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Main Section => Welcome to our virtual Pub Meeting ... => Topic started by: Wittsend on June 22, 2022, 10:52:58 AM
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Taken from our local paper:-
A father-of-two died after a vehicle he was working under fell and crushed him, a court was told.
James McKenna, 47, who came from King's Lynn, was working on a Ford Ka in the rear garden of his home in Hospital Drove, Long Sutton, when the accident happened.
An inquest at Lincolnshire County Council's offices at Gilbert Drove in Boston heard the car shifted sideways when Mr McKenna used force with a spanner on June 29, 2021.
Mr McKenna’s widow Sally and his parents, Barry and Rosslyn, heard senior coroner Paul Cooper formally conclude that the death was as the result of an accident.
In a written statement heard in court, Mrs McKenna said her husband had gone out to start dismantling the car for scrap at 9.30am.
When he hadn’t come back into the house by 2.30pm to get ready to pick up their teenage children from school she went to look for him.
“I saw James’s legs protruding from under the front of the Ka,” she said. “His legs didn’t move and James didn’t respond to me calling out."
Mr McKenna was pronounced dead at the scene, with a later post mortem finding that he had died from traumatic asphyxia.
Jordan Eagle, a friend of Mr McKenna’s, went to remove the car that night at Mrs McKenna’s request but found it tough to budge.
He then saw the axle stand under the middle of the car, bent and embedded in the soft ground.
In a statement, he said he thought Mr McKenna had been using a spanner to help remove the catalytic convertor and the car had shifted when he used force, causing the axle stand to move and sink, and the car to fall off its jacks.
The coroner said it had been a “tragic accident”, adding: “You can always look back in hindsight and say if he'd been underneath the car on harder ground, he might still be here.
But unfortunately you can’t turn back the clock.”
Please be careful and check the stability of the vehicle, especially if using a jack.
If using a jack, don't go under - use quality axle stands on firm, flat ground.
:RHD
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I always sling a couple of spare wheels under the vehicle (if I remember!)
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And never use breeze/cinder blocks under a vehicle :shakeinghead
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That's very sad.
It's a shame the Ka doesn't have the same ground clearance as a Series. If it did he could have removed the cat without needing to jack up the vehicle.
We are lucky we can do a lot of maintenance jobs under our vehicles while they are sat on their wheels.
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A well known member of the LRSOC was killed by his own vehicle, so be very very careful working under any vehicle , and remember if you jack up a rear wheel on a Series LR, the vehicle can roll , and even in 4x4 it can move enough to dislodge a axle stand.
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A good friend was killed in similar circumstances last year. The vehicle was on ramps, rolled back and crushed him. That he was found by his partners young teenage daughter made the incident all the worse.
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I also had a friend who was killed in a similar way over 30 years ago, he was working on his JPS Capri at the bottom of there garden and was found the next morning underneath it, his girlfriend new he was at home and his parents thought he was at his girlfriends. very sad outcome for all, and something i will never forget, even if I'm jacking a vehicle up for a short time i always do it on hard standing and use axle stands and chock the wheels. Paul
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Hi,
NAAFI break at one on my RAF stations, one of my mates was walking to the crew room, when he heard a squeak from underneath a Standard Vanguard that was over a pit.
Investigation revealed one of the boys, in the pit, with one ear resting on a pit board. The car's back axle was resting on his other ear ... with the jack slowly sinking.
He was lucky!
Personally, I would be happier if there were jacking pads under the centres of both LR axles, so the car lifted without tilting, and substatial purpose built, trestles, that could be slid across, under both chassis rails. Once stability, in all four directions, is established, any of the four wheels could be lifted or dropped a small amount, without affecting stability.
The Mk,2 version would have a double trestle, standing on four bogeys, so it can be moved around. Probably not a good idea on a sloping floor.
602
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55 years ago I remember extricating the lad next door (an apprentice mechanic) from under the rear of his sisters mini. He had been sorting the rear brakes and had it up on the jack supplied with the car. He was sat on the ground with his legs under the car. He was too enthusiastic when trying to remove the brake drum and the car came off the jack trapping his legs. He was very fortunate to get away with cuts and severe bruising but he was unable to walk for a few weeks and had to be off work. I ended up finishing the job but I supported the car on blocks of wood and pushed the sparewheel and that road wheel under as belt and braces.
I am about to service our camper, it will be up in the air on axle stands, the 2 trolley jacks will still be in placee and there will be other secondary supports "just in case"
Peter
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The quality of jacks supplied with cars has declined over the years - not that they were much good any way. What with jacking points rusted away in the sills - pre MoT days :shakeinghead
Today's jacks will lift the vehicle to allow a wheel to be changed (just).
:-\ It's not safe to put any part of you under the vehicle.
As posted above ^^^ it's a good idea to shove a spare wheel under the vehicle just in case.
Also - you're not doing an F1 pit stop.
Take your time and check.
Stay safe ...
:RHD
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i always stack mine with bricks and wood on the chassis rails, along with anything else i can hold it up with, i use the solid paver bricks, really strong, even bricks have gotten worse though somehow, compared to the old solid bricks of the 1930s. good for if youre changing axles etc
the best jacks ive ever used, have been the discovery 1 jacks.
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On our offroading trip last saturday we had to help a chap in a discovery just after the ford at Goats bridge. It wa his second trip out and he had a puncture. The supplied disco bottle jack wouldnt lift it high enough to change the tyre. The tyres werent suitable for the trip up Fremmington Edge (which he had already done) or the track down Goats bridge.
Peter
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On our offroading trip last saturday we had to help a chap in a discovery just after the ford at Goats bridge. It wa his second trip out and he had a puncture. The supplied disco bottle jack wouldnt lift it high enough to change the tyre. The tyres werent suitable for the trip up Fremmington Edge (which he had already done) or the track down Goats bridge.
Peter
well, thats true for series as well, with the disco jacks, i always stack 2 solid pavers under it, to give it the height to even take the wheel off. but they are strong :RHD
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I was always advised that bricks are not suitable support as they can take little bending loads and stacking dry will virtually always put on a bending load . I use axle stands and large pieces of timber , joist ends and such , plus the spare if practical
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I have a jack for my land rover that looked like the disco guys jack but mine has a double lift ram, his was just a single lift
I also carry another bottle jack
Peter
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Timber always as extra security when jacking. Breeze blocks, concrete, bricks can always crack and crumble, wood blocks do not.
Ian F
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I would never advise using bricks/blocks no matter if they were blue engineering bricks - except in a dire emergency.
Unless I was steeling the wheels.
The local bus used to turn round opposite my mothers at the end of our road.
One day the driver crashed into her garden wall and flattened it.
A few days later someone stole all 4 wheels of an immaculate Audi Quatro which lived opposite - despite the fact it was parked next to their bedroom and their 2 big dogs heard nothing :thud
In the morning the car was neatly parked on stacks of brick from mum's garden.
A few days later the bus people came and rebuilt her wall.
:bus
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I have a 4x2 , removing a rear wheel or even jacking one of the ground removes the handbrake locking effect, I carry 3 chocks plus a screw jack plus a thick wooden jack pad , also a bit of 2x1 to jam the brake pedal down , the same caveats apply to a 4x4 in 2wd , but with those the 4wd option can provide a handbrake on two wheels ,all good fun aren't they,
Chris
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I was jacking up the front of a Lightweight.
I had some wood blocks under it.
Jack rolled backwards - and the whole weight of the not very lightweight Lightweight came down on my thumb, crushing it into a gap beteeen the blocks - and trapping me.
The jack handle had rolled away across the floor (WHY ARE JACK HANDLES ROUND? >:D).
I could hear the bones in my thumb cracking while I streteched desperately to reach the handle, and put the jack upright.
Got it jacked up eventually and released myself.
Two days in hospital as they put 2 metal pins and a screw in my thumb.
And the then wife chose that precise time to ask for a divorce! :shakeinghead
Took six months to get the thumb back working again.
26 years later I still have all the metal in my thumb and a long scar to forcibly remind me to take safety precautions (and not to get married again....)
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In the film 'Ice Cold in Alex' there is a sequence showing rocks shattering under the load of the lorry. They needed to jack the lorry up to change a spring and the jack slipped ,so the weight of it was on the pile of rocks which gradually shattered, until they could get the jack back under it. Moral: don't use rocks/bricks/ or any concrete blocks.
Mine props are or were wood as they fail slowly with a lot of creaking giving some warning. Concrete just shatters with no warning.
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Just an addendum to this debate - please correct me if I am wrong:
The fact that Series LRs have a transmission brake on the rear propshaft can catch you out if you are not fully aware of its limitations. With the transmission brake on AND both back wheels on the ground, the vehicle should not move.
However, if you jack up one back wheel the vehicles other back wheel can rotate via the diff, so the whole vehicle can move.
This must be considered when jacking up a Series LR.
Ian F
P.s. apologies if everyone understands this!
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That's a good point, and also true of any beam axled Land Rover (and Range Rover and Discovery)
Chris.
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Hi,
OT, but it might amuse you.
My mate, John the Punk, was silly enough to plunge his hand into a dog fight (GSD v big Lab), and had his thumb bitten off.
Argument at hospital ... docs wanted to knock him out, but John wanted to watch them nail it back on. His "convincing" appearance persuaded them to comply with his wishes. Actually, he was a "pussy cat" ... unless he caught you molesting a child. Children loved him, and their parents slowly came round to the same opinion.
602
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A very sad tale and one of which we should all take heed. As has been said, the jack and jacking points of modern cars are really only just about good enough for a tyre change.
I would advise all to take the belt and braces approach. Do not rely on bricks, blocks or anything else not designed for the job. These are ok for a secondary support but stands on a solid surface are what we need.
One caveat to this would be old tyres, max three high. These can be placed almost anywhere under the car and provided they are placed totally under, the car cannot fall off.
As an aside, the story states that 'a friend who came to remove the car later' found the collapsed axle stand'. Should their have not been some sort of official investigation who would have found said stand ?
That way any Coroners report could include recommendations for their use.
RiP.
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You just can't be too careful.
When rebuilding Dormy some years ago;
I had all the wheels off and was holding the full vehicle weight with 4 axle stands on the chassis. I slid underneath to remove a v.stubborn tow-bar bolt, giving it a good hard heave. When the whole vehicle above me shuddered back and forth I got out, recomposed myself and later used an angle grinder !
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Just an addendum to this debate - please correct me if I am wrong:
The fact that Series LRs have a transmission brake on the rear propshaft can catch you out if you are not fully aware of its limitations. With the transmission brake on AND both back wheels on the ground, the vehicle should not move.
However, if you jack up one back wheel the vehicles other back wheel can rotate via the diff, so the whole vehicle can move.
This must be considered when jacking up a Series LR.
Ian F
P.s. apologies if everyone understands this!
That's why you should always shift the red Hi/Lo lever into neutral when jacking up rear wheels. The hand brake then works on both prop shafts, which are locked together, and stop the front wheels from turning.
.W.
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Thanks for that Biloxi, that's something I didn't know.
Ian F
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The hand brake then works on both prop shafts, which are locked together, and stop the front wheels from turning.
That's not quite true. Nothing acting through the differential is ever "locked together". It still has limited movement owing to the free play between the splines, the crown and pinion, and the differential planet gears.
There are designs of handbrake that operate directly on the brake drums at the wheels which still do not "lock" the wheels, if the shoes are of the free-floating kind. My Volvo for example can still rock backwards and forwards a few inches even though the handbrake might be fully on - you can hear the shoes making a "clacking" noise as they rock between the end-stops.
I have always maintained that even the sturdiest axle stand is not fully secure. They can tilt, and they have a point at which they can fall over. They are secure unless jacking the vehicle at another point puts a sideways force at that point. That sideways force can come from wind-up of play in a differential, or from a trolley jack, which by design does not lift precisely vertically.
In my view even trolley jacks and axle stands are not fully safe, simply good up to a (somewhat vague) point.
Railway sleepers are about as safe as an ordinary person can achieve, or as a simple precaution, a spare wheel.
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Thanks Clifford. The handbrake on my Volvo 945 behaves just like that. I have a large stock of wood blocks, including several sleeper sized pieces, as well as 3 sets of axle stands.
On trolley jacks - you do have to be very careful as the jack approaches full height - they have a pronounced sideways movement which can easily topple axle stands on the other end of the vehicle.
Ian F
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A 72 year old man from Gosport Hampshire was changing the wheels on his motorhome last October when one of the scissor jacks gave way while he was underneath it. The vehicle landeion his head. He got himself free and was rushed to hospital where he wasn't expected to survive the serious injuries. He was in intensive care until December and eventually recovered.
Obviously no axle stands were used. He was very lucky.
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I had the misfortune to have to change a rear tyre on our old Romahome one Friday tea time on the Thelwall viaduct. I have never been so frightened in all my life. It has prompted 2 things. One I carry a can of gloopy stuff in each of our vehicles and I will never change a tyre at the side of the motorway again.
Peter
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I think now the preferred procedure is to recover the vehicle off the motorway - you and your passengers should bail out PDQ behind the barriers.
It's far too dangerous to be messing around on the hard shoulder - even if there is one :stars
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Agreed, my experience was 20 years ago but I still remember it vividly. Wife and kids back against the Armco spotting cars and trucks coming too close. Otherwise of Armco was a 200 foot drop
Peter
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Hi,
Two incidents seen near the Severn Crossing (2 mile suspension bridge, Wales into England.), plus one of my own.
1. Outside lane, everybody doing 70mph plus. Commer 15cwt (750kg) camper van parked on the central reservation, with the driver standing in front, one eye ball peering round the front corner, at the oncoming traffic.
I pulled into the Aust Service Station, and told a police driver ... it was the first he'd heard of it.
2. Another occasion, about two miles into England, late on a stormy night, no street lights, bucketing down with rain, no other traffic, me probably going faster than was sensible. Flash of white in my headlamps, on hard shoulder. Boy's face, probably about 12 years old. He looked somewhat miserable.
I phoned it in from the next roadside phone.
3. So I parked hard against the white wooden gate, which seemed sensible in the circumstances, but forgetting that the passenger in the front, and the three in the rear couldn't get the NS front door open. The signal-man, in his box above us shouted down that he had stopped the express.
British Rail Police later withdrew their NIP.
602.
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Good Morning All,
One of the reasons I'm installing this.
Regards
Richard
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Good Morning All,
One of the reasons I'm installing this.
Regards
Richard
Richie. You don't need a bigger jack ! 😀
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Hi,
If you use the transmission brake, even in 4WD, and lift BOTH front wheel of t he ground, like with a HI-lift jack, the front end can still fall sideways, as there is nothing to stop the wheels rotating in opposite directions .... unless you have chocked both wheels fore'n aft.
The Aunt (1959 S2 109") came with rear wheel cylinders that obviously had started life with hydraulic + hand expander capability, that had been sawn off. Maybe these were "specials" for "engineering plant" vehicles? The Aunt started life as a BBC Arial Erection vehicle. The Rover 3-litre saloon car (P5 ? ) seems to have had similar rear wheel cylinders, but retaining the complete cable/rod pulled cam plate. Unfortunately, the P5 pistons were too small diameter to be used on a Series ... something like 5/8" dia. (Which would give a nice firm pedal).
602
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Hi,
Looking at the problem, while wearing your Mr Sensible hat, IS there a sensible way of working on an "elevated" vehicle at the roadside .... or even in your garage?
Memory suggests that my MOT tester had some sort of device, involving small jacking devices, standing on the ramp, and some thick shims.
So what is available for the home mechanic? I am not convinced by axle stands ... too easy tp push them over, and while I accept that hydraulics are not ideal, I'd prefer a sturdy trolley jack to stands.
Railway sleepers and spare wheels do not come with KITE MARKS and SWL advice. ..... although I might accept an axle stand with a "channel" to accept a chassis rail, and welded to a wheel (preferably still wearing a tyre. Even better if it could be fitted under the front (or rear) cross members.
e just crept
I do not consider anywhere, on either front or rear axles, to be really ideal as a jacking point, or locaton for a stand. Some thoughts have just crept into my head, which may only interest us Series enthusiasts who don't mind spendina a few bob.
Devise a SAFE way of lifting either end of the truck using a FARM hi-lift jack. high enough to slide sturdy trestles (on bogies?) under/across both chassis rails, to provide stable equilibrium (as opposed to unstable equilibrium).
Back to the drawing board.
602
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The ulimate test surely is what would happen if you barged violently against the vehicle, like police breaking down a door, or you were heaving on a reluctant bolt with a scaffold pipe. If you can rock the vehicle at all then it becomes very dangerous, having some of the wheels on the ground and one on an axle stand allows just that.
The only everyday remedies in my opinion are railway sleepers. You'll never push a car by hand off a stack of 3 sleepers.
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This is my rig - tell me it's dangerous.
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/axle_stands.jpg)
On firm flat ground.
I use a trolley jack with a wood block under the diff and lift.
Each axle stand has a small block of wood which goes between the spring U-bolts.
(When I fit the springs I angle grind off the excess U-bolt ends. Less drag when green laning and easier to get the axle stand underneath.)
Both rear wheels suitably chocked fore and aft.
The vehicle is rock solid.
I wouldn't use any of those minimalist, folding axle stands :shakeinghead
Back in the day we used car ramps - do they still sell these ???
Great fun trying to drive up them - they often skidded along the road.
:jack
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Try driving a hgv tractor unit up the xl version of those ramps.
If you go too slow no grip and no go even with diff locked.
So a bit more momentum and they get spat out in all directions unless someone brave spots them like the foot of a ladder.
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Back in the day we used car ramps - do they still sell these ???
Great fun trying to drive up them - they often skidded along the road.
:jack
It was my friend Roberts anniversary last weekend, killed last year when the vehicle he was working on rolled back off the ramps and crushed him....
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A tragedy Gene, my condolences. I do still use ramps (together with jack's, axle stands, sleepers etc.). When using ramps I always insert some hefty pieces of timber into the ramp behind the wheels. This cradles the wheel in a shallow V if you can visualise it. And I always have a back-up whatever system I am using.
I did have some close encounters with accidents as a young and callow youth - this is often what it takes to make anyone be ultra cautious in future.
Ian F
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Hi,
Barbara learned the hard way that ramps are not "driver friendly". The exercise involved a Ford Mk.3. Zephyr. :thud
Over the years I have pondered, as you do .....
1. Ramps are too steep (I'm guessing 1:2? !:3?)
2. If you are lifting the non-driven wheels, there should be some way of imposing the weight of the driven wheel onto the ramp. I visualise a 100" strip, at ground level, behind the ramp, for the rear wheels. OK, not viable!.
3. It should be nigh impossible for the elevated wheels to roll over the "stop" at the blunt end of the ramp. But just as importantly, there should be something to deter the wheels from rolling backward down the slopes.
about the nearest I've got to any of the above, was to place 9" x2" planks between the ramps and the garage wall, tp preventing either or both ramps "cherry-pipping" away from the wheels trying to climb them.
From the 602 History Book ... RAF Sharjah (think Dubai) had a ramp for heavy trucks, built out of girders. One day an AEC Matador was unable to get a grip on the steel slopes, so the driver backed off, and took a run at it. Success! As soon as all four wheels were on the elevated level, he slammed on the brakes. The 3ft high structure gently folded underneath him. Ooops!
Luckily, we also had a big brick-built ramp, filled with concrete, but I never saw either of our Coles crane lorries, nor the Leyland Hippo 3000 gallon aircraft refueling bowser, use this ramp.
Which reminds me (OT) ... an Avro Anson, piloted by an Air Vice Marshall (probably visiting for a Sunday morning G&T, while keeping his "flying hours" up to date), departed, but returned 20 minutes later, to collect the petrol filler cap, which was still lying where it had fallen. I'm guessing a poor "erk" then had a couple of miserable weeks. (Surely it is the pilot's responsibility to do the pre-flight walk-around? Eg. Count the engines and kick the tyres)
602
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602 'cherry pipping' thats a new one to me, you live and learn.
I think the lesson here is do everything within your control to keep yourself safe as possible.
Re pit, we used a concrete incline ramp but its span got a bit sketchy as the inner edges broke up and the ramp itself splayed and had to be braced. Inspection pit in the floor was preferred but they are not ideal depending on there depth and what tasks you are aiming to do.
Re wheel when they are on, in gear, and chocked belt and braces.
One of the biggest scares was when we had a vw bus in the air via a chain block and tackle around the towbar, not my idea i might add.
Trying to lower the vw in a controlled way the worm and cog hit a worn spot and paid out unexpectedly dropping 2ft before yanking to a halt. It was promptly put in the skip. Maybe henry cole can make a lamp out of it!
Growing up around hgvs and tractors, keep clear of unpropped body was drummed in to me, that goes for tipping cabs too.
Assume everything is going to roll and drop and take measures to make yourself space should that happen.
I do like my screw bottle jacks harvey frost and so on, and my old lake and elliot hydraulics. Epco too.
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and my old lake and elliot hydraulics.
Ah Lake & Elliot.
A famous Braintree firm, just close to me.
I still have the trolley jack bought for my 21st birthday by friends who were apprentices at Lakes. (The seals went a long time ago!)
Sadly, gone the way of much of British manufacturing.
Other famous Braintree Firms: Bradburys 4-post lifts, and Crittall Windows - still going in some form or another, somewhere....?)
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I believe inflatable bags can be used to lift a crashed aircraft.
... and an aircraft (aluminium) cannot be chopped up with a "GAS AX" (oxy-acetylene torch) ... only ferrous metal will burn.
You should not stuff a punctured tyre with grass ... grass will not hold 25psi.
602
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What happened to the bags that were put under vehicles and inflated by connecting them to the exhaust then with the engine running obviously were inflated and raised the vehicle?
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What happened to the bags that were put under vehicles and inflated by connecting them to the exhaust then with the engine running obviously were inflated and raised the vehicle?
They are still available, but tend to be too expensive for most. Those intended for the domestic after-market tend to be cylindrical, and the lifted vehicle can be quite unstable. They work best when under a flat area, so don't work well under a chassis rail, outrigger, or axle / spring.
The ones used in the commercial world (Fire and Rescue) are square in plan and multilayer bellows in format.
I suspect these give a much more stable lift.
Yes, I have used the cylindrical ones on different private vehicles, so I've seen the 'characteristics' at first hand, but in one case it was the only available solution as, when lifted, the flat bottomed vehicle could be pushed sideways so the wheels found firm ground. The bag rolled over as the vehicle was pushed.
Regards.
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A bit like trying to stand on a large inflated sausage-shaped toy in a swimming pool. It sounds easy, actually impossible. :)
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Funnily enough I recently found mine during a garage clear up.
I would use it under my SD1 Vitesse which was very low. Inflated very quick if it was secured on the exhaust correctly.
Of course a proper jack was then used, then stands if working under.
Reminded me of helping a friend who was having his SD1 taken away by the 'scrapman'.
LHR wheel had a good tyre which he wanted swapping. He did not have the Rover jack so we puts a scissor jack under and starts lifting away.
The car starts to lift then stops, but the jack kept going up ! Open the rear door, and there is the jack :stars
Couldn't get the jack out or the car up. Luckily I was able to use my high lift in the rear jacking tube.
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602 'cherry pipping' thats a new one to me, you live and learn.
Hi,
English is a living language!
Hold a "still slippery" cherry pip between you finger and thumb, and squeeze. With practice, you can become fairly accurate.
Alan, I agree that your "man-size" axle stands should be stable. In theory, tripods are inherently stable, but a big square block is probably "stabler" (living language) if the floor is flat.
I once slid a similar heavy stand across the garage floor, forgetting about momentum. The leg of a workbench got involved ... and I lost a finger nail.
Me? I would like a small axle stand, with a WIDE VEE, welded to a car wheel, preferably with a tyre. I would not intend to use that wheel as a spare, unless no other option .... shades of Bodecea (sp?)
602
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Either braver than me or absolutely 💯 percent stupid
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Another angle
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Is that a body underneath?
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This is quite an infamous picture off the internet - a Darwin Awards contender.
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Is that a body underneath?
Yes it's a screen shot taken from a video :stars
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This is quite an infamous picture off the internet - a Darwin Awards contender.
It is in fact a standard way of propping up a boat that has been hauled out of the water for winter storage.
Amazingly, boats never do fall over doing this, and stay stable for months on end over winter while they are repainted or repaired.
In fact, worse than that, you have to move the prop slightly otherwise a patch is left unpainted, so you just put your back against it for a few seconds and slide the piece of wood along :)
Of course you can play it safer by knocking up a pair of V-shaped wedges from old boards, but they are really just the first method with a few nails.
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I believe inflatable bags can be used to lift a crashed aircraft.
... and an aircraft (aluminium) cannot be chopped up with a "GAS AX" (oxy-acetylene torch) ... only ferrous metal will burn.
You should not stuff a punctured tyre with grass ... grass will not hold 25psi.
602
Apparently, stuffing grass into a punctured tyre is a 'proven' way to get you out of trouble in an emergency.
Proven by whom I do not know ? ???
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Apparently, stuffing grass into a punctured tyre is a 'proven' way to get you out of trouble in an emergency.
Proven by whom I do not know ? ???
Actually it works - I've done it using very dry hay once. the biggest problem was breaking the bead and the getting the tyre back on the rim afterwards. Did 35kms like that, but the wheel felt horrible. Tyre overheated anyway and had to be scrapped, but it got us to the next stop and that's all that mattered. All you are really trying to replicate is a Runflat rim inside a tyre.
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Actually it works - I've done it using very dry hay once. the biggest problem was breaking the bead and the getting the tyre back on the rim afterwards. Did 35kms like that, but the wheel felt horrible. Tyre overheated anyway and had to be scrapped, but it got us to the next stop and that's all that mattered. All you are really trying to replicate is a Runflat rim inside a tyre.
If anyone wants 5 run-flats, I just happen to have a set, found inside a set of ex MoD tyres/rims.
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Nooooooooooo!!!!
Never ever again will I fit runflats / RodGuard or any other horrible tyre saver!
Pass them off on some other gullible mug! :tiphat
Collars for the cattle maybe??? Possibly just a tad heavy.
All joking apart, anybody who is restoring a Snatch Defender might be interested. Maybe one for an advert on Milweb?
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That's a thought !
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Either braver than me or absolutely 💯 percent stupid
That puts me in mind of a recovery technique called casting.
In my experience blocks crumble, even worse if unevenly loaded in compression.