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 21 
 on: Yesterday at 02:33:37 PM 
Started by Guppy10 - Last post by Guppy10
Hi guys.  First post so be gentle.  HAve tried to look for answers elsewhere but can't seem to find any.

I've had a series 2 1959 for a good few years now and have finally taken the plunge to rebuild the gearbox after becoming thoroughly bored of consistent jumping out on overrun.  Original '59 141 box

Usual suspects encountered on dismantling - loose main nut, layshaft front bearing race cracked, and bronze bush in three lovely jagged pieces.  However, upon rebuilding the main shaft with some new bits from Dingocroft I have the following issues when using .0125 (smallest) thrust washers:
2nd gear endfloat: 4 thou. Good.
3rd gear endfloat: <1 thou
Bush endfloat: < 1 thou

In the manual there's options for increasing size of thrust washers and sanding bush for too large an endfloat - but what about too little?  Is the bush out of spec? (apparently genuine OEM spec - I paid the money for quality (apparently).  Or do I not worry about it?

Would appreciate any help or comments!

 22 
 on: Yesterday at 02:17:41 PM 
Started by Henrik - Last post by kev
I read somewhere that the most dangerous part of a vehicle is the nut behind the steering wheel.🤔



So I took mine off, and promptly crashed into a tree…😂😂😂

 23 
 on: Yesterday at 02:13:02 PM 
Started by oilstain - Last post by 2286
Am I right in thinking that when rear door got a factory wiper, the washer bottle was stowed behind the door trim.  Just in case there was not enough water build up to rot the frame and curl the trim.

 24 
 on: Yesterday at 01:56:23 PM 
Started by 2286 - Last post by 2286
Does anyone run an fc or 101 that is mot exempt, as reading archive I read that they are 200kg over gross weight and so not mot exempt under the blanket ruling?


Here is the full text.

MOT Exemption post 20 May 2018.

Introduction

The Series 2 Club has been requested to provide advice to members on the declaration of exemption from the requirement for annual MOT testing for “Vehicles of Historic Interest”. The decision to declare your vehicle exempt from the MOT is yours alone, the Club takes no responsibility if our interpretation of the DfT guidelines is incorrect. The following therefore provides the Club’s view on interpretation of the DfT guidance as it specifically relates to our vehicles, provided as a group of volunteers, in good faith and based on our knowledge of the Marque. We note in particular its history of gradual development through evolutionary change and the legendary adaptability of the vehicle which lead to its early and continued in-service modification as owners “improved” their vehicle. We therefore recognise that a major element in the “historical interest” of our vehicles may well be the modifications made to them in 60 years of use.

The first point to note is that despite many of our vehicles becoming eligible for MOT exemption, it remains the driver’s responsibility to ensure their vehicle is roadworthy at all times. Being exempt from testing does not remove this requirement. Regular maintenance and checks are recommended for all road-going vehicles.

The MOT system is a cheap, simple and proven method of obtaining an impartial condition check which may spot issues that even well qualified owners may have missed. The Club would advise that submitting a vehicle for an MOT Test will provide peace of mind to all owners seeking confirmation of their vehicle’s mechanical condition or uncertain of their vehicle’s eligibility due to modifications.

Owners should also recognise that the modifications allowable under this scheme, involving in-service replacement of engines, axles and suspension could, under certain circumstances, result in a vehicle which would fail the strict “8 points” DVLA requirement to retain or reclaim its original identity.

Note also that some vehicles previously MOT exempt on age grounds (Pre 1960) WILL require MOT Testing if they have been “substantially modified” in the last 30 years.

Forward Control Vehicles: Sadly FC vehicles have a gross weight of 3700Kg which takes them 200Kg over the limit and into the “Goods Vehicle” category, needing an MOT.


The Club Advice: If in you are in any Doubt get your vehicle tested.

The following text in Italics is extracted from the Department for Transport Guidance, with our explanatory advice added below in Green text. Text irrelevant to our Landrovers has been deleted. 

The criteria for substantial change

A vehicle will be considered substantially changed if the technical characteristics of the main components have changed in the previous 30 years, unless the changes fall into specific categories. These main components for vehicles......are:

Chassis (replacements of the same pattern as the original are not considered a substantial change).

The Club considers that this allows ‘like for like’ replacement such as reproduction galvanised chassis, repairs and replacement of outriggers, cross-members, movement of engine mounts etc.

Changes to the chassis geometry such as shortening, lengthening, removal of chassis elements or substitution of coil-sprung chassis would NOT meet the criteria and would require MOT Testing. The only exception to this would be where positive proof that the alteration was made over 30 years ago can be provided.

Members will recognise that there is a particular issue with later vehicles with little or no Series 2 content being offered for sale as “Series 2” vehicles. For the avoidance of doubt, the identity of a vehicle remains with its Chassis. No Series 2, 2a or 2b vehicles were produced with chassis fitted with Coil Sprung suspension and very few were altered within the “over 30 years ago” criteria allowed by this scheme. It is highly unlikely that a coil-sprung vehicle can claim to be a “Series 2” or claim MOT exemption.

Axles and running gear – alteration of the type and or method of suspension or steering constitutes a substantial change;

The Club would advise that this excludes the use of coil-sprung chassis. Power steering and disc brake systems would be acceptable under the safety/efficiency criteria listed below. Conversion between LHD & RHD where both relay positions are available is acceptable.   

Engine – alternative cubic capacities of the same basic engine and alternative original equipment engines are not considered a substantial change. If the number of cylinders in an engine is different from the original, it is likely to be, but not necessarily, the case that the current engine is not alternative original equipment.

The Club would consider that any LR engine used during the production run of LR leaf-sprung vehicles or developed from them, such as the Tdi range, would be acceptable together with engines commonly fitted when they were in general use. Engines such as the Perkins Diesel and Ford V6 were also popular modifications during the period when the vehicles were in regular use and would meet the “in general use or 10 years” criteria below.

The following are considered acceptable (not substantial) changes if they fall into these specific categories:

Changes that are made to preserve a vehicle, which in all cases must be when original type parts are no longer reasonably available;

The Club considers “reasonably available” to mean that parts are available commercially and “off the shelf” to an Original Equipment specification. Owners should not feel pressurised to accept sub-standard “pattern” parts or pay exorbitant bespoke production costs if other parts can be utilised.   

Changes of a type, that can be demonstrated to have been made when vehicles of the type were in production or in general use (within ten years of the end of production);

The Club will consider “The Type” to have been in production until the end of S3 (leaf-sprung) production. Reasoning based on the S2/S3 junction being essentially cosmetic with most mechanical parts interchangeable.

In respect of axles and running gear changes made to improve efficiency, safety or environmental performance;

As above, this would include power-steering, dual line/servo, brake drum size increases and disk brake conversions. The Club would advise that any alteration to the original braking or steering system is checked for safety by a suitable competent individual, an MOT Test would meet this requirement.

In respect of vehicles that have been commercial vehicles, changes which can be demonstrated were being made when they were used commercially.

The club would advise that this should involve evidence such as period photography or other written evidence.

This guidance is only intended to determine the testing position of a substantially changed vehicle, not its registration.


 25 
 on: Yesterday at 01:05:50 PM 
Started by Henrik - Last post by 109+1
I have 3-4 wire spoked ones give me a shout if interested.  :tiphat

 26 
 on: Yesterday at 12:52:19 PM 
Started by Henrik - Last post by Henrik
@Wittsend - very good question will have to investigate, but I vaguely recall a clamp.......  :stars

Refurbishing an old version seems nice but then I first need to get my hands on a Banjo type wheel to refurbish......

 27 
 on: Yesterday at 12:37:40 PM 
Started by Henrik - Last post by Simon1959
I refurbished my steering wheel. It is a wire spoke type and it had quite a lot of cracks. I used milliput as advised by the forum to fill the cracks and then repainted in satin black and I have to say, it was a very rewarding job and it looks like new. I used VHT crackle paint on the centre to finish it off.

 28 
 on: Yesterday at 12:31:51 PM 
Started by Henrik - Last post by Henrik
Might be a good alternative, I have seen some repair kit.
Thanks!

 29 
 on: Yesterday at 12:30:20 PM 
Started by Henrik - Last post by Craggle
You can also get them refurbished. A good option if you have the later one piece fully moulded version.
https://www.steeringwheelrestoration.com/

Craig.

 30 
 on: Yesterday at 12:27:40 PM 
Started by Henrik - Last post by GHOBHW
there is also the option of getting your original steering wheel remoulded

https://www.charlesworthmouldings.co.uk/index.php/classic-car/13-classic-land-rover-steering-wheel-restoration


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