Post by: matada34 on October 26, 2019, 08:59:11 PM
Anyway we went the long way..... (ha ha!) to go through another closed road due to flooding.
I got part way and thought this is getting to deep, so I stopped, put her in reverse and she just slipped (clutch), misses was stressing, im feeling a donkey, few poeple watching.... after a few mins I managed to get her moving in low ratio.
After a but of research ive found I didnt put the wading plug in on the bottom of the flywheel housing so I could keep an eye on the new crank seal I fitted!! I can only assume its that!
Anyway, we got on out way and to m n s (the flood there wasnt as deep) and we got home!
Lesson learnt! :cheers
Post by: LandCasco on October 26, 2019, 11:10:03 PM
Anyone know the thread size of the plug?, I don´t have any one.
Cheers
Post by: Wittsend on October 26, 2019, 11:25:20 PM
A very common size in plumbing circles...
Post by: LandCasco on October 27, 2019, 01:28:08 AM
Post by: winchman on October 27, 2019, 07:38:30 AM
Post by: matada34 on October 27, 2019, 07:54:53 AM
Can’t say I’ve seen any amongst plumbing parts though.
I see these are advertised as for a 2A, what’s the difference?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F221931859006
Post by: oddjob on October 27, 2019, 08:15:34 AM
Putting the wading plug is is a double edged sword. If you go deep enough for the water to go in via the clutch mechanism it won’t be able to drain out.
:cheers
Post by: Gareth on October 27, 2019, 08:33:22 AM
Post by: matada34 on October 27, 2019, 08:52:09 AM
The only thing that makes me think other wise.... the day before I was pulling a mates landy out, my rear wheel/s were spinning in the mud. If I had a weak clutch wouldnt it have slipped then aswell?!
Post by: Robin on October 27, 2019, 09:09:21 AM
The wading plug should only be fitted when you expect to be wading, and removed afterwards, otherwise any oil leaks from the gearbox input chaft or crankshaft seal will build up and contaminate the clutch.
The main reason for fitting a wading plug is to stop dirty water getting in as grit in the water will cause wear of the clutch. Clean water shouldn't be a problem as long as you're gentle with the clutch and not asking it to do too much, as you found, and it will soon dry out once you are out of the water.
If you go deep enough for the water to go in via the clutch mechanism it won’t be able to drain out.
Officially you shouldn't be wading that deep (I know, we all do it :tiphat), but the official wading depth is up to the wheel hub, I think.
Robin.
Post by: winchman on October 27, 2019, 09:27:32 AM
https://mocap.co.uk/general-purpose-plugs-bsp-threads.html
Post by: Dentman on October 27, 2019, 10:23:02 AM
Post by: matada34 on October 27, 2019, 12:54:49 PM
Post by: Smokey 11a on October 27, 2019, 02:14:55 PM
Post by: Wittsend on October 27, 2019, 02:44:42 PM
e.g.
auction: #323899234488On the LWT there's a special bracket fixed to the crossmember to keep the wading plug...
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/wading_plug.jpg)
If just going through river/flood water I wouldn't bother with fitting the wading plug.
On many of our Land Rovers the clutch actuation cross shaft gaiter/gasket is missing, or broken, or not fitted correctly and so the bell housing is not water proofed.
So water/mud/grit is going to get in that way.
The presence of the wading plug just means the water/mud is going to slop around in the bellhousing :shakeinghead
However, if I were at a pay-&-play mud pit off-road site then I would definitely fit the wading plug.
Clutch slipping after hard work or getting wet could be a sign that the friction material is worn down a bit, or the heat generated from hard work (slipping the clutch pedal) has glazed the plates a little. It should wear off with steady use. If you think the clutch plates are contaminated, you could fit the wading plug and fill the bellhousing with genuine full fat Coca-Cola followed by a rinse out with clutch/brake cleaning fluid.
The question is: What's the state of your clutch - when was it last changed, how many miles has it done ???
:RHD
Post by: Porkscratching on October 27, 2019, 03:40:08 PM
I like Mr W's "Coke clutch wash" theory.. :-X
Post by: Gareth on October 27, 2019, 05:36:42 PM
Post by: matada34 on October 27, 2019, 07:58:26 PM
Clutch has done 2000 road miles since new.
The way it suddenly went, to me it wasn’t normal.
When i selected low ratio it same out easy.
I reversed 30m, back to high ratio and all was fine although a little clutch Judder at first.
I’m defo a bit lost with this one >:(
Post by: matada34 on October 28, 2019, 10:22:57 AM
However, im not sure ive stopped in there before!
Post by: oddjob on October 28, 2019, 03:28:37 PM
Post by: jkhackney on October 28, 2019, 05:09:21 PM
jeremy
Post by: Robin on October 28, 2019, 05:22:19 PM
Just to add to this, I have been through other fords before which im pretty sure would come over the flywheel housing and ive never got stuck!
However, im not sure ive stopped in there before!
I think you've answered your own question.
As I said before, water does act as a lubricant - the friction material is very similar to brake shoes, and we all know how efficient those are after a dip through a ford :agh
If you don't dip the clutch when you're wading, no water can get between the flywheel, friction material and pressure plate, so you wouldn't normally get any clutch slip.
Presumably your clutch is now behaving normally? In which case, water as a lubricant is the obvious answer :tiphat
Just my opinion though :cheers
Robin.
Post by: matada34 on October 28, 2019, 08:50:28 PM