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[Bradley66]

I would agree with Gene, if you've got the stud going full length thru the nut, there's no difference at all...plus, the whole thing crucially tightens on the taper between wheel and nut anyway.
All a long stud would do is perhaps give a little more time till the nut falls off !...if they were that loose the wheel would be wobbling about fairly dramatically !

Because you loose a couple of threads on the end of the stud because of the lead , same in the nut . Having spent more years than I care to remember working in the aerospace industry , quite a lot of it as a Mechanical Design Engineer I have always left a minimum of 2 and preferably 3 threads clear . Its bad practice . 

[Genem]

Yes but.... "its good practise" and "it keeps the MoT man happy" are "reasons" but they fail the physics test. A deeper nut will of course be capable of taking a bit more torque but any extra, unused thread on the stud remains exactly that, surely, unused ?

so.... if you fit WOLF rims and the existing nuts run up the stud and clamp the rim at the right torque while the head of the stud is flush then..... put your feet up, have a beer and congratulate yourself on a job well done. If the nut does not run its full depth up the stud.....then is the time to seek out longer studs ?

#picky

   

[Eve]

It might be more to do with metallurgy than just physics 

[oilstain]

If I was to fit this type of closed end nut does the MOT man take the nuts off to chech the thread length
http://www.wrington.co.uk/land%20rover%20steel%20wheel%20nuts.html

[Bradley66]

All I can say is that its bad practice not to have thread protrusion . If you had a Nyloc nut and you didn't have any thread protruding through the nut , Is the that  nut locked  ?

https://www.engineersedge.com/hardware/minimum_threads_protruding_beyond_nut_13155.htm

[GlenAnderson]

If I was to fit this type of closed end nut does the MOT man take the nuts off to chech the thread length
http://www.wrington.co.uk/land%20rover%20steel%20wheel%20nuts.html

There is a reason why things like that are aftermarket accessories, and not factory fit. If you presented an HGV for an annual test with similar fitted then it would fail because the stud length couldn’t be visually checked. As Bradley66 points out, studs and bolts have a slightly tapered lead to their end threads, which is why it’s best practice to have a protrusion.

If you, or anybody else doesn’t think it’s important, then I’ve already wasted enough resources trying to explain, so I’ll call it a day.

[Genem]

Ah, having a protruding bit for a tapered lead-in makes sense. Still can't see what having actual full-size thread protruding adds to the game.

I think we are approaching something almost mystical, beyond "tradition" and "we've always done it that way"....

 

[diffwhine]

Might be worth pointing out that standard steel wheels should be torqued to 109Nm. The heavy duty Wolf rims have a higher torque of 170Nm so significantly higher. A good test of the integrity of the wheel studs... Not sure if the early studs could cope with that sort of load...

[Porkscratching]

Ok then grind a bit off the top face of the nuts..!!!   
 (..only kiddin' ! )