S2C Forum Archives
Main Section => Welcome to our virtual Pub Meeting ... => Topic started by: Wittsend on April 01, 2021, 09:16:47 AM
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Anything ???
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Converted it to coil springs and fitted a Tesla motor.
:cheers
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Converted it to coil springs and fitted a Tesla motor.
I see your date appropriate post :-)
Regards.
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I thought it was worth a try. :neener
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Replaced the glass in both wing mirrors, both were cracked by over-enthusiastic cows.... I bought 4 new glasses so I've now got spares. A while back I replace the dreadful pattern copies of wing mirrors with Ashtree M2000 mirror heads. They look the part but have a far better clamp than the majority of mirrors floating about. New glass was a fiver a side, a 1 minute job to extract the old ones and wrestle the new into the rubber surround. To look right on a series vehicle rotate the head so the writing is at the top.
https://www.avsuk.co/product/m2000ce-m2000fe/
Then moved on to more fun stuff, the post 500 mile "run in" oil change after the engine rebuild. All went well till I dropped the filter in the old washing up bowl/ catch can. A mini Exxon Valdez to clean up :-( Oil looked OK, no sign of any excess metalwork....
G.
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Actually on somebody else's Series 2A...
Fitted a new set of Jones springs - now sits perfectly. Checked the brakes... There as been an ongoing issue over braking problems and imbalance. Found a 1 1/4" wheel cylinder fitted to the right hand rear and a 1" cylinder fitted to the right hand front! Basically the poor thing was trying to brake diagonally. Moral of the story - don't let the local garage work on your brakes unless you trust their ability to do the job safely!
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Replaced the glass in both wing mirrors, both were cracked by over-enthusiastic cows
Looks like you need the Spafax unbreakable types as fitted to later military ones with that mirror arm style.
I've got a pair of much larger 14" x 8" truck type ones fitted to my FC motorhome. Excellent mirrors and they have survived a couple of collisions with low branches and other trucks on our narrow Derbys. roads.
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Replaced the glass in both wing mirrors, both were cracked by over-enthusiastic cows
Looks like you need the Spafax unbreakable types as fitted to later military ones with that mirror arm style.
I've got a pair of much larger 14" x 8" truck type ones fitted to my FC motorhome. Excellent mirrors and they have survived a couple of collisions with low branches and other trucks on our narrow Derbys. roads.
Thanks ! I shall check that out !
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Keep it away from the cows.
Peter
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Yesterday i talked to Mr.Weber!
Now "The Carburrattor" do what he told....sounds like an RR
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Keep it away from the cows.
Peter
Difficult, its a working vehicle. Having checked, I find that Ashtree also do useful looking unbreakable mirrors. I'll bear that in mind when the next replacement mirror is required.
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Shorter cows might solve the problem...
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Apologies - I appear to have got out of bed with my daft hat on today.
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Who knew that cows were so vain.
:cheers
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Out and about with North West 4x4 Responce at Rivington Pike, Lancashire supporting the local emergency services at this well known beauty spot.
It gives me a legitimate excuse to be out in the land rover
Whilst on duty met fellow club member tony James who was on duty with Lancashire Fire Service
Peter
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Drove it out of the garage in the afternoon sun, to get its stablemate out, also 4WD, to do its job for the first time this year.
Both started first time and ran well.
Felt the need to drive the LR round the field and up the hill in 4WD to charge the battery and lube the swivels - who was I, to resist?
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Solved the fuel gauge not working issue on '62 109 2 door ST. I tried my NOS spare sender and it worked fine. Reattached the sender in place, more forcibly then my predecessor and viola, the gauge now works fine.
Now installing 4 galvy bench seats.
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I moved a static caravan across a friend's field, it was going fine until I stopped, the caravan immediately sank down to it's axle. Took 2 trolley jacks and some oak boards to get it set up in its new position.....
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Not much... Stood beside it and talked to 109+1... Now have a nice set of bulkhead outriggers for my SW and some military light lenses for my LWT. Thanks Steve!
Perhaps I should get on and do some work on the SW and update the thread
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Not much... Stood beside it and talked to 109+1... Now have a nice set of bulkhead outriggers for my SW and some military light lenses for my LWT. Thanks Steve!
Perhaps I should get on and do some work on the SW and update the thread
Sounds familiar to my morning! Thank you Steve for all the bits for my 110! :-* :o
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Had a wee run out in the Landie, just for a test run you understand. Down though Hamilton then up the long climb to Strathaven, had a picnic in a laybye cause Strathaven park was chocker with people then a nice run over to East Kilbride and a coast down the hill to home. Enjoyed it and the Landie worked very well, clutch still grapping a bit but getting better, might try bleeding it again.
Dave.
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Emptied the mini dehumidifier in the Dormy. Had been getting alot of condensation in it so bought a small tube heater and then saw one of these https://www.appliancesdirect.co.uk/p/md900/electriq-md900-dehumidifier needs the tube heater in cold weather otherwise it clogs up with ice. Works OK in the small space and keeps everything dry.
Alec
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Moved the
reversing work light (period rectangular foglight) down from the roofrack to the panel above the number plate and hooked it up to the feed coming down the front-back trailer cable that emerges in the RH rear light cover box. Now I can see where I've been as well as where I'm going. :stars
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Made a slight adjustment to my clutch slave cylinder rod thingy , the one that goes to the triangular activating bit. Seems slightly better now , even without starting the engine I can select 2nd and third more easily and the pedal has a better feel.
Also put some Molyslip in the box for good measure . Haven’t had a chance to try it on the road because my dinner was ready . ( That’s evening meal just to avoid the Lunch , Dinner , Tea , Supper debate )
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Dont use molyslip in situations where there are plain roller "hyat" type races, it is too slippy and causes the rollers to skid instead of turn develkoping flats.
(The PO did it to my overdrive and almost knackered it)
Peter
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Took it over to sister #1 to borrow a trailer for a delivery to sister #2. Left it at sister #1's 'cos the trailer socket cable had parted company with the socket. Borrowed a Shogun(!) from sister #1's partner for the delivery. Brought series back home this evening. Missed out on my fifty mile NVH fix!
I suspect I know what I'll be doing with it tomorrow.....
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Out again yesterday afternoon with the NW 4x4 Response Volunteers up Rivington Pike, clearing up after the rabble who drop their litter and generally keeping people safe. An opportunity to drive the full length of a green lane that I have only ever driven part of before. They like having the series there, it attracts as lot of attention and gives an opportunity to promote the charity.
It was my off road assessment for them that provided the opportunity for the phot in the March Competition
Peter
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Spent some time cleaning threads on hubs prior to rebuild. A very satisfying pastime.
Martin
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martin, use a 3/8 BSF tap to clear the threads for the bolts that hold the drive spider on and clear any debris from the bottom of the holes if they are blind. I have had one break this weekend because it bottomed. (long story related to some work a garage did for a PO but I now have to take the hub off and get out the remnants of the broken bolt and they are an odd length.
Peter
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Didn't have a great day yesterday, one of my wheel studs has come out. This video shows it before the welds holding it completely severed https://youtube.com/shorts/JjUpFyj7SiM?feature=share (https://youtube.com/shorts/JjUpFyj7SiM?feature=share)
Its a pull in type wheel stud and it's completely wollered out the hole so fixing it will require quite a lot of effort. I'm hoping any welds I do will stick properly. Luckily I can probably borrow my friends milling machine to make sure I get the hole back in the right place
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If that is a pull in stud then i think your hub is knackered and you need to be replacing it.
How does the head of a pull through stud come fan enough through the hub to have that much thread through a double ended nut?
Peter
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Peter, I had thought of that but then forgotten so thank you. Before they go on I will do that.
Martin
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How does the head of a pull through stud come fan enough through the hub to have that much thread through a double ended nut?
Use the longer studs available from Zeus and others.
Alec
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A longer stud will not solve the problem if the head is coming through the hub or has failed. I have just ordered an 18mm end mill in case I need to replace any studs when I fix the broken bolt on my hub. ( I have an axle set as spares).
Note when the military replaced screw in studs with pull through they used standard size studs and double ended nuts. Although they look short with the but on they are safe. They also used standard length studs with Wolf wheels.
Peter
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I used the splined stud to replace a couple of threaded ones on my Series One and the studs have the same threaded length showing as the screw in ones, just short of the end of the Double cone nuts. For all intents they look the same as the screw in ones. . I did recess the back of the flange to take the head as per LR fitment.
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That is why I have bought an end mill to use in my pillar drill although with the longer zeus studs I shouldnt need to.
Peter
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... I did recess the back of the flange to take the head as per LR fitment.
That is the significant action required to see the visible stud the same length as the original screw in 9/16" studs. If the flange is not recessed the flanged & splined stud appears 2 or 3 mm shorter than the originals.
Regards.
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While sat in the waiting room, I recall hearing a couple of MOT mechanics arguing about the double ended studs on Dormy. One was saying there should be stud threads clear of the wheel nut and the other pointing out that if they weren't double ended nuts then there would be stud threads exposed.
Fortunately the second guy won the argument and I drove out with the MOT certificate.
Some of the studs were original screw-in and some were replacement pull-through.
Dormy
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A longer stud will not solve the problem if the head is coming through the hub or has failed.
I agree -- who knows, perhaps the previous owner who fitted the pull through studs undercut too much for the head ???
I am always surprised that no one ever mentions the difference in hubs as the later hub for a pull in stud is approx 1/16" thicker than the corresponding hub for the staked studs [more than an1/16" if you measure the early hub from the face to the bottom of the groove for the staking].
Obviously, because so many have done the conversion to the earlier hubs with no dire consequences, the hubs were over-engineered to such a degree that the thinner cast is not a problem -- unless a gorilla gets on the wheel brace ???
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Dash almost finished and dry fitted new manifolds and carb setup.
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That's unusual using a Stromberg carburettor.
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Is that a HNJ cab adapter or one from ACR
THe 2.6 6 cylinder engines use a Stromberg
Peter
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I added this cast aluminum step to the tailgate rather than convert the tailgate to a swing away design. I also added 4 bench seats to this 109 2 door soft top.
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That is ingenious!
I have the same tow hitch and make any passengers stand on it to climb over the closed tailgate. Your solution provides much more elegant disembarkation. :first
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Is that a HNJ cab adapter or one from ACR
THe 2.6 6 cylinder engines use a Stromberg
Peter
It is one of HNJ's and they were designed to support both the SU and the Stromberg 175.
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Thanks. :bright-idea The cast step is from Amazon as is the hard rubber bumper. (is disembarkation a word? I guess it is, no spell check. I would have been wrong with disembarkment!)
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I wasn’t sure either but kept typing. :-X
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Most definitely a good word. You would disembark a ship or an aircraft. The act of doing so would be disembarkation.
Not sure where the rush of English grammar came from, but it works for me!
That step or similar is available here. I did one for somebody's Transit pickup recently. I'll see if I can find out where he got it from, but it looks very similar.
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About the grammar, hold on while I remove my tongue from my cheek.
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I did the weekly shop in the 6 pot this morning for a change, it will not be such a rare occurrence going forward.
This afternoon was all about installing badges.
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Is that a HNJ cab adapter or one from ACR
THe 2.6 6 cylinder engines use a Stromberg
Peter
HNJ.
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Made up some canvas strips for the front apron and fitted them with brass rivets.
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Wow :o
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Made up some canvas strips for the front apron and fitted them with brass rivets.
I meant to say that I have made up three extras sets of canvas strips from the surplus webbing if anyone wants a pair?
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Having a spring clean, neighbour has arranged for a touring scrappy to collect from them, so I used Tonka to help shift (some of) our scrap down to a central collection point...
"Some of" - The exercise has revealed differences in opinion within the household as to what counts as "scrap" .... :-X Maybe I'll invest in a couple of new Tarps to cover the projects...
Domestic Brownie points recovered by also selling some more of the scaffolding pile to a plasterer via Gumtree, it'll all go once the house extension is finished, again a job for Tonka & the trailer to shift it. We bought a "houses worth" of second-hand scaffolding back in 2013, when we started the project, I'll keep a towers worth for any repair jobs and sell the rest in penny-packets. At current rates, that will more than recover the original cost - not including labour and the 6 x 40 mile round trips it took to get the stuff here !!.
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My vintage 'Priority' 5/16 punches arrived (ebay purchase), so I made a very poor job of stamping the replacement galvanized chassis.
Not sure how it went so badly (practice was fine).
It's legible though so I'm not too bothered, and it is a Friday afternoon job. :-)
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^^^ Not perfect but then the originals were not that much better !
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The joys of British weather. I spray painted some parts and left them in the sun, looked outside 15 minutes later and it was snowing...
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Collected this 1968 military LWB today. It is currently 24v but will be restored 12v for my use. It is remarkably solid and straight. Even the swivels have been protected by gaiters and are shiney.
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Made up some canvas strips for the front apron and fitted them with brass rivets.
Is this what was supposed to be on the end of the panel? I have often wondered what the three holes in the ends of mine were for!!!
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I meant to say that I have made up three extras sets of canvas strips from the surplus webbing if anyone wants a pair?
I’d definitely be interested... I’ll drop you a DM....
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Made up and tested a hazard light test rig to test my simple circuit. Good news is that it worked fine Is there any reason why I shouldn’t replicate this on the real thing ?
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Won't the right/left split circuit need either a couple of diodes or another relay to avoid just paralleling up both sides?
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Made up and tested a hazard light test rig to test my simple circuit. Good news is that it worked fine Is there any reason why I shouldn’t replicate this on the real thing ?
Normally, if you activate the hazards they'll be running for some time.
Perhaps an over-night test ??? just to test the endurance of your system/circuit.
:RHD
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Won't the right/left split circuit need either a couple of diodes or another relay to avoid just paralleling up both sides?
Yes. I would say so.
Also I don't see any warning lamp?
There is a simpler way to do this anyway using a double pole switch - there was a circuit on here a few days back from someone else which was pretty much how I wired mine many years ago. No electronics required (well unless the extra flasher unit is!).
Edited to add - there you go!
https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,6890.0.html
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Gilbo - The warning light is in the switch
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Threaded some 3/16 stainless to make new accelerator rods
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Won't the right/left split circuit need either a couple of diodes or another relay to avoid just paralleling up both sides?
I’m not quite sure what you mean . Are you saying that because left and right would be going through the same connection on the switch that under normal indicator operation it would “ come back “ to the hazard switch and flash all four ?
Andy
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Gilbo - The warning light is in the switch
I don't see a switch in your circuit (and therefore no worning lamp)
I assume then that it switches the relay - but I don't see why you have a relay unless the switch is not rated to carry enough current for the lamps.
Anyway, as drawn your circuit won't work correctly when installed in the vehicle. Any operation of the indicators will flash all four.
HTH
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I don't see a switch in your circuit (and therefore no worning lamp)
I assume then that it switches the relay - but I don't see why you have a relay unless the switch is not rated to carry enough current for the lamps.
Anyway, as drawn your circuit won't work correctly when installed in the vehicle. Any operation of the indicators will flash all four.
HTH
Sorry , my diagram isn’t very clear but the switch is the square thing to the right with one connection labelled Earth . I think I see your point now though , all four will flash when I indicate .
Time for a re-think
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As I want to keep the period looking switch with built-in warning lamp I’ve decided to go for 2 diodes which are now ordered . Let’s see if it works.
Thanks to Herald1360 , gilbo and Wittsend for your help and suggestions
Andy
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Yesterday but a 230 mile round trip to a funeral, an otherwise bad day made bright by going in the Land Rover.
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Speedo has started waving the needle in that 30-50 band. Simple I thought, sparing bit of grease will sort that. Unfortunately, looks like the inner is non removable, as no matter how much I tug it, it won't slide out. Only been on nine years. Dripped a bit of oil and some solvent down it, but looks like a new cable needed.
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A trip out for wood fired pizza collection!
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As I want to keep the period looking switch with built-in warning lamp I’ve decided to go for 2 diodes which are now ordered . Let’s see if it works.
Thanks to Herald1360 , gilbo and Wittsend for your help and suggestions
Andy
They'll need to be quite beefy diodes- the running current of two 21W indicators is around 3.5A and the initial inrush current can be ten times that with repetitive surges as they flash of around 7A or so. I'd suggest using a small 35A bridge such as KBPC3504 which is only a few pounds and comes with benefits like single bolt mounting and 0.25" spade terminals. Probably total overkill but should be bombproof!
For a negative earth car, take the hazard flash feed to the -ve bridge output terminal and the left and right flasher links to the AC bridge terminals, leave the +ve bridge terminal open circuit (insulate it if there's any chance of an unwanted contact to it). Positive earth car, hazard flash feed to the +ve bridge output terminal.....
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Sorry if this isn't relevant to your specific setup or if it wouldn't work at all but I think instead of diodes you could use a double make and break relay. As shown in the picture attaching one sides indicators to 87 and the other side's to 87b would mean they don't connect to each other in normal use. Then switching the relay with whatever dash switch you want and would make the hazards flash all the indicators. I think this is what I plan on doing as it means I can use just one flasher relay for both indicating and hazard flashing
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They'll need to be quite beefy diodes- the running current of two 21W indicators is around 3.5A and the initial inrush current can be ten times that with repetitive surges as they flash of around 7A or so. I'd suggest using a small 35A bridge such as KBPC3504 which is only a few pounds and comes with benefits like single bolt mounting and 0.25" spade terminals. Probably total overkill but should be bombproof!
For a negative earth car, take the hazard flash feed to the -ve bridge output terminal and the left and right flasher links to the AC bridge terminals, leave the +ve bridge terminal open circuit (insulate it if there's any chance of an unwanted contact to it). Positive earth car, hazard flash feed to the +ve bridge output terminal.....
Looks to me like the bottom left hand diode has been drawn reversed on your diagram?
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Hi
After the car wash in Belper with the Disco.
I treated my canvas on the 2a, to Fenwicks Awning re- proofer.
Always found it quite good to be honest, £20 for 2 bottles, leaves a bit spare.
:cheers
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Finally got around to replacing the rear Diff centre with a front one of one of my parts axle assemblies.
Did not realise how much Faffing is required to remove the front differential.
I almost decided to fit this instead:
but it will wait for the SWB project.
Jamie
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Looks to me like the bottom left hand diode has been drawn reversed on your diagram?
:-[
Should be as below.
At least the markings vs connections were OK.
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After struggling to start it last week, i soon realised my electric fuel pump wasnt earthing. It's sat in a tin attached to the outrigger in front of the fuel tank. So yesterday i took it off and refitted it and made sure it was earthing properly. All working well now.
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Tonka working in ambulance mode....high energy feed for a sick cow.
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How's the moo this morning?
I may not have worked on a farm for a few years, but even I can work out that this ambulance may be somewhat inadequate if it actually has to carry a cow... I'm sure its been done somewhere though...
And yes... I do know those aren't cows...
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But it does say Moo in the background, are you sure they’re not cows.........😄
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How's the moo this morning?
I may not have worked on a farm for a few years, but even I can work out that this ambulance may be somewhat inadequate if it actually has to carry a cow... I'm sure its been done somewhere though...
And yes... I do know those aren't cows...
Must be getting himself a real 'good looker'as a trade - I mean FOUR camels!! I thought the going rate was one?
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This could run and run...
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How's the moo this morning?
The vet said 50/50 the night before last. She still with us, is eating and drinking, which is a good sign. Mahoosive injection of antibiotics etc. TLC and fingers crossed.
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New water pump was installed yesterday. Today I attached the pulley. I had noticed that on the old pump, the pulley seemed to have a wobble when running.
So I pulled out the DTI, and a few minutes work on the pulley got it running quite true. The hole in the middle and the holes for the bolts have some room for manoeuvre, a couple of pushes and tugs was all it took.
Filled with plain water and ran up to temperature - no leaks. Now to drain that out to replace the antifreeze.
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Changed out the kodiak heater pipe to original Wyrem. I think more authentic looking. Sourced them from Adrian member here.
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Put my Lightweight into long term storage today. Needed the space to work on the 65 SW and also I've taken on a 1969 rebuild. Picked that up today, so my wonderful bit of garage space lasted about 7 hours...
This is what one Lightweight looks like without bulkhead and rear tub...
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Suns out and tops off 😎😎😎
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Why is it upside down?:
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Finally refitted the gearbox after its oil loss! Overdrive still to go on after overhaul.
Considering fitting one of those aluminium transfer box sump plates.... any views?
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Why is it upside down?:
It came from New Zealand 😇
It seems to be an iPad thing, whereas the screen rotates, the ‘taken’ image doesn’t. One day I’ll try to find out exactly what does it.
Jon
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In last weeks cold weather I noticed the heater had packed up. Started by checking there was power to the switch - and there was only 2v.... Very odd. Opened the bonnet, checked the voltage at the fuse box... the same, 2v. Took the lid off the fuse box....green corrosion on the fuse body. Cleaned it up, replaced it...12.8v and fan moving nicely.
One of the simpler jobs !
:-X
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Considering fitting one of those aluminium transfer box sump plates.... any views?
I took the plunge when I put the Roamerdrive in...
Nice thing to fit, can't comment on the effectiveness or necessity of the cooling aspect given its application but it doesn't drip oil from sump :-*
Only leak is straight through the (apparently porous) sump plug :thud
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Still doing it .. out for a spin with the roof off as the weather is glorious and finally I can have a drink and BBQ with some mates in the garden tonight.
I am parked on a hill just now basking in evening sunshine.
Head home in a minute.
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Final 2 brake drums removed and all mud washed out, another adjusting pin on brake shoe welded in pace.
2 new track rod ends replaced.
Peter
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Why did you have to replace new track rod ends?
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I Kent 2 track rod ends replaced with new ones.
Peter
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For my brother's Series IIA, I made and installed 8000Lb electric winch, It looks very good and looks good. I still have to finish making the electrical connection.
It is very firm, I could hang the LR from the winch.
Still very pleasant weather on this side of the world, about 25 degrees and Sun.
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Finally managed to use a Christmas present from 2019! Two nights pod accomodation, an exotic 7 miles from home.
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Still very pleasant weather on this side of the world, about 25 degrees and Sun.
Last Saturday I was feeding cows in a snow-storm....today its sunny, warm and I'm out feeding cows in a tee-shirt !
:-X
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New coil and HT leads. Road test OK.
But how hot the coil must be? I never touch the old one this is hot you can touch it but is hot
Cheers
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Went for some fuel this morning and took the long way home.
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Specially for Andy this.
I went for a ride up Rivington to empty a collecting box but I took the opportunity to go rest of the way along Georges lane to the pigeon tower, I then took the right fork (dont go straight on onless you are in John Cramphorn's 101). The gate is no longer locked. I carried on to the end and came out on the Road from Rivington to Belmont. It is a bit of a bone shaker but it gets the springs moving.
Peter
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Got a bit carried away looking for rust on the chassis. It was a whole car yesterday morning...
Now the debate begins - new chassis or stick the old one back together again.
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As the sun was out and there wasn't an artic gale blowing I decided to start UAD for the first time months. A short prime on the fuel pump and a turn of the key and it burst into life on the second compression stroke. The battery was quite low so it only just made it. With it revving the charge light failed to go out and the battery volts stayed at ~12v.
I made voltage measurements from the ignition switch down through the fuse box to the exciter terminal on the alternator. 12v the whole way. I did disturb a hibernating wasp in the fuse box though, it was not happy about being woken up and buzzed off.
Back to the alternator; with 12v on the exciter the alternator itself must be at fault, so I checked the brushes. They were long and shiny, as they should be. I pushed then in and allowed them to return under spring pressure and all seemed well.
With the brush pack refitted I tried again and the charge light went out and the battery volts rose to 14v. I can assume that the brushes had got sticky through non use and my moving them cleaned off any stickiness.
Next to take it out!
Malcolm
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Nice post, and photo, thank you.
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Specially for Andy this.
I went for a ride up Rivington to empty a collecting box but I took the opportunity to go rest of the way along Georges lane to the pigeon tower, I then took the right fork (dont go straight on onless you are in John Cramphorn's 101). The gate is no longer locked. I carried on to the end and came out on the Road from Rivington to Belmont. It is a bit of a bone shaker but it gets the springs moving.
Peter
Thanks Peter
I was always unsure if you could go all the way along Georges Lane And come out either were you did or further along Belmont Rd I suppose the trick is to start at the gate and if it's locked you can't get any further. I could never find a definitive answer if we were allowed to drive it. I like that little road at the side of Wilderswood back to Horwich
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I was always unsure if you could go all the way along Georges Lane And come out either were you did or further along Belmont Rd I suppose the trick is to start at the gate and if it's locked you can't get any further. I could never find a definitive answer if we were allowed to drive it.
Trailwise2 covers the route.
I like that little road at the side of Wilderswood back to Horwich
Not enough information to be certain, but if you mean Marklands Road just north of Montcliffe to Foxholes Road and Mill Lane Horwich, all that is a standard tarmac highway, as travelled by the Google Mapping car.
At Marklands Road, Montcliffe, the route is signed 'unsuitable for HGV's', according to Google streetview of 2009 (It also has a 30mph sign).
Seems like a good endorsement to me, but might mean I haven't found your "little road at the side of Wilderswood back to Horwich".
Regards.
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[Not enough information to be certain, but if you mean Marklands Road just north of Montcliffe to Foxholes Road and Mill Lane Horwich, all that is a standard tarmac highway, as travelled by the Google Mapping car.
At Marklands Road, Montcliffe, the route is signed 'unsuitable for HGV's', according to Google streetview of 2009 (It also has a 30mph sign).
Seems like a good endorsement to me, but might mean I haven't found your "little road at the side of Wilderswood back to Horwich".
Regards.
[/quote]
David
I'd forgot about that one. From Horwich then go up Mill Lane Foxholes Rd Marklands Rd and come out on Georges Lane. Take a leftand left again down Old Rake and Factory Hill (thats the road i meant) and back to Mill Lane.
Andy
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David
I'd forgot about that one. From Horwich then go up Mill Lane Foxholes Rd Marklands Rd and come out on Georges Lane. Take a leftand left again down Old Rake and Factory Hill (thats the road i meant) and back to Mill Lane.
Andy
Ok, as before "as travelled by the Google Mapping car, the route is also signed 'unsuitable for HGV's', according to Google streetview of 2009".
So I see it as being good to go, meaning you have some scenic routes to follow after your second vaccination is delivered.
Regards.
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New coil and HT leads. Road test OK.
But how hot the coil must be? I never touch the old one this is hot you can touch it but is hot
Cheers
The coil should only be slightly warm.
If it gets too hot, it may be that the coil you use is designed to be used with resistance.
In the Series coils are originally used without resistance.
If you use a coil designed for use with resistance, but connect it without resistance, the points will be short-lived. Greetings Neighbor.
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Hi all replaced OSF front hub seal on KBY, blew some more fuses trying to sort out temp gauge supply through 10volt regulator
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A trip to the quarry so I can start the annual pot-hole filling festival on the track...
Tonka and the Ifor Williams 10x5 trailer ( empty) show as 2100Kg on the weighbridge, 4100Kg on the way back out....
"Type 1 sub-base", (A mix of gravel and finer material, supposed to pack down as a solid surface ) £20 a tonne.
....now for the fun bit, shovelling it into the holes.
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Steam cleaned my engine block prior to painting ...
Needs a 2nd go over tomorrow.
:RHD
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On my brother's Land Rover IIA: I checked the voltage in the main lights, discovered a voltage drop of just over 2 volt. The light switch (original) takes some temperature.
I will connect the high and low lights with a relay, thus prolonging the life of the switch and improving the lights. :first
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went to start up the new 109 ST, and the battery was dead??? Ignition light barely alive. Put in a new battery. Once I connected the leads, I could hear a very soft whirring, motor type sound. What the hell?
It was chilly yesterday and I had turned on the Kodiak to see how well it worked. (not well). I had inadvertently left the fan switch on low not realizing that my predecessor had not wired the Kodiak through the ignition so the fan had been on until the battery ran out.
Problem solved, could have been worse.
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Very nearly got stuck. I was in the woods and drove through some muddy wheel ruts.
They've been fine all winter (if getting deeper) but they've dried a bit and I had some trouble getting out of the slurry in the bottom.
I didn't need to resort to a winch but I'm surprised how poor my Michelin Latitudes are in the mud!
Still, the passengers enjoyed it :-)
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Went to collect a 1958 spreadbore engine from a club member and called in to see Jim gardner at Leaf Sprung Landys on the way to look at another land rover belonging to a club member. a good run out with the land rover and trailer.
Peter
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First trip out to the pub since last spring and look who we bumped into... social distanced parking of course....!
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A trip to the Mart for cattle feed, via Screwfix. Took the scenic route home. The small pleasures in life...
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No feeling like it! First engine start after major rebuild. Running well and only one water leak............at the minute. 👍
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Drive it and enjoy it very well, after full dist rebuild with power spark spares, new coil and new HT wires is a really pleasure use the car, never think so simple ignition system can be so difference with good parts.
Time to put some fuel ..... again!
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Nice drive to the cider shop , Bruce decided to stay in car eventually came out after nearly a hour
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Drove it to the bottle bank.
Came home and looked under the bonnet.
Marvelled at the unadulterated beauty of a 2.25 diesel engine.
Put it back in the shed.
Exhausted after all this activity, came inside and made a pot of tea.
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Started chiseling the body filler off the driver's side wing. I expected it to be bad but I didn't expect do find a massive hole. Combine that with the corrosion holes on top and the time it would take to make it slightly better and I'm starting to think I might look for a another wing.
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Looks like that has quite literally been in the wars... I had a Range Rover Classic in Sarajevo with holes like that
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Some interior design. Have I got the period-look correct for a 1963 Landy-Lady?
I suppose scatter cushions might be a step too far ???
:grinder
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I finished repairing and upgrading my Smiths Heater, it now has a new motor and it runs at 2 speeds instead of the original 1. It sucked instead of blew on my first attempt but a simple polarity switch solved that. The fan rattles a little especially at the lower speed but if it thinks I’m taking it all apart again to have a look it’s got another think coming.
I painted my “new” 569690 wheels fresh from Nathan in Glasgow, thanks Nathan, I bet you don’t recognise them.
I swapped out my damaged wing mirror door hinge for a new one supplied by Robin and the damaged one is now waiting to be packaged up and send back.
Finally and most contentiously I finished my interim fix for my missing steering column bracket. It is now infinitely safer than it was before and it will live this way until my new parts arrive and I can coax my brother into coming over and helping me out.
Unfortunately after all this she won’t start, clearly something I’ve done or knocked along the way. The electric pump carries on pumping and never stops, there is no petrol leaking from anywhere and she tries to fire but there is clearly no petrol getting to the cylinders. I know there’s plenty of fuel in the tank, (or is there?) maybe I’ll put my Jerry can in there and try again. There was plenty when I went to Daventry but I’ve parked her pointing uphill and that may have left the pickup high and dry, probably not but it’s worth a look.
I may be back later.
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No. That wasn’t it, I’m a bit stuck now.
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Spent the afternoon building up a late 2A axle. Wasted far too much precious time trying to work out why the new 2A brake drum wouldn't fit only to discover that the LH corner has a S3 hub... :bright-idea >:D >:D >:D >:D
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Went to start Tonka this morning...no go. Turned over nice and fast but would not fire..... started checking connections, fuel etc. The coil-dizzy lead was off at the coil, end tucked up under the "elephants trunk". Very odd. Manxcat suggests that Barncat may have snurgled up in there for a warm and dislodged it. He has an affinity with the feline so he may be right.
:tiphat
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Continued to strip the spread bore engine that I have bought for my 58 SWB.
Patience, a little gentle heat and loads of penetrating oil worked, I have got the alloy distributor tube out of the block along with the oil pump and the rear rocker shaft. I need to see what can be salvaged.
Peter
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I've been rebuilding the swivel.
My wife went to bed early, good opportunity to use the kitchen oven, heat the spherical balls for 40 minutes and cool the bearings in the freezer, the bearings entered without effort, and my wife did not know anything ..
I will sleep with a smile. :-X
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Spent the afternoon building up a late 2A axle. Wasted far too much precious time trying to work out why the new 2A brake drum wouldn't fit only to discover that the LH corner has a S3 hub... :bright-idea >:D >:D >:D >:D
What’s the problem, we ask ourselves. Presumably larger wheelstuds?
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Yup - The M16 wheel studs caught me out. I wasn't expecting it as all the others are the correct UNF size. I'll order a S3 drum for that side and be done with it.
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Picked the SW up from the garage after having a bunch of niggling problems fixed. (Leaking NSF FWH, heavy brakes (split vacuum hose), 13mm alternator pulley to match 200Tdi crank and waterpump pulleys (no power steering!) and ally transfer box plate (might slow down the oil exit)). Haven't had the bill yet. ?:stars.
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Can't see what all the fuss is about with this slave cylinder access on Series 2s & 2As... All you have to do is remove the bulkhead and access is easy. :bright-idea
Rebuilding a 1969 2A. Thought I'd change the slave cylinder rather than doing something really productive like new brake lines. Spotted that the cross shaft boot is back to front, but seems happy in there, so I'm leaving it for another day. Looking forward to a delivery from Rob Owen in due course.
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Good idea to remove the bulkhead to change the slave cylinder, I don't know how I didn't think of it before ... ???
The front prop shaft is upside down too, but I don't think he cares much either ... :hummm
Interestingly, only in Land Rovers I have observed that the front prop shaft comes with the splines on the top, most of the 4x4 the splines go downwards, like the rear prop shaft of the Land Rover. I would like to know what is the reason for this. ???
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Used a "care and support" visit to a friend in Broadway as a handy excuse for a shakedown run. Out via old A44 all the way, side trip over to Evesham to do some shopping (Friday afternoon traffic in and out of Evesham is diabolical with roadworks on Waterside) and back via Pershore then across to Malvern and on to Bromyard to avoid night time A44 resurfacing closure between Worcester and Bromyard. A good NVH fix!
Edit: Technically this was now yesterday by the time I posted :stars