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[Tom]

The brackets for supporting the brake pipes on the axles can be found here:

Galvanised from YRM: https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rear-axle-brake-pipe-bracket-hot-dip-galvanised-series-land-rover-23/

Stainless from Bits4Landys: https://www.bits4landys.co.uk/series/axles/brakepipe-shields-nrc7314.htm
Although these are presently out of stock.

Worth getting the above over mild steel which dont last long at all. 

For brake pipes, the best kit I found to be Automec Brake Pipes. Made from Kunifer and come ready cut to length. I did try another company on eBay, who were cheaper than Automec, but the brake pipes were not long enough - and they didnt come with the brass fittings on the pipe so prone to seize. Automec do seem to be the correct length and well made.

Wheel cylinders - I would always suggest Lucas/Delphi. Had britpart ones many years ago, and had lots of problems. Perhaps they have improved. Lucas or Delphi for Master Cylinder too.

Shoes - Im happy with Britpart. Mintex used to be good, but lots of issues with adjuster pin falling off and causing problems recently.

For the rubber flexi hoses - Bripart is fine. Just appreciate that they are essentially service items and are worth replacing every 3/4 years or so - even if they look fine!

[Wittsend]

 

Just to add .... These days Britpart kit is pretty good now.
All the main suppliers offer OE standard - Delphi or TRW parts as well.
I would always use their master cylinders as opposed to the Britpart version, spend a few more £s. They are such a pain to replace.

If the vehicle is a keeper - seriously consider fitting s/s braided brake hoses and enjoy a very long service life.


 

[martinrh]

Thanks again to everyone.
I've gone for TRW cylinders, stainless guides and kunifer pipes.
I'll get some stainless flexi hoses.
Still pondering the Mintex shoes I've already bought.....

My main problem is justifying all the packages that are arriving at the house....

[Dormy]

Put all the joints/nuts, bleed nipples together with Copper Grease to prevent future corrosion/seizure problems. Also Red brake grease for under the wheel cylinder rubber boots. I don't use Copper Grease under the rubber boots because I find it drys out.

[Wittsend]

Put all the joints/nuts, bleed nipples together with Copper Grease to prevent future corrosion/seizure problems. Also Red brake grease for under the wheel cylinder rubber boots. I don't use Copper Grease under the rubber boots because I find it drys out.

Not a good idea to use copper grease on the outside of the piston in the brake cylinder bores, under the rubber dust cap 

Red brake grease is specially formulated for this job and is totally miscible with hydraulic fluid - copper grease isn't.


There's no excuse for any long term Land Rover owner not to have tub of red brake grease on their shelves - it's cheap enough.



Order yours today ...


 

[Robin]

As Alan & Ian say ^^^^^ use red rubber grease under the dust caps of cylinders - especially if it's not a daily drive, as it can prevent corrosion and sticking pistons.

I'm restoring a Dormobile which was restored by a garage about 8-9 years ago. The garage fitted brand new cylinders all round, but then vehicle then stood in a yard, unused, until I saved it a couple of years ago.
Almost every brake cylinder was siezed, with corrosion on the pistons and inside the bores.
They were so bad I couldn't clean them up or hone the bores - some of them I couldn't even get the pistons out, they were so solid.

I replaced all of the cylinders, smearing red rubber grease inside the bores, on the pistons and plenty under the rubber boots as I knew it might be left another couple of years while I got on with other restorations.

Of course, a regularly used vehicle will usually be ok without the grease, as regular braking will keep the pistons moving - usually.

Robin.

[Bradley66]

Red Rubber Grease isn't just for use on breaking systems .
 
A quote from some literature I have on the subject :

"Here is a comprehensive list of RRG properties:
•Fully compatible with natural and synthetic rubbers
•Compatible with brake fluids and some hydraulic oils.

•Rust inhibitor (protects from oxidation and rust).

•RRG is water resistant.

•Hight temperarure. The grease can be used in applications with temperatures up to 210-230F. It will not melt and will not contaminate brake pads.

•Petrol resistant. Although it will get contaminated in contact with gasoline, but still it will protect rubber parts from it.

•High chemical and structural(mechanical) stability.

•High resistance against water washing (will stay on after a rain, or car wash).

•Has high wear protecting quality.

In other words, RRG can be used for lubrication where there is rubber and there is no gasoline: o-rings, non-petroleum oil and dust seals, dust boots, bushings. "

[Worf]

I know not everyone agrees, but if you are fitting a completely new braking system, I would use silicon brake fluid every time. No more internal (or external!) corrosion problems and no need to change the fluid regularly. I rebuilt my Series One over 25 years ago using silicon fluid. Not had to replace any seals since. Still the same fluid (apart from some loss when renewing flexy pipes ). More expensive, but if you have bought a "keeper", it soon pays for itself.

[Wittsend]

Red Rubber Grease isn't just for use on breaking systems .
 
A quote from some literature I have on the subject :

"Here is a comprehensive list of RRG properties:
•Fully compatible with natural and synthetic rubbers
•Compatible with brake fluids and some hydraulic oils.

•Rust inhibitor (protects from oxidation and rust).

•RRG is water resistant.

•Hight temperarure. The grease can be used in applications with temperatures up to 210-230F. It will not melt and will not contaminate brake pads.

•Petrol resistant. Although it will get contaminated in contact with gasoline, but still it will protect rubber parts from it.

•High chemical and structural(mechanical) stability.

•High resistance against water washing (will stay on after a rain, or car wash).

•Has high wear protecting quality.

In other words, RRG can be used for lubrication where there is rubber and there is no gasoline: o-rings, non-petroleum oil and dust seals, dust boots, bushings. "

Even more reason to buy a tub 

I know not everyone agrees, but if you are fitting a completely new braking system, I would use silicon brake fluid every time. No more internal (or external!) corrosion problems and no need to change the fluid regularly. I rebuilt my Series One over 25 years ago using silicon fluid. Not had to replace any seals since. Still the same fluid (apart from some loss when renewing flexy pipes ). More expensive, but if you have bought a "keeper", it soon pays for itself.

Quite agree ...

For anyone undertaking a complete restoration of the braking (and clutch) system then using silicon fluid from the off makes perfect sense 

 
Please note  using silicon hydraulic fluid does not absolve you from using red brake grease.
You still need to protect the bores on the outside of the pistons from water/crud/grit.


 

[Bradley66]

I should of course , proof read my post and replaced breaking with braking !!

[Roger]

A word of caution on silicone brake fluid - I have suffered a severe loss of braking ability twice on two cars, a Healey 3000 and a TR4A, about 15yrs ago, which was put down to silicone fluid.  Luckily no-one was hurt and I managed to miss the rear of the 300SL Gullwing in front of me...
Both cars had their systems built up from new with silicone fluid and new components, and both incidents happened within a couple of years of restoration.  After sitting for around 20 minutes both cars' systems were working normally again, but on return to the workshop both were put back to DOT4 pretty quickly.  Both were disc front, drum rear, and being used hard (although not on-track) - but a Series is a much heavier vehicle and drums are known to fade more easily than discs....
You pays yer money and takes yer choice!

[w3526602]

There's no excuse for any long term Land Rover owner not to have tub of red brake grease on their shelves - it's cheap enough.

Hi Alan,

Pretty please ... can I go sort of OT?

Summer of 1967 ... Barbara and I, and a 6-month foetus, flew home from Singapore ... 26 hours in a Bristol Britannia turbo-prop "troop-ship" ... (extra row of seats ...luckily, our third seat was occupied by an off-duty stewardess) We stayed the first couple of days with my parents in Croydon ... bought a 1961 Singer Gazelle convertible for £100. I wish I had it now. I had to do a bit of work on it before driving it to Barbara's parent's, in Swansea.

Job done, I asked my father if he had any Swarfega. "Tin in the shed", he told me. I found the tin, proudly bearing the brand name, but the contents looked and felt different from anything I'd met. "Maybe it's industrial quality, liberated from Metal Propeller Ltd, who made the props for the airship that crashed in France (Can't remember if it was the R100, or the R101). It felt different , too, but I rubbed it well in. Then I tried to wash it off. In fact, I tried very hard to wash it off. My father explained that that particular tin contained WATER PUMP GREASE. Why does a pensioner, living in Croydon, want 7 pounds of water pump grease?

Just one "Oops!" in the life of 602.

602 (Try to make people smile)

[w3526602]

Hi,

Referring back to the opening mail (After breaking one bar getting the wheel nuts off ... I assume fitted by a Kwik fit gorilla), do a Google for "Checking wheel nuts". (I think the are called LUG nuts the other side of the Big Water".)

Your tyre fitter should have told you to check the torque on the wheel nuts after 20 minutes driving. I think it's called "Passing the Buck".

602

[Youngun]

On a related note, anyone had trouble with Delphi master cylinders recently?

The brake pedal on my single circuit system went solid recently, if I literally stood on the pedal the rear wheels would lock but the fronts would still turn.

I replaced the whole system except the long pipe running to the rear axle and the distribution block.

Normal braking has now resumed 

BUT

Just two weeks on the master cylinder looks... Well, see the last picture   

Neal

[Bradley66]

" Just two weeks on the master cylinder looks... Well, see the last picture   

Neal "

Rusty ? Any un-coated iron or steel will do that .  Paint it before assembly.