S2C Forum Archives
Main Section => Welcome to our virtual Pub Meeting ... => Topic started by: Wittsend on October 01, 2019, 10:54:13 AM
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New month, new day.
it's sloe gin making season :wine3
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/Smileys/wittsends/battery.gif)
Discovered the main battery is toast - defunct :thud
New type 019 ordered....
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Ordered the paint! ( Tekaloid)
Three inner tubes and two light guards
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Should be "what has your series 2 done to you today"....
In my case it has left an enormous deep scratch down my back. Damn split pin on the side step pin!
Craig.
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Refitted the rebuilt Tex-Magna indicator switch. Many thanks to Rory for donating me a replacement chrome lever. You are very generous and I owe you a beer.
Also the wiper motor and mechanism.
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..... I did fit it the right way up!
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Drove it from Leominster to Chaceley Stock for S2 Severn Valley group pub meet then on to St Owen's Cross where I'm dogsitting!
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It's a nice sunny day down here - so went for some greenlaning testing out my new super battery.
(Ordered yesterday teatime - arrived at 10:30am today :first )
(https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/forum_files/ringland.jpg)
(https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/forum_files/pig_city.jpg)
:RHD
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And a good start to the October POM ???
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Just a gentle ride out to meet Bottom Box for a pub lunch, then back to Argos to collect our new bread maker.
Peter
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Started to deal with a knock from the front swivel. Wear in the Railko. The bits arrived today, unfortunately, when I took it apart, I found the drive shaft U/J was U/S :agh There were bits of U/J bearing in the bottom of the swivel. Then I found the inner part of the drive shaft was showing signs of wear.
I didn't have a U/J in stock, so ordered that. I then thought, hum, I have a spare drive shaft, but it's 24 spline. Luckily, the inner part has the same part number - so I can rebuild the drive shaft by combining pieces.
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Denso taped the springs. For information you will need 3 rolls of 50x10mm
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It's a nice sunny day down here - so went for some greenlaning testing out my new super battery.
(Ordered yesterday teatime - arrived at 10:30am today :first )
(https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/forum_files/ringland.jpg)
(https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/forum_files/pig_city.jpg)
:RHD
Nice pigs there Mr W... :cheers
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roll down my Hood for autumn ;)
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Denso taped the springs. For information you will need 3 rolls of 50x10mm
I'm going to guess you did not mean 3 rolls of 10mm wide tape.
Perhaps 3 rolls 50mm wide, 10 metres long?
Regards.
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A tad pedantic, but yes. Should really put one's specs on when tiiipinng. The Cromford and High Peak books have been found. I'll send them on next week.
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Used as the works van to collect the serviced and repaired church lawn mowers.
Enjoyed driving it in the rain. Both wipers worked well and the heater did its job.
Peter
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Hi :tiphat Drove our new series 2 from Rugby to our home ;) a lovely drive it was too :RHD :cheers Paul Tash n Barney
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Recycling...
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Works van again, delivered the mowers collected the other day then went in it to son's house to fit a radiator.
I do enjoy driving it.
Peter
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Drove from Leominster to Portbury (S2 club museum visit to Oakham Treasures) then back up to Ross-on-Wye area for more dogsitting.....
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Started to get Buddy (more) watertight.
Only completed one side but getting there...
Starting & finish photos attached
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Got round to fitting the Boomslang wiring harness for the headlights yesterday. Just staring to go dark as i was finishing off but they do look brighter. Will find out when I'm off to work at half five in a morning in it.
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I didn't make the "hub seal tester" grade yet... but on friday and saturday I put new seals on 3 of my 4 hubs, repacked and reset the bearings, etc.
I purchased 3 different types of hub seal from Paddocks, as an experiment.
1 is the ~£4 RTC3510G old-school OEM metal casing with leather lip. They look really old, but came nicely wrapped in oil-saturated paper. A pain to fit, even with liberal pre-greasing on the seal surfaces, because it was so stiff to get seated that I had to use the 1st bearing nut to gradually screw it on. I am hoping that it wasn't ripping in any way as it went on. I was really glad I took digital pictures of the exact bearing nut positions before dismantling for reference, because the new seal friction made it really hard to feel what the bearings were doing as I was re-tightnening them. I just put the nuts back to the original positions but tighter 1/12th of a turn compared to "before" and it seemed about right (play gone when shaking the wheel violently after everything re-installed and back on the ground).
The 2 other seals are "Corteco RTC3510G?C? 1510065" which has a more rubber/plastic construction also for ~£4, and a much cheaper Karsons RTC3510 "Plastic" for £1.50.
Is there any opinion as to what seal type is the most effective these days? Is the "OEM Leather" better, or is it really only for purists these days, with better performance given from the more modern plastic-case alternatives?
I wrote down which seals went in which hubs so whichever starts oozing first will not be getting purchased again!
Can I get the "hub-seal tester" rating now ? ;)
Today I am brewing 6 gallons of IPA and looking out at my vehicle from the kitchen under its lean-to as the rain pours down.
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Ive used the Corteco seals which have been fine so far, 4 years ish...
I tried one of the current available leather jobs, rubbish, impossible to get fitted properly, pulled it straight out again binned and replaced as above....
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Hmmm. so my experience is not the only one. My leather one is on, but I didn't drive more than 100 yards since fitting it. I'll keep a close eye for oozes!
Maybe my other leather/metal one is for the mantepiece as a piece of senteminentalism, not for fitting!
Andrew
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Leather seals should be soaked in oil overnight before fitting
Peter
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Yes did that of course, but still hopeless, didn't fit properly etc etc, (and I'm not a complete mug when it comes to fitting parts ! )
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Is there any opinion as to what seal type is the most effective these days? Is the "OEM Leather" better, or is it really only for purists these days, with better performance given from the more modern plastic-case alternatives?
Yes there is ... from Land Rover themselves as they changed to the more modern Plastic/rubber type Corteco seals when they were invented. - Corteco are a decent brand/quality and way better than cheapo copies.
Back in the day, the metal and leather seals were the only ones available.
Use the modern plastic/rubber upgrades :first
People have problems with these seals - they forget that the "land", the surface the seal runs on is just as, if not more important than the seal itself.
Unless you know for sure (i.e. you've recently replaced the land/distance piece) fit new lands/distance pieces - it's false economy not to.
:RHD
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New, ethanol proof fuel hoses installed. The last hoses I installed around 14 months ago from a local car factors had started to break down.
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New month, new day.
it's sloe gin making season :wine3
It is indeed, even for traditionalists like me - we had our first frost last week. It is also damson jam season.
Too wet for much, but contemplating what to do about my lower doors. The originals are beyond repair but the replacements I bought from Paintman are considerably different. Whilst I am sure they will 'fill the hole' they are not replicas by any stretch, so trying to figure whether there is enough there to work from and modify or whether to keep looking for a pair of original ones.
Alec
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Not today but couldn't get the reply posted with the pics attached, had to edit ?
Moved 4 of these: -
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Went to try to get some good brakes. Checked all four wheels for oil on brake shoes. Was undoing the last wheel nut when this happened. Grrrrr. :dog :dog
Now trying to get the broken bit out. At least it did not snap off flush.
David.
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Went to try to get some good brakes. Checked all four wheels for oil on brake shoes. Was undoing the last wheel nut when this happened. Grrrrr. :dog :dog
Now trying to get the broken bit out. At least it did not snap off flush.
David.
Ground off the peening on the back and then welded on a handy worn plough part. That shifted it! Threads now cleaned and second hand stud inserted. Not too much fuss after all.
David.
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Finished rebuilding my bulkhead :-*
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Thanks to Alex we now have a few more bits, Back door Bonnet etc
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Got my speedo back from repair at "Speedy Cables" in south Wales. Took about 3-4 months turnaround but worth the wait. My speedo looks like new. I'm not quite sure how they've done it but my input shaft looks to be repaired nicely, the outer metal case is I think my original, but somehow amazingly de-rusted and cleaned up. If it's not my original it looks original. Glass has either been replaced or magically polished to removed some scratches. Black glass retainer ring ?repainted? or at least cleaned. New rubber dashboard "washer" too. Looks like they managed to leave in my original odometer (I was a bit worried they'd just replace the whole innards with some new assembly, but I don't think they have). Haven't tried it in the vehicle yet, but for the £110 it seems like good value.
Andrew
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Put in a Roverdrive, noted the change in my maintenance log, and realized I've driven it only 600 miles in each of the last 2 years!
:'(
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Put in new spark plugs. Now running with no back firing but won't tick over any sense. Next job clean out the carb
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Took Bobs Glow plugs out!
So that's what a 21mm spanner is for?
They all work, but are 9v running on a 12v system? The wiring looks to be very thin, tested each one and they work so have to put them back and rewire them.
Next stop the fuel system, doesn't leak but lets loads of air in.
The big fat wire feeds the first plug then small wire to the rest? I do wonder what this would do to the plugs?
Rivet counters look away now
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Glow plugs ...
They all work, but are 9v running on a 12v system? The wiring looks to be very thin, tested each one and they work so have to put them back and rewire them
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The big fat wire feeds the first plug then small wire to the rest? I do wonder what this would do to the plugs?
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If getting 9v the thick red wire is probably connected to the wrong end of the dropper resistor that was used when the original plugs were in; 1.7V wired in series.
When upgrading to the 12v parallel wired plugs some instructions didn't tell the installer to move the thick red wire to the same end of the resistor as the power feed. With parallel connected plugs the resistor is redundant, so there are just two wires on the same terminal, the other terminal is left disconnected.
The kits also didn't supply very thick linking wires, but I suggest changing the linking wires is optional not essential.
What 9v does to the plugs isn't any harm, but they just don't get as hot as they should do.
However, be aware that the plugs in the commonly available upgrade kits might not have been high quality, so they might start to fail if fed with full voltage.
What make are the plugs? If NGK they will be OK, otherwise I suggest budgeting for a new set of NGK plugs. NGK Y-403T are the correct 14mm thread to replace the series connected plugs. The NGK Y-403T take about 12 Amps each, at full voltage, which might be 11v when cold starting.
Regards.
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I think you might have missed something?
Its a 5 cylinder Mercedes engine, should have 9v plugs and a ballast. last owner has wired it up with thin cable and connected it to 12v using a very old starter solenoid as a relay
The Plugs are Febi 17215 rated at 9V a company in the US sells a kit of 5 12v ones but I cant find the part number as they would be so much easier, but are £125! against about £35 for them here in 9v
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I think you might have missed something?
You are correct.
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Finally got round to cleaning all the Feb land black dust we got covered in about 4 weeks back :tiphat
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A job I was not looking forward to was dropping out, replacing the gasket and putting back in the rear diff. I've done it before, it wasn't fun. I exhausted myself.
This time it was surprisingly easy - I put a wooden box under the diff so I just lifted the diff up the 6" into the hole!
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Took some garden rubbish to the tip and picked up a steel frying pan and a patio crack rakeout brush from Aldi's weekly specials.
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Pulled the seatbox out, pulling the gearbox out tomorrow.
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Tried the rear seats for size
Just have to refurbish them now!
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Sprayed the bonnet and Tony (Welding) Wood repaired front panel in primer.
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Went to the Classic bike show / Jumble at Stafford, bought a smiths temperature gauge for Bob, now making it work should be interesting
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I fashioned a new vacuum advance pipe.
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Saturday really but spent the morning with land rover and trailer taking rubbish from sons house to the tip as he is moving.
His local tip wouldnt let me in as my land rover doesnt have windows behind the cab (its a 61 year old car with a canvas roof) and so is a commercial vehicle and I didnt have a permit. It meant an 18 mile round trip to my local tip where there is no such restriction.
No wonder fly tipping goes on
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Saturday really but spent the morning with land rover and trailer taking rubbish from sons house to the tip as he is moving.
His local tip wouldnt let me in as my land rover doesnt have windows behind the cab (its a 61 year old car with a canvas roof) and so is a commercial vehicle and I didnt have a permit. It meant an 18 mile round trip to my local tip where there is no such restriction.
No wonder fly tipping goes on
I got a permit for Bob as we have had issues in the past.
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Swore at the *&%^$ plastic bodied flasher lamp units which are suffering from water ingress related problems again.
Are there any decent quality waterproof auxiliary light units suitable for a late 2A available?
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Shocked at the cost of a locking mech for a cat flap, I spent the day making my own; bit of forging, fabricating and engineering. Mostly done, just some fettling to make it fit :mr fixit
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Stripped the rear crossmember back to bare metal, welded on new brackets then red oxide primed and painted it. Good as new(ish)
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Drove it this weekend, First time for a while since welding was done and all the jobs were sorted that dismantling something this old throws at you. Anyway all good - just hopefully some minor works to go.
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Fixed a *&%^$ plastic bodied flasher lamp unit which was suffering from water ingress related problems again. To be fair, it wasn't actually the lamp unit itself this time but the *&%^$ twisted joint tape bomb lurking behind it courtesy of some previous owner's idea of wiring. >:(
Most of the wiring across the front looks of a similar standard but for now it'll just have to make do with as and when attention.....
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Fitted a new gauge panel. Now I have the oil pressure, vacuum and various switch on one panel instead of small ones dotted around. But after fitting the vacuum gauge didn't read the usual value. This may have been because I tried fitting an LED lamp that was slightly longer than the incandescent one and it fouled the mechanism. So having checked the pipes and the real vacuum with a spare gauge I took the faulty gauge apart. Nothing untoward was visible so I took the needle off and with the gauge open to air (no vacuum) I refitted the needle to show '0'. It now works again.
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tried to line up truck back with bulkhead :stars
will try again by fitting the roof ..........its a lot different from the standard tub which becomes a datum for bulkhead
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A tad pedantic, but yes. Should really put one's specs on when tiiipinng.
Hi,
OT ... but take it as a warning.
The legend goes, that an American living on America, employed a French architect, and a local builder. The resulting house was HUGE. The bullder had assumed that all the dimensions were in inches.
The architect had not specified that they were in centimetres.
602
PS. All text in this mail is not 18pt unless specified otherwise. Hmmm ... I wonder if that will work?
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Hi
No it didn't work. Back to the drawing board.
602
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My 109 broke down yesterday! First hiccup in a long time. Pulled away from a junction late last night, changed up to second, accelerated, then changed up to third and then nothing. It was like I’d switched off the ignition.
Coasted to a halt. Tried a restart, s turned over quickly, but nothing, not firing at all. Noticed that the heater had stopped too, and it wasn’t running when I turned the ignition on.
Checked fuses and found the top fuse blown. Replaced with a spare that I had in the car and all came back to normal.
Now the question is, was it just an old fuse, or is something shorting out! Time will tell!
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put a refurbished starter in my series
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Rescued a purchase for a mate!
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Yesterday really! I finished making the locking mechanism for my new cat-flap and attached it to Lottie. Very pleased with how her rear end is looking now :-*
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I drove my 109 FFR to my workshop for storage. Then booked my unregistered (never been registered) 1964 88 in for its first ever MoT. About time I registered it as it has been waiting long enough!
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Does that mean it will get a 19 plate?!
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Yesterday really! I finished making the locking mechanism for my new cat-flap and attached it to Lottie. Very pleased with how her rear end is looking now :-*
You canny beat a good looking rear end!
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Fitted a pair of wing mounted mirrors to the 12 seater and changed the diffs to 3.54's. The 200tdi is not being thrashed now at 60 ish.
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Put my clock back an hour!
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Put my clock back an hour!
Good job i saw this ...i hadn't realised clocks changed yet... :shakeinghead
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Good job i saw this ...i hadn't realised clocks changed yet... :shakeinghead
I fell foul too :'( that's the trouble with binge watching, there's no Trevor McDonut for a reminder, and I'm swerving wide of daily papers just now ;)
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Indeed..I never watch live TV or read the propaganda papers either..! ;)
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Like your clock!
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Not really with my Series but for the two of them.
7.5 kilograms of the most commonly used fixings freshly sherardized ...
(https://up.picr.de/37086942oj.jpg)
… and put into neat little stacks to stow away.
(https://up.picr.de/37086943gn.jpg)
So from now on, whenever there's something to unscrew and attach, I'll have the proper nut or bolt at hand - properly sherardized :cool.
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Not really with my Series but for the two of them.
7.5 kilograms of the most commonly used fixings freshly sherardized ...
So from now on, whenever there's something to unscrew and attach, I'll have the proper nut or bolt at hand - properly sherardized :cool.
That looks very useful. Where did you get them from May I ask?
Alec
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Stripped and undersealed the chassis area under where the tub sits......and then refitted the tub. Really starting to feel like i'm making progress now! :cool
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That looks very useful. Where did you get them from May I ask?
Alec
I ordered the bolts, nuts and washers from Namrick‘s (plus a few old bits off the Landy) and then had them sherardized at a company that usually do much larger bits for big industrial companies but were nice enough to put my bits through in between.
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More and more parts ordered from Craddock, shot blasted wheels given first coat
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Started fitting one of two tonneau support bars to my 109 TC.
Bought from All Wheel Trim some months ago for £81. That's what the advertised £60or £66 gets to once carriage & VAT is added.
So far I've discovered the supplied blind rivets are too large for the holes in the brackets, so that's 16 holes to drill out; and the bars will need shortening by about 5mm so they will fit easily and fully into the installed brackets.
The good news is that the Pro-Tek lazy-tong riveter works marvellously.
Regards.
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Not a lot, looked out of the windows at her wistfully...
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Laid her up today for the winter -- too frightened of the Potassium salt (again) now used sporadically in Austria
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Spent longer than I'd planned to cleaning the grease from some new old stock genuine brake drums. Used the wife's "Elbow Grease" spray from Poundland.... Worked a treat! :cheers
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Spent longer than I'd planned to cleaning the grease from some new old stock genuine brake drums. Used the wife's "Elbow Grease" spray from Poundland.... Worked a treat! :cheers
+1 for that elbow grease stuff.
I found it in a similar emporium, penny stretcher, Bob saver or some such, I reluctantly took the gents recommendation but was pleasantly surprised!