans and were kitted out with governors and winches etc
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With the 8 blade fan and twin pulleys , I believe the fan is likely to be closer to the radiator , so the tie rod prevents the engine moving forward and clashing with the rad.
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All the above points are quite correct.
What the tie rod will also do is make your handbrake action slightly more positive, as it will prevent the mechanism moving the engine/gearbox assembly when applied. It will also go a little way to prevent the clutch judder that these vehicles are prone to.
The downside is a little more vibration transmitted into the vehicle.
I have one retrofitted to my 109” and, even if only of psychological/placebo benefit I think it’s a worthwhile addition.
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I'm a bit surprised that there is no tie rod to the engine to resist high twisting forces. Presumably the torque was never actually considered to be high enough to warrant one?
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My LHD sixpot has one. I have a standard Euro engine, civilian vehicle. There's no mention of it in the build ticket as a special option (like the "European headlamps", etc. that are listed). I thought it was a standard part ???
I don't know how it should be properly tightened, though. I just set the buffers up like the shock absorber rubbers: a bit tight so the rod can't turn, but not tight enough to split the rubber buffers open.
The drivetrain feels tighter when I lift the gas pedal than it does on my S1, which has no tie rod. I've rebuilt every piece of the drivetrain on each, except the main gearbox on the S1. So there could be some play in there, or it could be the effect of this tie rod.
Jeremy
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< The drivetrain feels tighter when I lift the gas pedal than it does on my S1, which has no tie rod. >
That's is exactly why I fitted it on my 6 cylinder 2a, driving without the tie rod fitted you could feel the drive train move , could also be the reason why it is shown as fitment on the 6 cylinder series 3's by Landrover, heavier prime mover, larger momentum but same petrol engine mounts.
Another option would be to fit the diesel engine mounts instead, but didnt want to do that
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Our 6 cyl Carawagon had a transmission tie rod fitted, but when I rebuilt it I did not refit it thinking it probably was not required. However, I found the engine and gearbox would move about quite noticeably when driving and also when applying the handbrake. I refitted the tie-rod and no more problems. The only other Land Rover I have had with a tie rod fitted was a Lightweight.
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Our 6 cyl Carawagon had a transmission tie rod fitted, but when I rebuilt it I did not refit it thinking it probably was not required. However, I found the engine and gearbox would move about quite noticeably when driving and also when applying the handbrake. I refitted the tie-rod and no more problems. The only other Land Rover I have had with a tie rod fitted was a Lightweight.
Cheers Jim and everyone else for the replies to this, its much appreciated.
I have ordered the bits I need from Blanchards which only amount to just over £20.00 (as I don't need the brackets) so I think I'll fit it in the first instance and see how I get on. I figured that its not much from a cost perspective and it will be easy to remove should I need to in the future.
George