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[Roverscotty]

Thank you, gentlemen, autorover 1, so are we saying we believe that the block is from the early 70?

Thank you Gene,

Thx

Scotty

[autorover1]

I cannot say it is from the 1970's , only I know blocks were made at that time.  The 5 bearing crank appeared in 1980 so has to be before that. The Foundry closed in 2005. There may be a date code cast on the block , but you need to know the Code

[GHOBHW]

I have a bilchrome block, date stamped 22-11-63. so they were making them before too

but the flywheel housing cover looks to be the later type, not that it changes much as its 8 or so bolts to go on or off...

pretty hard to be 100% on the year with no date or proper engine stamp. but things didn't change too much.

you can probably put all your old bits onto the new engine for looks wise and noone would ever notice if it was a later block.

[Tom]

My 1962 block is also stamped bilchrome, but my 1960 and 59 ones I think were CBS?

[Andy P]

Welcome to the Club Scot. Your Series 2 looks lovely and I love that colour and patina, it has aged well. Would you keep it like that? Andy

[Roverscotty]

Great information guys thank you all very much.

Andy, I'm really not the patina type guy. If I don't paint the wagon my wife will never get in. Wait a minute,  hmmmmm..
I didn't really think this through. :)

GHOBHW,

I like your thought of putting my 63 parts from the original block on the replacement.

Thank you

[Roverscotty]

I received great news today, my replacement engine & head have no cracks!   

[Larry S.]

I received great news today, my replacement engine & head have no cracks!   

Welcome!

And great news!!

[diffwhine]

That is great news. A cracked head and finding a replacement here is bad enough!

[Roverscotty]

Could not agree more diffwhine, I was fortunate to be able to purchase a complete engine in the area with known history for $650.00..

THANK YOU LORD!

[diffwhine]

Keep us posted on how you are getting on. If any help is required, I'm always for California trip although my wife may not appreciate any time spent on Land Rovers. Last time I was there, I got accosted by one of the LA JLR dealers and spent three days of my holiday sorting out a customer crisis for JLR NA... They did pay me for it, so can't complain!

[w3526602]

Hi,

My mate Bill, in the Swansea Valley used to run a Ford Thames 15cwt van. When he tried to register it in his name, he was asked for the chassis number. He took the easy option, and invented a number, which saved him the bus fare home and back again.

Years passed, and DVLC invented "VED EXEMPTION". Great .... provided your vehicle complied with DVLC's "BIG BOOK OF STAMPED NUMBERS" (I've only ever seen one copy of that book). He seemed to have got over that hurdle, but I don't know how.

Over the years, Bill replaced the 1700cc (?) Consul based engine with a 2553cc Zodiac engine (from which he claimed 100mph. Hmmmm!), and hacked of the back half of the body, and replaced if with a huge aluminium "biscuit tin".

Only a few years ago, a then member (maybe still), living in the Swansea Valley, took a photo of this van, which I believe has been retired, and replaced with a Matchless and sidecar.

602

[Roverscotty]

Thank you all for the replies. I do have a question kinda silly but hey if ya don't know ya don't know.

Question: Should I primer the engine prior to putting the color on it? I've done this both ways and the block without the primer and only the color really seems to have adhered really well. The block I did primer first has poor adhesion.

I cleaned both blocks to the metal. Block 1 thoroughly cleaned the engine, painted outside color only (VHT paint) 2 coats 15 minutes between coats 80 degrees weather, 30 days ago.

Block 2, thoroughly cleaned the engine, painted with VHT primer, 15 minutes between coats 2 coats 80 degree weather. Allowed to dry over night 24 hours.
Day 2 painted with color VHT, 2 coats 80 degree weather allowed 15 minutes between coats 24 hour drying time. Paint color only scratches with my finger nail.

Any input would be much appreciated.

Thank you

Scott