S2C Forum Archives
Main Section => Welcome to our virtual Pub Meeting ... => Topic started by: Wittsend on February 29, 2020, 11:38:05 PM
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Pinch punch ... new month ... anything ???
:yorkshire tea
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Found my nasty knocking noise...
>:(
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Hoooo .... :agh
But how did that happen?
I see that it is a 5B
My condolences. :'(
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My 1960 S2 is 60 years old today. :-* well, 60 years from first registration, build date was around a week previous.
Unfortunately, I am unable to take it for a birthday run around due to the starting issues, but hopefully I’ll have a handle on that in the next few days :cheers
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but hopefully I’ll have a handle on that in the next few days
Haha, I see what you did there ! :-X
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Haha, I see what you did there ! :-X
;) :RHD
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New frame and hood for Mr Tidy....
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I have swapped my swb rims with 600 x16 tyres for lwb rims with 205r16. I don't like the look but what a incredible difference to noise levels and driving experience.
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Started Wombat's camper refurb with an oak floor and pullout bed. Still some way to go!
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Got mine out of the garage, looked like rain so put it away before it could get wet ,
Chris
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Hoooo .... :agh
But how did that happen?
I see that it is a 5B
My condolences. :'(
Its been ground .020" undersize in the past, but been done really badly, with no radius on the journal.
Was a failure waiting to happen. I just regret not looking at the bottom end before fitting it!
Andrew
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Well yesterday really. Joined the Welsh lads for a jaunt around South Wales, flooded roads etc. 160 miles round trip for me.
No-one broke down! In fact the bonnets weren't even raised.
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And on Saturday I found where an annoying leak in the hard-top was coming from.
I've been getting water on the inside of the hard-top - in the ledge. This would drip onto my leg. I thought it was coming in the front, but then noticed when I was checking things over, the rear corner of the hard-top was constantly wet. A bit of examination - I blew some compressed air through the corner. And what did I find? A hole! Pictures for reference. Filled with sealant.
Yesterday was spent in rain and sun, today I checked - dry!
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Changed the track rod end boot for the trackrod that is connected to the bottom relay arm. Took all of 10 minutes and i took the opportunity to grease them all.
Peter
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Fitted the hard top as it’s now autumn and the rain has already started
I must admit the car is a lot quieter without it.....hmmm may be I need a canvas tilt :RHD
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Whipped off my Weber 34ICH after work and stripped it down for a clean. Engine kept cutting out when stopping at junctions - as it did last winter too. All the symptoms pointed to a blocked idle jet. Didn't find anything in particular or obviously clogged passages, except someone had used red gasket glue on it at some point and some of this red sludge was lodged in the bottom of the chamber which can't have been helping. I found that a syringe of clear petrol was quite good for forcing petrol through the passages, and making sure it came out of the appropriate places. Probably the big split in the rubber vacuum advance pipe wasn't helping either :-[ - I should have spotted that last week! Replaced the rubber vacuum mixture diaphragm because I had a new one in the refub. kit and it seemed like a decent idea. I even used a new gasket when reassembling it (without red gunge). Will find out if I made any improvement when I get it put back on tomorrow.
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Took YOD out for a ride to meet Chris Gregson former deputy VRO at the pub for lunch.
Peter
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A fine Barnful of Lode Lane products there on the River Bemm :tiphat
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Pushed it from one shed to another!
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In fine style! :first
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Started the removal of the engine and gearbox from Buddy ready for the return of the refurbed ones.... good excuse to finish painting the bits I could not get to before and also sort the tatty seat box
Unfortunately rain stopped play so the heavy lifting will be tomorrow morning hopefully....
Lucy
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Fitted new exhaust sections (mid section and damper) today, and applied a smear of sealant between the flanges to make certain that they seal. The car sounds a lot quieter now and there is no occasional "pop" anymore :first
:tiphat
Davy,,
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Got the SU Conversion fitted and basic setup complete road test toommorow
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Hi,.
I thought about it.
602
Some days I sits and thinks.
And some days I just sits.
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Tried the route out for the forthcoming North West meet up at the Lakeland Motor Mueseum. A nice round trip of 135mile. Mixed weather on the way up. Nice and sunny on the way down. Some roads flooded across and lots of fields still got flood water on.
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Heavy lifting with the mini digger worked - engine and gearbox out (not in one piece) might have found the underlying engine issue as well - always had a horrible shudder which went right through the vehicle (and passengers)
Found the crank had loads of play on it so now feel better about justifying the unit swap
Lucy
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Got a message from the National Park Rangers about a stuck tourist so headed off in Tonka to pull them out. As I was driving up there it became obvious that the clutch was just starting to slip a bit.... headed back home, got the 90 and pulled the little SEAT out of the ditch.... Luckily for them , no damage. I was concerned they'd have mangled the sump.
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Shame you didn't have time for photos of that ^ Gene.
Would have been quite a sight.
And some of us like pictures of coilers...... ;)
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^^^ Sadly the Forum has an issue with pics tonight. I did get a pic but only after the SEAT had departed. Its a nice picture of a ditch tho :-)
Edit to say... here tis. Nice scrape mark from his sump.
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After my broken crank issue, some progress on FUDs new engine. Hopefully ready to fit by Friday.
Andrew
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^^^^ Looks beautiful !
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Too good to put in your land rover Andrew, it needs to be on a stand in your lounge (but dont let folk put coffee mugs on it)
Peter
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We've been out panic buying ...
Filled up with diesel - chances are they are going to hike the tax up this week, more so as the pump prices have hit rock bottom.
(How convenient :shakeinghead )
Bought a *&%^$ load of toilet rolls (excuse my French).
Also bought loads of pasta, Parma ham and some pizzas (funny, as these items all come from Italy :thud )
Also bought a load of baked beans, which don't.
... 2 year's supply of 1st class stamps - the prices go up on the 23rd.
:essen
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Why will you need stamps if the world is coming to an end ( again!)... :-X
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Ah, good point - there is never any logic to panic buying :shakeinghead
Just in case civilisation doesn't end, people may want to write letters.
(Our younger readers may not know what letters are :stars )
Stamps can be used as currency as it's claimed that this virus can be transmitted on bank notes :agh
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Ha! So you can get the galloping plague from paper money but not from paper stamps!.. :-X
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Unlikely - think about it ... :nursey
Anyone done anything else with a Series 2 Land Rover ???
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Toylander is coming on!
Got it on its wheels today. Just the brakes and wiring to do and she will be ready for the road!
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^^^^ Looks beautiful !
Too good to put in your land rover Andrew, it needs to be on a stand in your lounge (but dont let folk put coffee mugs on it)
Peter
Thanks, but I promise it looks better in the pictures than in real life! I wouldn't normally have bothered painting on an urgent rebuild like this, but the block and head had already been hot tanked, so it was pretty much spotless.
Andrew
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Not mine, yet, but went for another look at a 1968 88" which has been sitting for about thirty years. It's not as bad as it could be, bulkhead is pretty good but some *&%^$ has nicked the dash and heater from it.
I can't post pictures as they are on my phone, but it could be straight from a Pete Wilford painting!.
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So thought it was about time I had a look at the cause of the wee chuffing noise from the exhaust. Been doing it for the last 6 years since I rebuilt it onto a new chassis. Comprehensive rebuild but did not have the head off. I think I always new it was going to be cracked valve >:D
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Got round to putting my series 2 Club sticker in the quarter light of the truck cab
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Loading everything!!! After months of preparation going to the south of Argentina for vacation for 10 days country side life
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Got round to putting my series 2 Club sticker in the quarter light of the truck cab
Its these big jobs that take the most planning and preparation....
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Got round to putting my series 2 Club sticker in the quarter light of the truck cab
I’ve got one of those too :cool
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Went out to panic buy some more toilet rolls, sadly I failed.
More sadly I came across some fly tipping near to Pig city.
Now reported to the council.
(Councils should realise it's their policies at the tips that encourage this :shakeinghead )
....and a forest has been felled in preparation for the extension to the Norwich Northern Ring Road.
All you can see down the hill was a forest/wood/plantation :timber
Looks like my favourite green lane is going to be compromised.
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Toilet rolls in short supply Alan, you might have to think about newspaper squares.
Peter
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I think I have enough to last till the end of the year now!
:wooly-jumper
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;)
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We've even seen fighting breaking out over the last sheet music to "Happy Birthday" :shakeinghead
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Old paperback books would make excellent toilet paper usually 200ish pages/sheets... ;)
I heard a great story today...in the latter days of WW2, everything in short supply, the Russians at the gates.. Hitler was ordering the giving away free copies of mein kampf to anyone, presumably from your local nazi party office, apparently these were very popular, and folk would ask for ten copies at a time...you now know why.. :-X
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Ordered parts to replace the slipping clutch. Might need it if this continues...
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I've just panic bought one of these everlasting automated toilet rolls. :agh
(https://www.polishingjewellery.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2019/06/taper-polishing-mop.jpg)
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In process of swapping over gearbox’s and got as far as checking fork and push bearing before fitting to find the fork C-clip missing , I searched the floor ,tubs ,boxes ,rubbish boxes and only found stuff I forgot I had so one gear box left sitting next to landy awaiting delivery of new clip , it’s probably one of the smallest but crucial items to stop you from continuing and before anyone says take one of old box my answer is nope it’s a series two type coming out and a s3 going in so totally different.
But all us not lost as this happened day ago and ordered before 10:30am of eBay to have arrive in post next day one new blue plastic pack containing 5 parts including the C-clip needed so fitting of gearbox can go ahead quicker than I expected.
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Replaced cracked/burnt valve and gave head a good decoke whilst it was on the bench. A good valve lapping session was then had. The seat from the offending valve is beginning to suffer from valve seat recession, strange as the others are fine. Suffered the usual collateral damage when taking the head off and stripping. Exhaust manifold studs sheared, same with thermostat bolts. No biggie as all pre ordered in anticipation. New seals and gaskets fitted, drain and change oil and coolant. Happy as the blue cloud on start up has gone and I've just seen 73mph indicated. Previous was about 65mph indicated. I know the speedo over reads so in reality it's a real 65mph ish. Makes a hellava rack tho at maximum revolutions
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Installed the demisters that I made over the last couple of weeks only for the heater to spring a leak... :thud
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Having fitted one new rangemaster onto a cleaned and painted rim succussfully using tyre levers, I am now attempting to get my 25-year old 7.5x16s off the other rims and clean/replace. I am on the first one.
Struggled for ages attempting to break the bead, using hydraulic jack (lifting the whole front of the vehicle on it), and driving over it several times. Not very successful. I'd had the tube valve out, and realised that the tube was bonded to the tyre. So, I went into the homebrew cupboard and found a tube and diameter-adaptor. Fitted it between my carb vacuum pipe and the TR15 valve and ran the engine a few minutes. Sucked the tyre down to a pancake shape, and shoved the valve cap back on quickly. The next jacking attempt popped the tyre straight off. I might use that method again!
Tyre is now half off and tube out (and quite a lot of crusty rust), but I am stuck trying to get the tyre completely right off the rim. Can't get the right angle with the levers to get the second bead over the edge over more than about a 5-inch distance. Hmmm. Sleep on it.
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Went on a 60 mile round trip to the fighting cocks for a new forest meet, a bit quiet, I may have got the time/date wrong or people could be sheltering from the flu?
Landy was running well though, got up to 60 at one point, and met a nice chap called Robin who has a series 2a in bits
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Used my carb-vacuum technique to bead-brake another two 25-year old 7.5x16s off their rims. It really works. Just suck out the air by running the engine a couple of mins, and then a couple of goes with the hydraulic jack under the front bumper with a couple of bits of wood and it breaks really easily.
Succeeded in getting 3 25-year old tyres off their rims, after finding the technique with the 2x 20" levers, and a bit of wood, and a lump hammer. Now I've a done a few, the tyre lever thing really isn't a big deal. Definitely do-able at home.
Gave all three old rims a go with the "wire brush" drill attachment, and slapped on hammerite over the inside. Ready to install the 3 remaining Rangemasters perhaps next weekend. Vehicle is now sat on 1xRangemaster radial 7x16, 1x old cross-ply 7x16, 1x even older (but looks brand new!) remould cross-ply 6.5x16, and 1 axle stand. I don't think I'm going anywhere till I get the three finished!
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Washed the worst of the mud off and put Tonka in the shed preparatory to getting the floor and seatbox out to replace the clutch. The base of the original battery box ( FFR so battery box is where the centre seat would normally be) is rotten so needs replaced, I've an "under-seat tool box" tray from YRM that I'm planning to fit in its place. From measurements the flanges of the YRM item are not as wide as the original but I'm hoping I can cut away the old box and drop the new item onto the existing flanges.
It'll be interesting to see what state the bottom of that original base is in, the PO replaced it with a sheet of laminated chipboard....
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Gene, if the battery carrier is the same as a standard 2a FFR I have a spare in decent condition if you're interested?.
Matt.
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I suspect it is - I'll get some measurements tomorrow ?
If so the tool-box can go towards the Ambulance camper...
:tiphat
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Received a parcel from the postman
Refurbished head and gasket set
Andrew
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Went on a 60 mile round trip to the fighting cocks for a new forest meet, a bit quiet, I may have got the time/date wrong or people could be sheltering from the flu?
Landy was running well though, got up to 60 at one point, and met a nice chap called Robin who has a series 2a in bits
Sorry - was hoping to go, but daughter's flight home from skiing was delayed so never got the chance.
Andrew
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went out for a run in the sunshine to run some errands - and it stopped (broke down) about a mile from home.
Fortunately my daughter is at home atm so enrolled her as driver whilst i towed it home.
Her first time behind the wheel of the landy and first time as a towee ... great job & home safe.
Now just to figure out why it stopped (and no, it wasn't out of fuel :) )
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Sorry - was hoping to go, but daughter's flight home from skiing was delayed so never got the chance.
Andrew
No problem, I enjoyed the drive and I least I didn't get the venue/time wrong :cool
Hope your daughter got home safely and your refurbished head goes on well. Out of interest, what did you have done to it?
Martin
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I've had the ACR Stage 1, so gas-flowed but left at 8:1.
The real main thing was to get all the valves and seals overhauled.
Hopefully will be done by the next pub meet.
Andrew
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Floor plates and gearbox tunnel out. Lots of old sealant and several M6 bolts replacing proper Acme bolts - cut the interlopers off with the magic spark generator. No major drama - but an interesting PO Bodge. He's cut the panel that joins the gearbox tunnel to the bulkhead in half at the top, so it slides in from either side under the heater. Makes it easier to remove /replace without disturbing the ( Smiths flat) heater I suppose.
Working tomorrow but seatbox to come out on Weds I hope :-)
Note too the clever MoD gearbox filler, (carried over from the S1 I think ?) just a cap on top of the gearbox, held in place with a sprung piece of steel, accessible via a rubber bung on top of the gearbox tunnel.
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My gearbox is like that too, so easy to deal with, why they ever went over to the daft idea of filling thru the side level plug 'ole.. :shakeinghead
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To save money!
What else ... ???
No removable top on the gear box, no gearbox dip stick. No hole in the centre floor cover, no grommet to fill the hole.
... etc. etc.
:wooly-jumper
Meanwhile the refurb of my diesel head is progressing nicely.
Each of the hot spots has these little stress cracks, perfectly acceptable.
Got the valve guides out easy enough with the right drift and big hammer.
:RHD
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Enjoying the few extra HP after overhauling c/head last week so thought best do a complete service (engine oil/filter and coolant changed when head off) and check all oil levels. All fine apart from gearbox. Took 700mls. Thing is I changed all the oils 2 years and 4000 miles ago but can't remember checking them since. Need to keep a closer eye on levels!
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Well, yesterday after work... popped the 3 remaining (out of four) Rangermasters onto scrubbed and hammerited rims, using the 20" tyre levers. No bother getting new tyres on now I have the knack. Quick spin round the block. No sign of wobble or anything untowards. Very quiet compared to my old cross-plys. I am wondering what the recommended pressure is for these Rangermasters. The sidewall says maximum load at 450kPA, but that would be ~4.5 bar, or 4.5 * 15 psi, 65-70 psi. That's too high, surely? I would default to ~30psi as that's what I always used to put in. Maybe a bit higher for a motorway run. Who would ever pump one of these up to 4.5 bar?
Next job... a big hole for a small additional monoblock section, new Jones' front spring to hopefully drop my front end 2 inches back to the correct ride height there... and some other new springs to bring the back end up a bit and a bit stiffer there.
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FWIW I'm running my Rangemasters with 27/28 in the fronts and 30 ish in the rears.
If towing or loaded up I generally put an extra 2 or 3 psi in the rears.
:RHD
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Some puncture repairers whack these up to a very high pressure to find the leak
I think the manufacturers are saying no more than 70psi equivalent even for that short duration
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What’s the ply rating, or that new-fangled load rating? (Max load may also be marked). Probably ok for heavier vehicles at the greater pressure.
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The tyre wall says:
112/110N 7.50R16 C
Sidewall plies 2 rayon
Tread plies 2 steel 2 rayon
Radial DOT ATWY
Tube Type
8 Ply Rating
Load Range D
Max Load Single 1120 kg at 450 kPa cold
Max Load Dual 1050 kg at 450 kPa cold
This website has a "load range" chart which suggest that the 8 ply rating puts it into "Load range D" and that 65 psi is a standard maximum pressure that the tyre is meant to be able to survive:
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=55 (https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=55)
Sounds like ~28 in the front and ~30(+) load-dependent in the rear is probably right.
Thanks!
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Sounds like ~28 in the front and ~30(+) load-dependent in the rear is probably right.
I run my Rangemasters at 30psi front & 35psi rear. Dormy seems comfortable (?) at that but I must do the chalk test sometime.
Dormy
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The tire only indicates the maximum pressure, when it is subjected to the maximum load.
The amount of pressure is directly linked to the load that each wheel will support. The chalk test is ideal, or the good advice of someone with experience like Alan. regards
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Today I have been knocking off damaged filler from the bottom of tub wings, putting new backing plates on, ready for some new filler (!), it's looking good.
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Checked and topped up the steering relay with oil. I have no idea when I last checked it, but it's certainly not this century. I might have checked it when I did a rear 1/4 chassis rebuild around 1995. If not then I might have checked it during an earlier rebuild to replace outriggers around 1983.
What amazed me was that it only needed 10cc to top it up! They don't make 'em like they used to.
David.
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Replaced the gauze in both breathers
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Bear in mind I'm running a SWB diesel.
Dormy is a LWB Dormobile with all the camping kit in the back and so will benefit from a little more air.
You WILL have a very bouncy ride if you inflate to the maximum manufacturers pressure :shakeinghead
That is not what you should be using as your guide to psi's.
Land Rover themselves recommend 25 psi front and rear for a SWB and an increase in the rears to 30 psi for LWB models.
That should be your starting point.
The chalk test is one thing - better is to drive the vehicle and see how it behaves on various road surfaces and in wet conditions.
There is nothing to stop you from experimenting a little - to find pressures which suit you and your vehicle.
:-\
Remember ...
Should you be involved in an accident and they find that under or over inflated tyres caused the accident then you are in deep trouble.
:RHD
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Got fed up with painting axle components, so had a little tidy up in the garden.
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Setting fire to it is a bit drastic ...
:fire
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Fix this auxiliary lights they are always become loose after some months
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Finally fitted the washers on the front shackles as iv got poly bush fitted.
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Moved my 58 and fc to a new resting place.
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Pic
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For the first time in years Dennis is receiving some attention. He could be back on the road this summer....
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Rivet rivet rivet .... seat box repaired and chassis painted where I could not get to with the engine still in
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Setting fire to it is a bit drastic ...
:fire
There are times we've all felt like that, I'm sure.
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I discovered that there's a difference between early and late sump pans.
When I got the 5MB engine that's in the 88" now, the sump was a bit dented. "That's no problem" I thought, I'll use the undamaged sump from the scrap 3MB engine.
Now I know why I've never got a consistent oil level reading - the dipstick was sometimes missing the hole and going off sideways.
I've now enlarged the hole and got a new (straight) dipstick and tube.
Andrew
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Not specifically today but got a new carburettor on my 109 this weekend.
That made things considerably better, as the original was a Zenith I hadn't managed to get the warp out of despite my best efforts. A new Weber settled it right down and wasn't hellishly expensive.
One thing I did note was a lot of slop in the linkage rods - think they're likely well past their sell-by. Going to need to make a new set, and might end up silver-soldering bronze bushes into the linkage ends if need be to correct for oval holes (as the actress said to the bishop).
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My cylinder head refurb is coming on nicely.
New valve guides are in the freezer ready for fitting tomorrow.
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My cylinder head refurb is coming on nicely.
New valve guides are in the freezer ready for fitting tomorrow.
Brave man in so many ways !
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That's a big tub of Dreamies Mr W...
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Well yesterday but finally completed my engine temp gauge installation.
I wanted an electrical temperature gauge for my positive earth 2A, nice if it looked period.
It was surprisingly difficult.
Anyway, a sunbeam alpine period Jaeger gauge, a classic range rover temp sender, a thread adaptor, bit of old cooker and a -10V voltage stabiliser and I think I'm there.
Wired it in last night using the unused carb heater wire which was already in the loom.
Now I just need an excuse to start the engine to test it in situ. Seems a bit frivolous running the engine up without good reason in the current climate!
Don't have a picture of it fitted, but this was the functional test.
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I used it as a temporary workshop for the engine and gearbox rebuild of my wife's Peugeot 309 Diesel. I have not got anywhere else to store and work on it. At least the weather is warm and sunny.
David.
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Hi,
Not having an S2 (or even a car ... so I use Barbara's) at present, I tend not to open this thread, but ...
... I've been drawing the tool I need to hump the next project around my "estate", using a 1/2" drive ratchet.
Nearly done! I'll get it posted here, as and when.
Of course it would be easy if there was an engine ... and I still had a crank-handle. See "Ice Cold in Alex". Been there, done that ... without the sand ... I reckon it was up a 1:4 slope. (1953 S1 that had been standing for 11 years).
Years later, I had to do it again, but this time an S2, standing for 9 years .with a rain water leak into the petrol tank ... it was full of thick brown liquid (baby zorst?).Great fun hand cranking it onto my trailer, which was facing UP another steep drive.
602
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I look forward to seeing your prototype drawing John... ;)
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Started on the engine removal
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Returning from the allotment today (thank goodness we are still allowed) the engine (3.9 V8) started hesitating under load, felt like a dodgy rotor arm. Got home OK, whipped off the dist cap and found a grotty looking carbon brush and a burnt rotor arm. Luckily I had spares for both and all good now. I restocked from the Distributor Doctor who is open as usual.
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A nice leisurely drive to work this morning. And a nice drive home later with a stop for fuel. I also now have a letter in my pocket should i be stopped by the police to say that im going to work.
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Thought I'd have a go at the accelerator linkage, weld up the wear in the rods and levers to remove slop. All set up at 9am, by midday I was still trying to get the welder to work. Eventually found the sleeve that the wire initially goes into was slid with muck - causing the wire not to pull through. Fixed that, then found the drive wheel was possibly worn out. But turned it round to the other slot - finally working, and the linkage was repaired.
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Hi,
I've been doing some drawings of the special tool I'm going to need to hand-crank my next project in and out of my garage.
Normally I'd just pull the spark-plugs, and use the starting/crank handle (as seen in "Ice Cold in Alex) ... only there won't be and engine to stick the crank handle into.
A club member has donated an axle drive flange, which he assures me will fit onto the gearbox clutch splines. So I'm whiling away some merry "isolation" hours, drawing the "conversion" plate that can be turned by a 15/16" socket ... and several 12" extensions. I'm now on the Mark 4 version ... getting simpler with each revision. The ultimate would be a 16mm (?) ID pipe with a 1/2" square on the end, to fit the socket. The other end would have two long slots, to catch hold of the "pegs" on a standard crank handle, and a hose clip to stop the slots opening up when I apply some grunt. I think I'll save that idea for next time.
I went into my garage today, to look into assembling my birthday bench. Wrong .... there's no room to walk from the back door to the up-and-over front door. Does anyone want a couple of 6ft caravan cushion?
602
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Fitted a fire extinguisher,. We once had to use one many years ago when my brother in law ha an accident with a petrol stove on the tailgate of my first S1.
I also removed the bolt from the per hub that persistently leaks when stopped in the wrong place. I degraded everything and refilled the bolt with some gasket cement on it.
Peter
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... I degraded everything and refilled the bolt with some gasket cement on it.
I suspect that should read 'degreased everything' and 'refitted the bolt'. :-)
Regards.
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"Sausage fingers" Pete ;)
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I suspect that should read 'degreased everything' and 'refitted the bolt'. :-)
Regards.
If it was me doing it then the original is far more likely... :stars
Alec
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I have predictive text.
Peter
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Looked at it and decided now’s the time to sort the garage out to release it😊
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A small victory today.
I had a sheared bolt in my bellhousing, so I sucesssfully welded a nut on and removed it.
I've never done it before, so I was a little chuffed. :first
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Yep very effective method as the heat also works it’s magic getting stuck threads moving..
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Went to pick up a mini fridge for a disabled lady so she can have it easily accessible by her bed.
This was pre arranged and left for me so I didn't need actual face to face contact with the people supplying it.
Have to say driving is rather pleasant at the mo due to there being very little traffic about..! ;)
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... reminiscent of driving in the 1960's :RHD
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And you'd remember that... :-X
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Currently only 12% of normal traffic volumes round here.
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... reminiscent of driving in the 1960's :RHD
I thought the same thing Alan except for sunday when there is still more than was about in the sixties :tiphat
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Yep, I said to the lady when I took the fridge round, that on the road it's just like I remember it during the early 70s !
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Moved what is turning out to be my favourite to a new resting place. This one actually starts and drives! OK, so I have to feather the handbrake to come to a halt. I am the second owner and I love the look of the faded paint, battered roof and worn galv.
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Changed the oils all around yesterday and while doing so I found a nasty leaking underseat tank.
Fortunately I have got a replacement one sitting in the garage from when the other side was leaking a few years ago. As I was too lazy to properly seal and paint it then (yes, new paddocks one), I’ll have something to do now during lock down.
I’m lucky as when I bought the tank I also bought the sealant and paint, so all should be here to start right away.
Stay healthy!
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:tiphat yesterday I adjusted the brakes all around and had a go at adjusting the handbrake but got called away on dog walking duty 2 hours and just over 6 miles later I called it a day and we had a lovely quiet evening in front of the wood burner :cheers keep well everyone Paul Tash n Barney
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:tiphat Had a knock on the door at 09:00 neighbour had a flat battery on his micra so fired up the series 2 turned it around and jump started it he was happy and went on his way, and I parked back up :cheers Paul Tash n Barney
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Moved what is turning out to be my favourite to a new resting place. This one actually starts and drives! OK, so I have to feather the handbrake to come to a halt. I am the second owner and I love the look of the faded paint, battered roof and worn galv.
Wow, that's a nice one! What tires are those? Might look nice on my 86" in a smaller version.
Jeremy
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A bit of spring cleaning today
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OT in that it relates to the 90 but such a simple fix to what I thought was a major problem, I thinks its worth repeating... The 90 has been stood a while, brought back into use to shift bales of hay to the cattle. Worked fine for several weeks and then developed a clutch fault, the pedal would go down but not return without the assistance of a bit of rope. Seemingly not a "seals" issue as the fluid level was not dropping...… Simple advice on the SLROC forum was to oil the top pivot. So simple I'd not even considered it... and I have to report that after a couple of days of oiling and working up and down, it seems to have freed itself off. Who'd have thought.
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Packed away my original 1959 engine as Im not going to be used, until I decide what to do with it.
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Hello
My ignition light is down
No blinking .....
and my horn is down to >:(
open the tex magna
didnt find anything
put all together.........
and horn in funktion!!!!!
ignition light do what to do :-*
kind of magic? ???
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Queen? ???
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Nee
Zicke!
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Seatbox out ( Caution, strong language) and looking at the oily lump beneath I thought it would be a good idea to clean it before trying to pull the gearbox back. I think this may take a while....
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Shuffled various things between various sheds to make the arrangement a bit more logical when I am trying to find things.
In the process I realised that my two truck cabs are substantially different and being a self-confessed rivet counter I will need to look into why. Also managed to get some photos of my various radiator shrouds for another thread.
Land-rover fun was ended by the nut falling off the end of the wheelbarrow wheel shaft and disappearing into the grass. An hour with a metal detector and still no luck. Under normal circumstances I would just go and buy a replacement; under current circumstances it looks like I will be spending several more hours on same... :thud
Alec
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Buying a new wheelbarrow just because a nut fell off is a bit extreme 😄
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Buying a new wheelbarrow just because a nut fell off is a bit extreme 😄
Round here at the moment it might actually be easier to get hold of!
Alec
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Not mine, but a 1960 LHD station wagon of my friend.
Spent 3 hours helping said friend remove the wiring from his bulkhead in prep for installing the new loom I crafted for his 88”. Of course during the cut out we removed his oil bath filter, the Kodiak heater and found the fan still works, but the heater’s main ducting and steel housing are a bit rusted through, plus also a seized the choke switch, and instrument panel - what a rats warren that is. Still having problems removing the cap for the 6 way junction box -brass screw is not cooperating. Any advice about how one might get this offintact would be much appreciated, thank you.
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Took the front axle off it to rebuild it, then transfer to the new chassis.
The only problem is that delivery is not guaranteed if I need any other parts than those I already have in stock
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Starting the clutch change …..finding that I'm looking at a "951" numbered gearbox, supposedly a S3 item, but its got a S2 style clutch slave set up....
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I know folk did used to swap bellhousings and release set up for the 2/2a type, as I recall you can do this with some but not all S3 boxes... there's possibly other stuff you needed to fettle / replace to achieve this, (I haven't actually ever done this myself)
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^^^ Likely to have been done at some point in its MoD service I suspect.
Off out to continue disconnecting the rear prop, handbrake etc.
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Result while disconnecting the engine I found my thirteen mil stubby spanner that went missing two years ago it was poking out from the steering box cover on the inner wing :first
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There is more rejoicing over the return of a lost spanner than in the nine and ninety hanging on your wall!
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Hi.
I've been drawing the tool I'm going to make, to hand-crank my new Landy (when it arrives) into my front garden. I've just finished detailing the splines.
Posting the piccy here is probably going to be beyond me.
602
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Hi.
I've been drawing the tool I'm going to make, to hand-crank my new Landy (when it arrives) into my front garden. I've just finished detailing the splines.
Posting the piccy here is probably going to be beyond me.
602
Give it a try, adding a pic, I'm eagerly awaiting to see your prototype !
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Hi,
I should be able to add a picture tomorrow (I hope). I lost the lot yesterday evening, couldn't sleep, so spent the wee hours re-doing it.
That was after PC.1 had NO INTERNET SIGNAL, but PC.2 decided it was happy to play ... for a change.
I've now tried to log onto PC.2 ... only to find I'm locked out, for some reason I don't understand. It's chuntering on about a Challenge Phrase ... whatever that is?
My new printer is over endowed with bells and whistles ... way over my head. I'm paying £5 a month into a replacement ink scheme. The printer know when I'm low on ink, and orders a fresh supply. I'm starting to wonder what else the printer knows about me, and reports back to HQ. ??? Whatever, it recently informed me that I'm not keeping up the payments, so they have pulled my plug, apart from letting me print a snotty letter telling me.
It has been suggested that the card used for making the payments has expired ... probably correct, as Photobucket have just emailed to actually tell me something similar. Doh!
I am not fitted for the modern world. Wilkie is hiding. I'm on the point of telling the PC vendor to cancel the deal, and to send my (Barbara's) money back. Frankly, I'd be willing to throw it on the tip ... provided they come and watch me.
I think Barbara has accepted that she ain't going to get any new knees.
Yep! This is going to be a good decade.
Watch this space!
602
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You cant throw it on the tip, it is closed
Peter
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I've been working on my cylinder head.
Picture of a new valve ground to the seat, alongside the old valve.
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/valve_grind-2.jpg)
All valves nicely lapped in and nice and snug in the new guides. No slop, but they fall back into place under their own weight :first
Seals and springs to fit and then we're good for replacing the current (oily smokey) head.
The movie clip shows a valve falling back to the seat under its own weight.
Valve lift (http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/MVI_valve.mp4)
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That looks very good :first
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Topped the various EP90 reservoirs. 3/4 litre used.
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Nothing to my S2 , but after months of searching found this book , I was issued a copy in 1972 in my training in the Sail loft in HMS VICTORY , now renamed Nelson the main barracks in Portsmouth , I lent my original copy to a relative it seems it was disposed of , now I can check the allowances that should be made in measurements for stretch and shrinkage across the weft and in the warp of canvas , perhaps see why my Exmoor canvas doesn't fit , still got my seaming palm ,
Chris
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Fitted Zeus disc conversion to rear axle, did front axle a while ago, massive difference with both axles done, it did stop quite well before, would say it stops very well now.
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Got my PPE sorted out ... :cheers
Ready to hit the shops tomorrow :RHD
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Got my PPE sorted out ... :cheers
Ready to hit the shops tomorrow :RHD
Alan I'll look out for you at eight when the elderly vunerable and others are allowed in :agh
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Getting there at 8am, first in the line no good.
All the old bids and divs are queuing then.
Lunch time is the time to go ...
At our Sainsbury's they are letting us in one-in-one-out - which I think is a great idea, you only have to wait 10 or 15 minutes to get in.
Most of the basics are in stock - even some beer now - but no flour.
There were no queues at the checkouts (I always go to the human checkout - I don't agree with the auto checkouts as that's someone job gone and the savings go to the company, not to me as cheaper prices :shakeinghead )
I think they should adopt this policy permanently when the virus crisis has passed.
Because the 10 to 15 minutes spent waiting at the checkout gets passed to the entrance time.
With fewer bodies walking the isles, shopping is much more pleasant, even if some stuff is not on the shelves.
:coffee
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At our Sainsbury's they are letting us in one-in-one-out - which I think is a great idea, you only have to wait 10 or 15 minutes to get in.
Most of the basics are in stock - even some beer now - but no flour.
About what is happening in Matlock - we've got flour but very little rice or pasta. Waiting outside is OK with the weather as it is right now but it could be a bit bad if the rain comes back or a late winter storm arrives.
Concerning the shortages, I reckon the "bulk buying" and "hoarding" scare stories are mainly just that -- fiction. Most people did just what was ordered. They self-isolated and forted up in their houses with a week's supply instead of shopping every day.
In normal times, not counting works cafeterias, food outlets [fast food & restaurants combined] in the country churn out approx. 50 million meals per day, every day of the year on average.
There is no way on earth the "just in time" methods the supermarkets use to stock the stores could ever have coped with a population that suddenly had to buy food to supply that number of extra meals in the home overnight
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Fitted Zeus disc conversion to rear axle, did front axle a while ago, massive difference with both axles done, it did stop quite well before, would say it stops very well now.
Hi.
Is the difference in the rear axle noticeable?
I imagine that on the front axle yes.
Greetings.
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I brought the Carawagon home from the workshop a few days before lockdown, foreseeing what would happen! As it has been home I have done a couple of jobs I have been meaning to do over the winter. I've modified the cupboard that houses the cooker so it now takes a Waeco fridge underneath and the grill and double ring burner above that I have separated from the original Calor cooker. We just didn't use the oven at all and the lack of a fridge was becoming a pain on trips. The usual chest type wouldn't really work in the Carawagon so it had to be a barn door type affair and the oven has had to go as a result.
I also removed the original metal fan and fitted an electric fan instead. Since I fitted the Weslake head the fan sits lower (different water pump) and as a result I had to trim the blades slightly to clear the crank pulley. Not only that but I turned up some ally and spaced it out forwards so it probably wasn't going to do the water pump bearings any good in the long run. The other reason was the noise! Being a 6 pot driving around town all you could hear was the rush of that 5 bladed fan! Much more civilised now so I'll have to see how it behaves in the summer
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I brought the Carawagon home from the workshop a few days before lockdown, foreseeing what would happen! As it has been home I have done a couple of jobs I have been meaning to do over the winter. I've modified the cupboard that houses the cooker so it now takes a Waeco fridge underneath and the grill and double ring burner above that I have separated from the original Calor cooker. We just didn't use the oven at all and the lack of a fridge was becoming a pain on trips. The usual chest type wouldn't really work in the Carawagon so it had to be a barn door type affair and the oven has had to go as a result.
I also removed the original metal fan and fitted an electric fan instead. Since I fitted the Weslake head the fan sits lower (different water pump) and as a result I had to trim the blades slightly to clear the crank pulley. Not only that but I turned up some ally and spaced it out forwards so it probably wasn't going to do the water pump bearings any good in the long run. The other reason was the noise! Being a 6 pot driving around town all you could hear was the rush of that 5 bladed fan! Much more civilised now so I'll have to see how it behaves in the summer
Calum have you ever posted up a photo of your installed Weslake, or a thread about the modification? Did you also change the pistons or anything else, or is the bottom the standard Land Rover engine? What differences have you noticed in fuel consumption, and other performance?
Also, did you ever try splitting a Wurst lengthwise and grilling it in the Calor oven? Mmmmm, one of the easiest camping snacks. You might regret removing that oven!!
-Jeremy
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That's the Wurst Kase scenario! :shakeinghead
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Calum have you ever posted up a photo of your installed Weslake, or a thread about the modification? Did you also change the pistons or anything else, or is the bottom the standard Land Rover engine? What differences have you noticed in fuel consumption, and other performance?
Also, did you ever try splitting a Wurst lengthwise and grilling it in the Calor oven? Mmmmm, one of the easiest camping snacks. You might regret removing that oven!!
-Jeremy
Hi Jeremy
I did post some pics on the old forum but didn't really do a post or thread specifically for it - just posted info as and when people asked relevant questions. Maybe now in lockdown if I run out of jobs I'll sit down and post something! The bottom end is 'standard' Land Rover 2.6, albeit bored out to +.060". The only difference with the bottom end on a NADA/P4 110 is the compression ratio is higher as far as I know (cam is certainly the same). I have finally made a rectification to the intake elbow I made as it wasn't letting the carb operate properly which meant it wasn't fuelling correctly. Still, it has done several thousand miles like this so far. I have only ran it from the workshop to home with the new intake setup (around 5 miles) and the mixture needs resetting so I will wait to see what difference this makes. Fuel consumption is hard to equate really. Theoretically it should be more efficient as it is a lot less restrictive, but this means it's more efficient at drawing fuel in... if you drive it hard it'll drink fuel more than the standard engine but then that's to be expected with a bigger carb. Driven as smoothly as possible it should be as efficient if not more so. When we did our trip to Iceland in 2018 we averaged 13.5mpg over the whole 3500 miles. Obviously this was heavily laden with roof box and a good mix of driving - everything from rough tracks for miles in second high, barely above tickover through to hundreds of miles at 60-65mph on the motorway. I was also in convoy with a 300tdi powered rag top 88" which is towards the other end of the power to weight spectrum... another problem for me is I drive a 200tdi powered rag top 88" every day and when I jump in the Carawagon I often inadvertently find myself driving at similar speeds and accelerating at a similar rate (just much quieter!!) Probably not great for mpg..
I still think the mpg is to be improved upon especially with the carb much better set up but I also need to sort a better distributor with a bit more advance (20 degrees centrifugal rather than 16). Ideally megajolt would be the way to go with it...
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Hi.
Is the difference in the rear axle noticeable?
I imagine that on the front axle yes.
Greetings.
Hi, yes made a massive difference doing the rears, before I did the fronts, the mot man had commented that it stopped very well, but if we pulled the trailer loaded, brakes sometimes just didn't seem quite good enough, its got a 200 tdi, roamerdrive, 3.54 diffs, so trundles along quite well, did the fronts all was well, but as the wife had bought me fronts and rears, they needed to go on, haven't pulled the trailer with it yet, but solo brakes are very impressive. Its also got a remote servo.
Mark
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Yes, Calum, get that special thread going during the lockdown! With :photos
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Hi, yes made a massive difference doing the rears, before I did the fronts, the mot man had commented that it stopped very well, but if we pulled the trailer loaded, brakes sometimes just didn't seem quite good enough, its got a 200 tdi, roamerdrive, 3.54 diffs, so trundles along quite well, did the fronts all was well, but as the wife had bought me fronts and rears, they needed to go on, haven't pulled the trailer with it yet, but solo brakes are very impressive. Its also got a remote servo.
Mark
:cheers
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........stopped very well, but if we pulled the trailer loaded, brakes sometimes just didn't seem quite good enough,
Best check the trailer brakes are working.
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Best check the trailer brakes are working.
Trailer brakes all good, will have to wait until were back to normal to see how much better it is with discs and some weight in the trailer.
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An April job...
Took the engine oil filler tube off to paint it and sort out a slight leak. I haven’t touched it in 25 years ownership and was shocked at the amount of dirt/oil trapped in the engine mount just below. See attached photo
I’m going to clean the filler tube by hand...Mrs Dave is patrolling the kitchen so the dishwasher parts washer is OOB (out of bounds) for now
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I should have posted the above in the new thread “What have I done today “
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An April job...
Took the engine oil filler tube off to paint it and sort out a slight leak. I haven’t touched it in 25 years ownership and was shocked at the amount of dirt/oil trapped in the engine mount just below. See attached photo
I’m going to clean the filler tube by hand...Mrs Dave is patrolling the kitchen so the dishwasher parts washer is OOB (out of bounds) for now
When was the last time you took the oil pan out?
If it was many years ago, it would be a very good idea to take it out and wash it, there is also a lot of dirt.
It is not difficult, and your engine will thank you.