Post by: kev on January 15, 2020, 02:13:25 PM
It's never really been any good, the box is, I think from an old Range Rover, the pipework touches the underneath of the vehicle etc., it exits through the rear PTO hole, and Ive always had trouble with fumes entering the vehicle, which I suppose I live with, however I'm not happy for Mrs. Kev to be exposed to toxic fumes.
The point of this post, is to ask if anyone in the East Midlands say, would be able to make a decent leak and rattle free system? - Obviously I'd pay, but I can't justify the 500 odd Quid for a custom made one.
I've got the downpipe etc., but it ends after that.
Failing that, how did others build theirs?
Cheers.
Post by: oilstain on January 15, 2020, 03:00:41 PM
https://www.steveparkers.com/conversion-exhausts-bespoke-exhausts-for-land-rover-engine-conversions/
I just bought some bits and the rest came from a Vauxhaul :agh
Post by: samuria on January 15, 2020, 03:45:06 PM
which one to use and just clamped on. my exhaust just exits behind the near side door
and is a straight through pipe, and is not to loud.
been like that for last 18 months
Post by: scotty on January 15, 2020, 06:17:38 PM
Post by: oilstain on January 15, 2020, 06:28:25 PM
i had mine made from a ford transit down pipe. it was posted on the old forumDid the Transit system fit with the turbo?
which one to use and just clamped on. my exhaust just exits behind the near side door
and is a straight through pipe, and is not to loud.
been like that for last 18 months
I ask as having been told it wouldn't, but for the future which model Transit :tiphat
Post by: Smokey 11a on January 15, 2020, 06:34:06 PM
Post by: genocache on January 15, 2020, 07:44:25 PM
Post by: 100+9 on January 15, 2020, 07:47:00 PM
Quote
Obviously I'd pay, but I can't justify the 500 odd Quid for a custom made one.
Not sure what you're expecting to get. If it's any good it's £4-500. My local zhorst bloke did a special for me recently. Came in at £350, which for the skills and kit used was fair. That was a half-system. I'm curious, what did you think the job worth? SP's system looks pretty cheap for a limited-run item. Engine-swaps, done right, are never cheap.
Post by: samuria on January 15, 2020, 07:56:04 PM
Did the Transit system fit with the turbo?i can't remember which model transit it was ??? but got it from
I ask as having been told it wouldn't, but for the future which model Transit :tiphat
a local exhaust warehouse. was about £15. clamped it to part of the old
down pipe.
Post by: gvo416j R.I.P. on January 15, 2020, 07:57:40 PM
I have just replaced the 8 year old tail pipe [cheapo *addocks] with another one after it broke where the join was welded to the pipe
Post by: samuria on January 15, 2020, 08:13:32 PM
https://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/topic,60150.0.html
Post by: samuria on January 15, 2020, 08:15:53 PM
grandadrob. and the part no. for the transit pipe was fe536
Post by: Raybis on January 15, 2020, 08:51:07 PM
Post by: Lurch on January 15, 2020, 09:50:12 PM
Post by: GlenAnderson on January 15, 2020, 10:19:32 PM
My Steve parkers been on for best part of 10 years....
I too went for the Steve Parker system. I bought and fitted mine in 2007. It comprised of a bespoke front and centre section, and a standard 109” V8 rear. I’m on my third rear box, but they’re as cheap as chips and all the major players can supply them. The front section is still perfect. The intermediate pipe has developed a pinhole adjacent to where I had it supported with an additional clamp. I’d have no hesitation in recommending them.
That said, I’d like to replace it entirely with a bespoke stainless system, and will do so when funds allow. I’m budgeting on £4-600.
Post by: Matt on January 16, 2020, 07:36:14 AM
Post by: oilstain on January 16, 2020, 08:28:12 AM
Exhaust downpipe
The Discovery uses a cast stub pipe bolted to the turbo which points in entirely the wrong direction. There is very little clearance between the turbo and the passenger side footwell, so you need a downpipe that curves down and inwards to clear the footwell and chassis rail. If you have plenty of time and good fabrication skills you can make one, but most people will find it easier to buy one. I use the downpipe sold by Steve Parker Land Rovers and have always found that these fit very well. Make sure you follow the instructions, especially the bit about relocating the clutch pipe and shortening the downpipe mounting studs. If you forget to shorten the studs, you will find that in order to change the starter motor you have to remove the manifolds. Incidentally, when removing the old cast stub, since the studs need to be shortened anyway, save yourself some time and just cut the nuts off with a disc cutter. They tend to be very tight and often take the studs out with them when you try to undo them.
Steve Parker downpipe in place, showing where the clutch pipe and bracket have been relocated to the inner edge of the footwell. The battery cable isn't as close to the downpipe as it looks, but you need to make sure it is secured well out of the way.
Post by: oilstain on January 16, 2020, 08:32:45 AM
Post by: Calum on January 16, 2020, 09:02:50 AM
The first system was on when I bought the vehicle, I think it was about 2 years old. It must have lasted another 3 years before the pipes entering the back box rotted out. Parkers are local to me so I went in and got the new rear sections and proceeded to fit until I found other bits rusted together and seized. I bit the bullet and got the other bits (so a full system). This fell to bits last year or so (so probably 5 years old) when the down pipe section (the one made from all the bits welded together) just disintegrated and left a gaping hole. This time I bought a stainless system since I can now afford to, but still bought it in two halves to make it a bit more bearable! I fitted the front sections and then a few months later the tailpipe fell off so it's now a full stainless system and I must say looks great, fits well and I am very happy with it. My only gripe is the same with most stainless systems in that the flanges are mild steel and they don't sell stainless hangers for it either (I'll probably end up making some next time they rust away)
In fairness the 88" has been used daily for the ten years I have had it, in all weathers and doesn't get hosed down underneath as much as I'd like to. Current commute to work is around 15-20 miles each way (depending on route) so the exhaust does get some use
Post by: oilstain on January 16, 2020, 09:09:43 AM
auction: #292923365726:tiphat
Post by: kev on January 16, 2020, 07:21:03 PM
I used a 300 tdi rear box, exits on the near side behind the wheel, went to my local garage and raided the scrap bin and made up the centre section, been good for 10 years with the odd repair due to hitting it off road. If you fit a 300 tdi rear box it needs the tail pipe cutting down Also helps if you can weld.Did you use the intermediate box too?, and are the Disco' and Defender boxes the same?