How to fit your new (heated) screens:-The job is best done flat on the kitchen table.
You need to check and make sure there are no raised bits or globs of galvanising that can press on a point on the glass.
Grind them flat. This will help stop the glass cracking if it's under strain from the alloy retaining strips.
I use a few of those foam packers/spacer that come with the screens to distance the glass off the bottom of the frame.
Or, you can use a few short strips of ¼" x ¼" balsa wood.
The spacers keep the glass from moving down under its own weight.
Each screen has a "common" bus top and bottom. Depending on your preference you can jiggle/position the screen so the silver foil bus is even top to bottom, or more to the top, or more to the bottom.
(Not sure if I've explained this very well. When you test fit the screens you'll see what I mean.)Back in the day we used DumDum - sadly no longer with us, but the odd tin does turn up on eBay - this stuff lasts for years
I think nowadays you can use a silicon mastic (
Silkaflex EBT) as used for gutters etc. It sets but still has a little give.
On the alloy retainers you should use the Land Rover rubber glazing strip (pn: 330914), it helps spread the load.
Screw the strips down evenly and don't gorilla tighten them down.
Keep the screen flat for a couple of days to let the sealant harden off properly before fitting the screen.
Use a model craft knife/razor blade to trim away any excess sealant that has oozed out of the from - particularly on the outside face of the screen.
Use a good glass cleaner - Windolene
to clean off any finger prints and use RainX treatment on the outside face of the screen to repel rainwater.
I've fitted 3 sets of screens like this and had no problems so far - touch wood.
Each screen draws about 8.5 amps.
I solder an earthing ring tag to the wire tail that exits the glass to the outside of the vehicle.
Here's one I did earlier:-
The 2 centre screen wire tails can be lead centrally down the back of the dash and it then depends if you are wiring/switching them separately or jointly and/or using Robin's timer relay system.