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[martinrh]

When I bought my 2A a few weeks ago, I was promised it would make every journey an adventure.
I certainly haven't been been disappointed!
A quick trip to the woods to walk the dog and pick up a load of wood, new hand throttle working well, perfect.
Then complete loss of brakes as I set off home.

It's not far so with careful use of the hand brake and engine braking we made it back in one piece.

The culprit was fairly obvious as fluid was dripping down the right read wheel.
After breaking one bar getting the wheel nuts off (I assume fitted by a Kwik fit gorilla) I found the friction material had completely come away from the shoe.
There was also a bit of the slave cylinder missing. (graphic pictures of damage attached)
So I have a mystery as to what happened.
Did the cylinder break first and the fluid dissolve whatever glue was holding the pad on, or did the pad came off and knock a bit of the cylinder, causing the leak?

Either way it must have been a rubbish pad, I'm sure pads used to be riveted on.

Anyway, new bits ordered and hopefully back on the road by the weekend for the next adventure!

[Wittsend]

New brake shoe pads are almost universally glued on with high strength industrial glues.

The old asbestos shoes were (copper) riveted on.
Asbestos is now banned.
But I believe you can get modern friction material pads and rivet them in place

I can't see any reason why you should not use modern, new brake shoes.
Currently Britpart shoes are performing well.

How did your adventure happen
Hard to say ...
I would forget that. Fit new parts to both sides of the axle and all should be well.


 

[martinrh]

I've ordered some rear Mintex pads which I hope will be fine.
It's strange I couldn't find the broken bit of slave cylinder, it could have been missing for a while I suppose.
Having single circuit brakes makes me think I should replace the front set in case they are starting to de-laminate too.

[Wittsend]

eeeeerrrrrr

Mintex are not thought to be the best buy at the moment 
Quite a few reports (on the old forum) that the adjusting pin comes lose and then falls off 

Britpart shoes are reported to be good 

The TRW or Delphi shoes are the best - but hard to source.


 

[Eve]

Those linings look very oily and the brake pipe isn't secured. Alarm bells ringing. I'd give the whole braking system a thorough going over.

[martinrh]

Ooops, should have checked the forum first, though I've only just joined so can't get at the old one :-)
Hi Eve, the linings were covered in fluid, the slave cylinder was damaged and it was pouring out.
You're right about the pipe not being secured, not sure what it should clip to? I'm considering getting a complete new set of pipes.

[nathanglasgow]

The pics of the brake installation maybe highlight the negitive aspects of the 40 year mot exemption?

[Wittsend]

Also a timely reminder that if a vehicle is new to you, worth spending a day jacking each wheel up and removing the drum(s) and inspect the condition of the brakes

You have no idea what a PO may have done or how long brake maintenance has been neglected. I doubt damage like that ^^^ happens in an instant.


 

[Bradfordseries2]

The pics of the brake installation maybe highlight the negitive aspects of the 40 year mot exemption?

I completely agree. I think it's a very bad idea not to have them inspected at least once a year for safety related failures. A lot of owners check their vehicles regularly for signs of impending failure. I would be very surprised if this has 'just' happened or if the wheel cylinder has been leaking for a while leading up to the complete failure of brakes. The brake pipe is completely unsecured along the axle case, looks to be copper as well which would soon work harden and fracture if left just dangling about like that. 

[Formerlyjeremy]

There should be a shield on each side of the back axle fixed between the springs and the axle - which besides keeping the check straps from damaging the brake pipes, holds the pipe clips.

I would suggest that on the acquisition of any ancient vehicle that all the brake drums are removed and the system checked thoroughly - do both pistons move freely, are the linings OK, are the shoes moving freely, are there any leaks etc.  All the flexy's should then be checked for damage, splits and perishing - as well as the pipes and the master cylinder.

If its been standing for a while its possible for the seals to rip when the pistons move due to rust in the cylinder bores - so an eye should be kept out for leakage and the master cylinder filled to a known point and its level frequently checked.  Any drop must be investigated as its evidence of leakage.

[Rambler]

These photos might help

[martinrh]

Thanks for the photos Rambler, a big help.
I agree about the inspection, but she does have a current MOT, and has been MOTed every year!
I checked all the (many) oil and fluid levels which were all fine.
The seller was helpful and genuine so I guess just bad luck, or he took it to a ropy garage?
The drums look almost new so I guess they have been replaced recently, there was even copperslip behind the wheel which I take as a good sign.
Anyway, I'll based on the comments, I'll replace all the brake pipework.

[w3526602]

Hi,

I once presented a car for it's MOT, with one rear brake not working .... possibly because I'd ... er ... bodged ... the hydraulic system to prevent loss of fluid. Remove pipe to rear wheel cylinder, insert small ball bearing, reconnect the pipe.

It puzzled the tester ... he told me to get it fixed before driving it again ... and gave it a pass. We had a good working relationship ... apart from the time I thought he was hammering my galv chassis. I hung upside down out the cab ... found he was giving his ramp a good laruping with a tyre iron ... just to worry me.

602

[Fluffle-Valve]

I had a pin drop out and jam it's self up in a shoe. Buy Britpart, Not Mintex.

[Peter Holden]

Me too.
The Britpart shoes and drums have been really good.

Peter