S2C Forum Archives
Main Section => Workshop Wisdom => 602's Musings => Topic started by: MikeT on November 28, 2022, 09:27:40 AM
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I need to order battery clamps,
I was going to purchase the clamps with the 2 screws on the top to secure the cable and crimp the cables onto the lugs as I have access to a industrial crimp. Looking for advice is this the correct way to go or should I be looking to solder?
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I for one do not understand what you mean.
You were going to go with terminals that clamp around the battery posts, the clamps having two screws to secure the cables.
You were going the crimp the cables onto the lugs, --- what lugs? Perhaps picture them to help clear this terminology muddle.
Only after the 'lug' riddle is clarified can the question around the crimp / solder preference be addressed.
As a general guidance, unless you have historical experience with soldering, possibly including professional standard training (I have both) I would plump for crimping, especially given the modern availability of crimpers, purely manual or hydraulic.
Regards.
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I fitted battery clamps with a separate post terminal. The main cables have a ring fitting which simply bolts on the post.
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1) Buy those. There's better but they will do.
2) Clean your copper as the other thread.
3) Dip in plumber's flux.
3) Clean those clamps within an inch of their lives.
4) Dip in plumber's flux.
4) Clamp down tinned-copper.
5) Make sure you've shrink-wrap tubing on before the final-fix
6) Blow-lamp to joints, feed solder in.
7) Shrink-wrap the lot.
You have a professional 'solder and clamp' joint. It will outlast you.
If everything is spotless, shiny and covered in flux you've no more need professional training than you need instruction on how to *&%$
You have joined the 'Soldering illuminati' Never lash-in a crimp again.
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I too don't properly understand what you are trying to do.
I have seen several different kinds of clamp:
1) as pictured. You twist the end of the cable so that it forms a tight bundle small enough to push inside the tube without odd strands refusing to go in, then tighten the two screws. In my experience that is not very satisfactory. It works well on a small scale in a plug or a light switch, but tends just to split up the strands so that it ends up only being properly held by some of the strands.
It does work well however if you you firstly run solder into the whole twisted end so that the screws are squeezing a solid lump of soft metal.
2) Solder the cable onto a flat metal lug which you then bolt onto the securing clamp.
3) Solder the cable into a covered clamp that has a taper that matches the battery terminal, twist it a bit to grind the mating lead surfaces, and secure with a small self-tapping screw into the end of the battery terminal.
4) Any of these but crimping the lead clamp rather than soldering.
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I have seen battery cables made by crimping a tube onto the end of the cable then that gets pushed inside the battery clamp and the two screws tightened.
I have clamp on cable ends the same as in your photo and haven't had a problem with them. Many people advise against soldering cables as it creates a stress point where the rigid solder ends and the flexible cable starts. Only an issue if you expecting the cable to be flexed off course.
Craig.
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I will try to clarify what I need to do.
Fit new battery leads, one end will need a battery clamp and the other end will need a lug ring.
I was asking how good are the battery clamps, as in the picture and advice on the lug ring should it be crimped or soldered? I have a industrial crimper but if crimping the lug onto the cable is not advisable then I will solder them on.
Picking up on what the previous reply's are. Soldering is best.
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Have a search online for "Soldering Vs Crimping"
Crimping is not done just because it's faster, it does have a number of advantages and how many soldered joints do you see on modern cars?
Having said that, I solder smaller connections on car wiring as well but mainly because I'm never satisfied with the result from hand crimping tools.
Craig.
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Professional crimping is fine, but beyond the reach/scope of most home mechanics - as I posted earlier.
Rubbish crimping vs rubbish soldering ???
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I bought a very good hand crimping tool made by Laser from a local motor factor recently. I used it when making an earth wire for the tank fuel sender and it's does a good job and feels well made.£10
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I usually use clamps just like these.
I usually tin the wire then fit to the clamp. A good swill with bakers fluid. For a bit of extra bite I get some copper pipe. Snip off a think curved section (1/8 th of the circumference)
Knock that in the clamp ontop of the wire so your two screws have something to bite down onto. Then warm it all up so the solder flows. Solder the ends up done👍
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I usually use clamps just like these.
I usually tin the wire then fit to the clamp. A good swill with bakers fluid. For a bit of extra bite I get some copper pipe. Snip off a think curved section (1/8 th of the circumference)
Knock that in the clamp ontop of the wire so your two screws have something to bite down onto. Then warm it all up so the solder flows. Solder the ends up done👍
Hallelujah. For a high current application, and in this case we can be running 300Amps, best solder. For low current crimp. But as Wittsend says, if you're going to do either badly it won't matter.
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Fit new battery leads, one end will need a battery clamp and the other end will need a lug ring.
Hi Mike,
I never throw away old battery leads, as I reckon a factory crimp is better than anything that I can produce. The difficult bit is searching my big box of cables for the right length cables with the required terminals.
I don't know the price of Halfords new cables, or even ifvthey stock them, so best to shufti the Vehicle Auto Electrics catalogue that you keep in your Technical Library, especially for the occasion.
If your battery posts and clamps get hot, or even release smoke, you have a poor connection. If the soleniod makes a "Gattling" noise, it's probably the battery Earth cable failing to carry the amperage. I've only heard that twice in 60 odd years.
602
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If a good crimp can be achieved then that would suffice in my book . After all most yacht and sailing dinghy rigging is crimped and I’ve never had one part , even with ‘smooth ‘ rod type rigging
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Arrrgh! :-\
Tinning stranded wire before fitting it to a screwed clamp is a no-no for several reasons, not just the stress one mentioned. Best way for a screwed connection is to crimp a ferrule on first, then screw it up, next best is plain wire. If you're worried about corrosion, smear it with Vaseline or silicone grease.
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Arrrgh! :-\
Tinning stranded wire before fitting it to a screwed clamp is a no-no for several reasons, not just the stress one mentioned. Best way for a screwed connection is to crimp a ferrule on first, then screw it up, next best is plain wire. If you're worried about corrosion, smear it with Vaseline or silicone grease.
Agreed. If you're not to end-feed the now clamped-copper with solder, there'd be little point tinning.
Do it anyway you like, copper is soft. In an automotive environment with vibration and air to it, grease will slow the process, then it will move. Eventually the joint will go HR. Put a meter across any joint done in that fashion, and you'll see it.
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Hi,
At the RAF driving school, near Blackpool, the trainee drivers were required to do a daily inspection, which included checking the battery levels ... which somehow always required topping up.
Distilled water got splashed everywhere, which resulted in the battery terminals growing a blue "fungus".
One morning, I noticed smoke pouring out of the driver's window on an Austin Loadster (sp?) three-ton truck, with the trainee driver still sitting at the wheel. With "true aplomb and joi de vivre" I leapt into the passenger door, leaned over, opened the driver's door, shoved the driver out, closely followed by his seat, and ripped the battery lead off the battery, before continuing to my Crew Room, and a waiting mug of tea. I left the Sergeant Instructor, who hadn't yet arrived, to sort out the paperwork. I doubt that the trainee could have told him who was responsible.
I like to have a battery isolating switch on my Land Rovers, preferably the type that break the circuit by pulling a lanyard to eject the red lever. I believe the RAC Blue Book requires such a switch on competition cars, with a big yellow arrow pointing at the switch's location. Can anybody expand on that?
602
PS, Which reminds me, seeing as it's getting near Xmas .... I got into a "mistletoe clinch", at RAF Weeton, with the strapping WRAF Scammel Explorer driver ... an experience to be remembered, with a smile. :cheers
More recently (last week), feeling low, I asked the leader of Barabara's Care Team, for a hug. I felt much better afterwards. I mentioned it to Barbara ....
"Good!" was her only comment.
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The growth on the terminals is not caused by distilled water. batteries of that age were not sealed but had vents and they "gassed" to the air when being charged. That gas contained sulphuric acid whic condensed on to the top of the battery and the surrounding area. Filling up and splashing made the acid particles damp or wet which turned it back to liquid sulphuric acid which ate everything around. A thorough washing down of the area dilutes the acid to make it harmless
The more knackered the battery or the harder the charge the more they gas.
Peter
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PS, Which reminds me, seeing as it's getting near Xmas .... I got into a "mistletoe clinch", at RAF Weeton, with the strapping WRAF Scammel Explorer driver ... an experience to be remembered, with a smile. :cheers
Assuming the clinch was with a young lady, she must definitely have been strapping to handle a Scammel Explorer. The last time I drove one, it took two of us to drive it. Some lady you found there... Or am I not allowed to comment on such things these days?
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I am clearly strange.
I just shove the end of the wire into the battery clamp, tighten the two screws - and get on with my life.
I am prepared to change my appalling attitude - but only when a healthy battery fails to start my Land Rover. :cheers
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I am clearly strange.
I just shove the end of the wire into the battery clamp, tighten the two screws - and get on with my life.
I am prepared to change my appalling attitude - but only when a healthy battery fails to start my Land Rover. :cheers
I'm appalled.
This brings me to ask, does rear-view mirror grease still come in pint tubs, or do they make you buy the whole gallon?
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I'm appalled.
This brings me to ask, does rear-view mirror grease still come in pint tubs, or do they make you buy the whole gallon?
You can buy it in little tubes these days.
Just bought some the other day.
It's terrific stuff!
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Hi,
From choice, I will used a (new or old) battery cable with a 3/8" dia ring terminal on each end, and use one end to go under the nut of a bare clamp (new).
No soldering, no crimping on my part, and sometimes "politic" to disconnect by undoing the nut and leaving the clamp on it's terminal.
I seldom throw a battery cable away, unless it is one of those sacrificial types that were intended to be held on by a self-tapping screw. I'm glad to say that I haven't seen one of those in donkeys years ... I usually finished up with a stripped hole in the battery post.
602
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I seldom throw a battery cable away, unless it is one of those sacrificial types that were intended to be held on by a self-tapping screw. I'm glad to say that I haven't seen one of those in donkeys years ... I usually finished up with a stripped hole in the battery post.
602
I still have that sort on my S1, and it has worked Ok for the last 35 years , but you have to treat it with a lot of respect and not use the screw to draw the connector onto the post . I just like the idea of keeping it original. To be frank I have more trouble with the ones on modern vehicles, especially if it has been in at the local Dealer.
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I still have that sort on my S1, and it has worked Ok for the last 35 years , but you have to treat it with a lot of respect and not use the screw to draw the connector onto the post . I just like the idea of keeping it original. To be frank I have more trouble with the ones on modern vehicles, especially if it has been in at the local Dealer.
Agreed, Derek.
This one on my IIA has never given me any trouble - and seems to resist furring-up better.
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Hi all,
I installed OJOP quick release terminals.
See: https://www.ojopsweden.com/battery-connectors/
This is not true to the original :o but it is very reliable and convenient.
KR.
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We have those on the leisure battery fitted to our camper
Peter
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I use those quick release clamps on my leisure batteries, but not sure I'd trust them on the starter battery - they seem a little flimsy compared to 'standard' clamps, especially the wire clamp - or it is possible I've bought cheap ebay ones and the ones in the link are better quality ???
Robin.
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The quick release clamps posted earlier do not give a current carrying capacity for any of the items would have thought that detail would have been listed.