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[Clive Speaks]

Hi all, I am wondering whether anyone else has had and resolved this issue? After a fortnight, the River Severne flooding has receeded enough for us to be able to drive out last night, do the shopping in Tewkesbury and drive back in again. Water is now only about 2 feet deep and I have driven through much deeper in the past but after about 1/4 of a mile of driving through the flood water, we started to kangeroo. This stopped again on leaving the water but happened again on the way back in. I am thinking that the secondary electric fuel pump mounted on the side of the main chassis rail could be the culprit? I am intending to smother the terminals with a hot glue gun and then vaseline on the outside of that, but could I be barking up the wrong tree?
Oh yes and no water spalshed up onto and uunder bonnet electrics.

Many thanks

Clive

[Formerlyjeremy]

I really doubt that river flood water which is not salt water would conduct anything like well enough to interfere with the operation of the electric (SU?) fuel pump.  The high tension electrics (Coil, plugs etc) will operate at 20,000 volts or so - with a very small current - and yes water is a good conductor at this voltage - but 12 volts - no.

High tension problems are the most likely - the 6 cylinder has those lovely recesses around the plugs - and the plug leads are often tightly bundled in a tube.  Early 80's with much the same engine with the 2 middle cylinders left out suffered form condensation inside the plug caps - the cure for which was to drill ventilation holes.

Remember a rapid drop in temperature (hot engine - cold water or cold air) will cause condensation - which may conduct high voltage electricity.

The fuel pump itself may not be happy when in contact with water.  As supplied the SU has a seal (tape) for the contacts cover on the top but I doubt if the terminal seals where it passes through the bakelite cover.  If water has got in there and the thing is sealed its unlikely to drain below the level of the terminal post.

[Wittsend]

If I were faced with frequent wading (flooding) for prolonged distances I would prepare the vehicle for wading.

It makes sense to site the fuel pump up high on the bulkhead - in the warm and dry. Maybe even converting to a RR type electronic pump
Water and electric don't mix regardless of the salty possibilities.

Fit high level, remote axle breathers and to the gearbox and transfer box.
Make sure the clutch actuation shaft gasket is in good order and fit the wading plug.

Inside the engine bay you can fit a water proof shield over the dizzy.
The other rubber glove trick won't work for you - unless you can find a Norfolk rubber glove 

Whilst you may only going in axle deep - you never know. It will only take a few seconds of deep water exposure for the fan to spray everything under the bonnet.

Consider fitting an electric fan with manual switch.

OR

Slip the fan belt so it won't splash water.

Make sure the 4 drain holes in each brake drum are clear and not blocked up.
And spray waxy oil into the chassis rails after the floods have receded.

Always carry a can of WD-40 with you.


 

[agg221]

The other rubber glove trick won't work for you - unless you can find a Norfolk rubber glove 

Mr Wittsend, you have just caused me much pain! I should be out milling today but did my back yesterday so am stuck on the sofa instead. That comment had me laughing co hard it pulled my back again 

[Clive Speaks]

If I were faced with frequent wading (flooding) for prolonged distances I would prepare the vehicle for wading.

It makes sense to site the fuel pump up high on the bulkhead - in the warm and dry. Maybe even converting to a RR type electronic pump
Water and electric don't mix regardless of the salty possibilities.

Fit high level, remote axle breathers and to the gearbox and transfer box.
Make sure the clutch actuation shaft gasket is in good order and fit the wading plug.

Inside the engine bay you can fit a water proof shield over the dizzy.
The other rubber glove trick won't work for you - unless you can find a Norfolk rubber glove 

Whilst you may only going in axle deep - you never know. It will only take a few seconds of deep water exposure for the fan to spray everything under the bonnet.

Consider fitting an electric fan with manual switch.

OR

Slip the fan belt so it won't splash water.

Make sure the 4 drain holes in each brake drum are clear and not blocked up.
And spray waxy oil into the chassis rails after the floods have receded.

Always carry a can of WD-40 with you.


 

Alan, I don't know about that Norfolk rubber glove  but some I could do with some Lincolnshire Yellow Belly webbed feet at the moment. 

I am looking at what I can do short term with what I have available at home, but thanks for the tips everyone

[rmgosling]

If I recall there is someone on the Forum/Club who does axle breathing kits: anyone able to remind me who 

Cheers

[Robin]

If I recall there is someone on the Forum/Club who does axle breathing kits: anyone able to remind me who 

Cheers

Might be me   

Here

Robin

[Calum]

When we went to Iceland last year getting stranded in the middle of a river due to wet electrics on my 6 pot was my biggest fear
The dizzy is actually quite well protected from water where it is so I didn't concentrate too much on that. My 2.6 has a Weslake head now and as such the coil sits right behind the fan at the front. For this I bought one of the rubber covers as found on Minis to protect it from water. I still have the metal fan although I do plan to change this for an electric one. Obviously slackening the fan belt is the best short term measure here. I have fitted HT leads with very tight fitting rubber caps on the plugs which seem to have cured any damp issues there (I think they were just standard ones from one of the usual suppliers). After sitting overnight in rain the rear plug hole sometimes has a puddle forming around it but still fires happily on 6.
I have a Facet pump fitted now, on the chassis rail as my original SU pump was and I had no problem that I could tell with water causing a problem there.
Raised breathers etc are good if you want to spend the money but the originals are absolutely fine if you make sure they are clear and the ball isn't corroded. We did just under 90 river crossings on our trip and a subsequent change of transmission oils found no water in there, with standard breathers. Most were only really as deep as the photo attached, but still above axle height.
Unless you go really deep I wouldn't bother with any further waterproofing or snorkel etc. The air intake with the oil bath is really quite high and unless you are going fast and getting lots of water on the wing tops (which runs straight into the filter housing!) It won't be a problem. If you are finding yourself wading through water as high as the wings I think I'd be finding an alternative route!