Print

[Bradley66]

Pulled away from a T junction the other Friday and there was bang , and ............

[genocache]

I found one of mine cracked last year and replaced it before it broke. I think the originals are reaching their lifespan, seems to be a few of these in the last year or so.

[Bradley66]

It was only a gentle acceleration but I can forgive it letting go after 55 years of use . At least I have a spare .

[gcc130]

Ouch!
I know where you’re coming from though.
I did a 3 point turn with my s1 + Brockhouse trailer, went to leave Mc Donald’s car park and nothing! Rear half shaft had snapped, no bang, no drama, it had just come to the end of its life😊
Go me 30 miles home in 4wd though

[2a_Lightweight]

I did the same moving a very heavy trailer, diff centre let go. I replaced it with a Quaife torque biasing centre.

[Bradley66]

It has occurred to me that I could replace it with a Limited Slip Diff . I don't really want to , or have a need to carry out any major modifications but if there is an LSD out there that will easily fit an original Rover back axle I might go that way.

[Formerlyjeremy]

The Belgian military had 2 WD vehicles - with LSD's.

I don't know much about them except they existed - the rear axle may have been Salisbury who supplied other manufacturers with LSD's.

[Bradley66]

I may ring Ashcroft Transmissions and see what they have that may be suitable .
Has anyone any experience of their Torque Biasing LSD in a series Land Rover ?

[2a_Lightweight]

Ashcroft Torque biasing diff won’t fit as its 24spline only. You are limited to Quaife or Truetrac. I went for Quaife as it’s UK made and higher quality, twice as many gears as the Truetrac but you pay for it -£850.

I love Torque biasing diffs, for driving in sand / mud etc they are excellent; as well as the Quaife, I have Truetrac in one defender 90 and Ashcroft ATB in another. Not really a lot to choose from them. Ashcroft are the best performance vs cost but obviously limited to 24spline.

[oddjob]

The Quaife looks like a nice piece of kit. 
One for the bucket list of mods. Is it hard rebuilding the diff around the lsd?
I've broken 3 or 4 diffs over the years, all in different ways but have never been brave enough to rebuild one.

 

[2a_Lightweight]

I have the correct pinion height gauges etc so completely rebuilding diffs is no issue.

If you just want to fit an new centre then it is quite straight forward as if the diff is known to be good you can leave the pinion and pinion bearings untouched and just remove the old centre, swap the crownwheel on to new centre and fit new bearings to the centre. You then use a Dial test indicator to get the positioning of the centre correct to obtain the correct backlash.

A lot of slop in the diffs is caused by excessive prolonged wheelspin causing the pinion gears to wear themselves into the carrier, a Quaife or similar completely removes this slop.

[oddjob]

Sounds good. Thank you.
 

[w3526602]

Hi,

Barbara phoned to say that Plod had given her an hour to get her car off the middle of the A48.

Her Reliant Sabre 6GT had dropped it's front suspension (the same way as Morrisv 1000 do, only this was on TR2 suspension).

I managed to contrive to line everything up, and pull it together with a a ratchet strap ... and drive it home ... within the hour.

602

PS. It cost me £100 for the complete front suspension from the Motor Show Reliant Scimiitar GTE (TR6, but with chrome nuts and bolts, and the same calipers as an XJ6). The Sabre weighed about 800kg. 

[Nanuq]

Mine broke like that, we guessed it came from excessive wheelspin and shock.  Driving up my mountain in spring, there's a lot of ice with patches of traction starting to appear.  It's a 12% grade so my foot is heavy on the throttle, and if a tire lets go it spins like crazy.  Then if it touches pavement it suddenly stops and all that torque transfers across the diff to the other side.  It was just our guess.

[gvo416j R.I.P.]

Mine broke like that, we guessed it came from excessive wheelspin and shock.

You are probably right, but my guess would be that there was wear in the planetary gear set, the pin or differential case [or more likely all 3] prior to it breaking [or it had just had new superduper good quality halfshafts fitted].

From many years experience trialling these vehicles, I would say the order in terms of number of breakages was halfshaft first by a large amount, then diff. for the rear.

For the front it is the diff first by a long amount [planet gears break up or crown wheel/pinion mesh point breaks] followed by halfshaft. Not actually seen many series front halfshafts fail, and only ever seen the uj in the swivel fail once [and that was poor maintenance and running with no oil in the swivel housing]

Standard coil sprung axles are different with the rear being mostly diff failures and the front being mostly CV joint failures specially on axles with the more modern 24 spline 4 pin diffs fitted.