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[582LTR]

Is there a reason why wolf wheels with grabber tyres won’t fit on an 88 or even an 80 S1?

Thanks

Martin

[LandCasco]

They are more wider

[582LTR]

But are they too wide to fit? What is the biggest tyre that reasonably fits?

Martin

[Genem]

The wheels will fit, just be aware that the nuts will likely be flush on the end of the studs rather than have a bit poking out. Lots of Series vehicles rambling about quite happily on 235/85r16 tyres. How big are the ones you are considering ?  Go too big/wide and you'll have issues with rubbing at full lock etc. Personal view - Series vehicle "Monster Truck" is not a good look. 

MoD advice for fitting WOLF wheels on earlier Defender vehicles was to increase the torque setting, sorry I can't remember what the figure was. The series vehicles were long gone before WOLF was around ( mid-90s) so there is no comparative figure.

Odd to think that most WOLF vehicles are now almost 25 years old, they seem "new" to me.   

[twomokes]

The main issue is the centre of the wheel is thicker and "should" have longer studs fitted to the hub before fitting. Other than that they will fit an 88 or 80, I have a set on my 88. Also be aware they are heavier than other wheels.

[582LTR]

Thank you, I will pass this information on as I truly am ‘asking for a friend’.

Martin

[oilstain]

OT but when fitting Discovery 1 steel wheels which are also thick with large stud diameter I used these nuts - Part Number: 576103
These have a larger external size than and fill in the wheel stud holes and are shorter than standard nuts so some of the stud still sticks out. Would these work with Wolf wheels?

[GlenAnderson]

The short answer is that they will fit.

As said above, you will likely have to fit longer studs, and maybe change wheelnuts, depending on what you have at the moment.

Pattern Wolf copies aren’t as thick in the centre as genuine ones, so bear that in mind. Also, not all genuine ones are tubeless, so watch that doesn’t catch you out too.

[Genem]

Re "longer studs".

For a brief period I had WOLF rims on my 1971 lightweight. The nuts sat flush with the end of the studs, never loosened in service ….and I am still alive.

Can anyone explain what value there would have been in having longer studs, protruding beyond the end of the nut ? I genuinely don't understand the physics.

[w3526602]

Can anyone explain what value there would have been in having longer studs, protruding beyond the end of the nut ?

Hi,

It used top be common practice, in some "Eastern" countries,. to weld nuts on, to prevent them being stolen.  Perhaps tjhe longrr stud was to give two bites of the cherry?

Or maybe it was so that double ended nuts could be used, without failing the MOT? Were double-ended studs available in any size other than 9/16" dia?

602

[GlenAnderson]

Re "longer studs".

For a brief period I had WOLF rims on my 1971 lightweight. The nuts sat flush with the end of the studs, never loosened in service ….and I am still alive.

Can anyone explain what value there would have been in having longer studs, protruding beyond the end of the nut ? I genuinely don't understand the physics.

I think most MoT/DVSA examiners expect to see some thread protruding from the nut. Certainly, it’s engineering best practice to have bolts/studs sized such that between 1/4 and 1/2 of the diameter of the thread is proud.

[Genem]

^^^^ Yes, but why ?  I can't immediately think of any value in the practise. The extra, unused, length of thread adds nothing to the security of the nut, once tight ?

[Porkscratching]

I would agree with Gene, if you've got the stud going full length thru the nut, there's no difference at all...plus, the whole thing crucially tightens on the taper between wheel and nut anyway.
All a long stud would do is perhaps give a little more time till the nut falls off !...if they were that loose the wheel would be wobbling about fairly dramatically !

[GlenAnderson]

OK.

Nuts.

We all know that there are different grade bolts don’t we? That we use depending on load/cost etc.

Nuts for higher torque applications are longer, so you get more thread engaged and taking its share of the load. That’s why propshaft nuts are visibly deeper than their common or garden contemporaries.

To ensure that the nut is taking as much of the load on the fixing as it can, it’s good practice to ensure some of the thread is protruding. If, say, 10mm of thread is enough, but the nut is 12mm deep, then that extra 2mm offers 25% additional load carrying capacity. Whoever designed an assembly will have done so taking fixings into account. It doesn’t really matter how much protrudes, as long as some does. Anyone inspecting a vehicle would, IMHO, be perfectly entitled to feel that the fixing was compromised if the nut had an unused portion of thread.

To be honest, the type of nut that offers the greatest “issue” to our law enforcing brethren is the early “double ended” style which are very long anyway and also too small for the large size holes in later rims. If you have late wheels of any style on an early vehicle with small dia studs, you’re well advised to use the intermediate style of nut from a late 2A that takes the larger 1-1/4” (27mm) spanner. These are shallower than the double ended ones, and may on their own be enough to resolve the issue come inspection time.

As has been done to death here before now though, the early studs have proven to be marginal in service and are notorious for pulling out or otherwise failing.

longer, larger, later studs, nuts and Wolf rims look like this. With that amount of thread showing I would not anticipate any issues with authority.

[582LTR]

Thank you. I probably need to get out more before CV isolates me but that was helpful and interesting :-)

Martin