S2C Forum Archives
Main Section => Welcome to our virtual Pub Meeting ... => Topic started by: Wittsend on August 02, 2021, 03:31:49 PM
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New month, summer is here :cool
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Well not today but yesterday, I drove home from the Rally at Ripon towing a trailer to Adlington 71 miles hardly any motorway in 2hrs 10 minutes. It wouyld have been 2 hours but i got stuck between Ripon and harrogate behind some road surfacing machinery that was causing Chaos.
Peter
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Also yesterday, drove home from Ripon, 200 miles, would have been 6 hours but.... no problem with Land Rover, but excitement 5 miles from home when nearside tyre on caravan blew out. Caravan moving again in about an hour with dubiously modified to fit trailer wheel from sister's (conveniently only a mile from breakdown) neighbour's junk pile. (Suspect trailer wheel was 4" pcd, caravan's are 100mm pcd, nothing a 13mm drill and a bit of filing couldn't sort :agh) Drove home slowly without further incident.
Today, the speedo has stopped working. Fine last night on the way home, nothing this morning. Bleargh!
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Yesterday, trundled back from the West coast towards Glasgow with a tub full load of summer holiday toys, initially using a handy ~10k over-the-hill "short cut" (well, its no longer than the tarmac road around, but not necessarily quicker) that I'd scoped out a few weeks ago on my mountain bike. Then over Rest and Be Thankful, followed by the windy route via Garelochhead and Helensburgh, with cracking sunny views over the Firth of Clyde in the evening sunshine.
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Started sorting and inventorying the bits-n-pieces for the sidewalls and trop top so it can be reassembled.
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(Last night) Went to the first post-lockdown Classics-at-the-pub.
Realised as I drove out of the village that my exhaust was blowing again. I think the whole manifold set will have to come off. Job for the weekend...
Parked next to me at the pub was a 1921 cycle-car - fabulous V-twin engine and chain-drive rear axle.
Andrew
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I have started to try to eliminate the tapping noise coming from the fuel pump. The spacer that goes between block and pump was 9.6mm deep.
To start, I've milled 0.5mm off the depth.
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I have been admiring my restored bulkhead now it is back from being painted. Tony Wood and the painter have done a great job. I could have bought a new one for what its cost me, but just like Trigger’s broom, its original. Well sort of.
Need to get busy fitting it and the new wiring loom.
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Fitted these, bit fiddly OE part from the 70s was still in original packaging ,
Chris
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Went for a run to the garden centre to off load a few score old plant pots. Front brakes were slightly warm after the run so when the rain stops for more than 10 mins I'll back them off a fraction. This was the first long run since I replaced the rear oil seals as yet no leaks :first
However I need a new oil pressure switch. When I got home and had it idling the oil light flickered ,the real gauge was showing ~15PSI difficult to tell that low. The engine sounds healthy enough with no rumblings or knocks.
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Change the oil and filter, use a good 20W50 oil - 15 psi is a tad lowish.
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A day at an archaeological dig the other side of Callander, a possible Iron Age site with a medieval building in one corner, Tonka came in handy for taking shovels, rakes and implements of destruction the final half-mile into the Forest. First proper work-out since the carb. problems, all went well.
So far we have walls, a floor, a piece of 16th century pottery and a piece of field drain...... Dig will continue till next March.
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I for one would be very interested to see how that dig develops. Keep us posted!
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Yes, please keep us posted, I'm always interested in local archaeology. Parents were from South Shields so knew a lot about the Roman wall etc from their school days and we would visit the local sites and more recently the fort and reconstructed buildings in South Shields.
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Went for a run to the garden centre to off load a few score old plant pots. Front brakes were slightly warm after the run so when the rain stops for more than 10 mins I'll back them off a fraction. This was the first long run since I replaced the rear oil seals as yet no leaks :first
However I need a new oil pressure switch. When I got home and had it idling the oil light flickered ,the real gauge was showing ~15PSI difficult to tell that low. The engine sounds healthy enough with no rumblings or knocks.
15PSI is OK for hot idle. More important is 40PSI or so at cruising speed hot. If the pressure switch is operating rather high, I'd be inclined to leave it- it might give you earlier warning of a real problem! You have a gauge to confirm or deny any odd warnings.....
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Thanks. I did an oil and filter change last year and only done a few hundred miles since. Oil pressure when cruising is about 60 psi, again its not a BSI calibrated gauge.
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I moved my drivers seat about 1.5” to the left. I’ve always felt that the door was a little too close but it’s never really bothered me except for last night coming back from the Thames Valley North pub meet and I half remembered that there were another set of bolt holes which might give me a bit more room. I have Defender seats and a cubby box so there are spaces between seats etc. Anyway the seat moved over nicely, I still can’t work out why there are two sets of holes, the passenger side doesn’t have them and the seat is close to the door like the drivers side was. The steering wheel and controls don’t seem to have changed much plus it’s easier to get reverse and to switch the wipers on. The only very slight problem is the lap belt, the short bit is between the seat and cubby box and is now very fiddly to put on, I wonder if you can still get the really thick plastic coated cable type buckle.
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Little running, looking for the rain, now with a full operating Smiths heather now is a pleasure in winter
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^^ Just realised that you of course are in the middle of winter!
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Today I painted the 4 brake plates with epoxy primer, I am upgrading to brakes from 109 to my 88.
Soon to continue rebuilding my front axle, slow but moving forward ..
Yes, in South America it is the middle of winter, but here, in the central area of Chile, (Argentina's neighbor) very little rain has fallen, and the weather is beginning to improve, a good time to start painting work ...
Nice tach LandCasco ¡ :RHD
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(last night) removed the water pump that was turning my engine bay orange. Well I hope it is that! The cowl, fan and most of the stuff up front is orange too so been like this for some time. I knew this when I bought it. Looks like the WP seal is leaking and dripping out of the relief hole.
How to de-Tango it with minimum effort?
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^^^ Every day a learning day. I never realised there was a relief hole...
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^^^ Every day a learning day. I never realised there was a relief hole...
Same here - I am only guessing. Figured it went out that hole rather than sit and rust the bearing in solid ???
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Anyway the seat moved over nicely, I still can’t work out why there are two sets of holes, the passenger side doesn’t have them and the seat is close to the door like the drivers side was.
I am assuming you have the later Defender seats which only have 2 bolts each side.
The adjustable S2 seat was held down to the seat box by 8 bolts -- 4 each side and co-incidentally the spacing is such that a later Defender seat will fit either the inner or outer pair.
Inboard of those holes should be another pair which held the middle seat rhs bracket when the adjustable seat was fitted to the drivers side. I do not think the S2 middle seat is compatible with the Defender seat fitted.
The passenger side [unless the vehicle was a station wagon with optional adjustable seat] would have been fitted with a fixed seat which only used 2 bolts on the outer side and had a combined outer/middle seat bracket on the inner side held down by 4 widely spaced bolts.
I have not seen many very early S2 but I always thought that the passenger side of the seat box was drilled for the 8 bolt adjustable seat and had the redundant holes blanked with grommets.
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Every day a learning day. I never realised there was a relief hole...
I do not think it is present on some modern replacement water pumps.
It was a standard on almost all makes/ models of vehicles back in the day due to the material used for the water seal being prone to seepage. The water seal was completely separated from the spindle bearing and any water leakage drained away without affecting the bearing which would have quickly killed the pump.
Back in the early '60s my father ran an old David Brown Cropmaster diesel tractor with a leaky water pump for the whole time I was growing up - a steady drip when ever the engine was running -- and we used to re-fill it with water from the hose or any close by cattle trough a couple of times a day if it was working all day.
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Anyway the seat moved over nicely, I still can’t work out why there are two sets of holes, the passenger side doesn’t have them and the seat is close to the door like the drivers side was.
I am assuming you have the later Defender seats which only have 2 bolts each side.
The adjustable S2 seat was held down to the seat box by 8 bolts -- 4 each side and co-incidentally the spacing is such that a later Defender seat will fit either the inner or outer pair.
Inboard of those holes should be another pair which held the middle seat rhs bracket when the adjustable seat was fitted to the drivers side. I do not think the S2 middle seat is compatible with the Defender seat fitted.
The passenger side [unless the vehicle was a station wagon with optional adjustable seat] would have been fitted with a fixed seat which only used 2 bolts on the outer side and had a combined outer/middle seat bracket on the inner side held down by 4 widely spaced bolts.
I have not seen many very early S2 but I always thought that the passenger side of the seat box was drilled for the 8 bolt adjustable seat and had the redundant holes blanked with grommets.
Thanks, that pretty much sums up the situation, it’s a very late 2a 109 Station Wagon, the drivers side did have an adjustable seat and the passenger seat didn’t which fits exactly with your explanation. There isn’t a second pair of holes on the inner side of the seat although there is on the outer side. I’ll drill 2 holes and move the passenger seat to the right as and when a passenger complains that the door is too close. That should take a while.
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Today was a good day.
I got the (new) clutch bolted onto the flywheel.
Ready now to fit the engine block to the chassis.
:RHD
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Out looking for escaped cows again yesterday evening....
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^^^ Should we be arranging a S2C Club fencing exercise to keep Gene's stock under control?
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^^^ Should we be arranging a S2C Club fencing exercise to keep Gene's stock under control?
The problem is this sort of thing, a Forestry Commission fence across a swamp, that floods multiple times a year. The lease says its their job to maintain it.... they have no staff, no budget and "Covid" as an excuse... This section of fence consists of posts pushed into mud, almost flattened by the force of water pressing against the debris built up on the wire. After I "lost the rag" with them for having to miss the Rally and threatened to remove the cattle permanently - thus causing them a problem meeting their requirement to maintain the "Site of Special Scientific Interest" they have provided a pile of new posts and started talking about "No Fence" options - essentially shock collars and GPS. We will see. The SSSI is one huge enclosure with about 2.5 miles of external fence. Once out of that the cattle can move anywhere in Achray Forest, 10 miles across.
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Another good day !
Engine now in the chassis with the help of some grunt from the grandson and these 2 "helpers".
An old gearbox shaft to line up the clutch plate and a "special" long stud - 3/8" UNC with a screw driver slot cut in the end.
This I put in at the 11 o'clock position on the engine. It helps guide in the engine to gearbox.
When it's all up tight, the stud is removed and the correct size stud fitted and nutted.
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Gearbox rebuilt and back on the chassis and a test fit of the SS exhaust. Bulkhead is next on the list, I am hoping to get this painted in the next week or so along with the front panel.
I also used the old input shaft as an alignment tool, the gearbox went in without a struggle... which was nice! :tool-set
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The Aeroparts winch has gone on and also I now have a Series 2 with cruise control.
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Today i finished tidying up the inside after taking stuff out for painting. So thats the spare wheel back in sat on it's box and my fold out table too after a new coat of paint. I also adjusted the handbrake, it was a touch slack. I then decided to put on the inner mudshield that i acquired from Alex of this parish. Photographs show my old one, the one i got from Alex before and after cleaning it putting rust stabiliser on and then three coats of paint. When i attachecd the new mudshield i put some rubber washers between the bulkhead and the mudshield.
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Painted my roof with U-Pol Raptor. It’s very YELLOW!
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Painted my roof with U-Pol Raptor. It’s very YELLOW!
i like the look of that but i have a feeling it will be difficult to keep clean.
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^^^^ Is it supposed to be that textured ? I'd worry it will be very hard to keep clean - having recently spent 4 days cleaning moss and lichen off a caravan roof...
....beaten to it.
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i like the look of that but i have a feeling it will be difficult to keep clean.
Soap, water, sponge and a pressure washer. Not a problem. :first
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^^^^ Everyone loves an optimist :-X
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^^^^ Is it supposed to be that textured ? I'd worry it will be very hard to keep clean - having recently spent 4 days cleaning moss and lichen off a caravan roof...
....beaten to it.
The texture depends on how you apply it. You can roller it, spray it with a standard spray gun or in my case with a Underbody/Stone Chip/Shultz gun, first coat goes on relatively smooth (12” from panel) then second for texture (18”ish from panel). :cheers
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Finally got underneath to sort out the bad handbrake
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New shoes looking good :cheers
Me ... another good day.
Sump off (hardly any sludge in there).
Block of wood stuffed up against a crank web.
Then easy peasy with my 50p 1" Whitworth ring spanner and an extension bar.
Just a gentle pull and the nut was loose :first
(I want to check/replace the timing chain and reset the CAV pump timing.)
Much better than bashing a flogging spanner or the old starter motor trick IMHO.
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Just a small extension bar. I have a 24" stilson wrench with a gently curved handle as the result of a long "extension bar" (actually a length of scaffolding tube) with 2 people bouncing on it to undo the hub nut on a VW transporter in the late 1960s.
Peter
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I have a 24" stilson wrench with a gently curved handle as the result of a long "extension bar"
You see quite a lot of those come up in farm sales :-X
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Nice picture Alan! :cheers
What works wonders is the impact wrench. Sure, you have to have one. ???
It is also wonderful to remove the alternator pulley ... :first
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Fitted my refurbished (by Distributor Doctor) original, dated, Lucas 25D distributor last Friday. Fitted a new set of plugs today, and went for a 60 mile round trip.
What a difference! A correctly mapped and correct dizzie, and the new, correctly gapped plugs meant she absolutely flew along. Great pick-up from low revs too.
Got the PO's previously fitted Ducellier in a box - probably best place for it......
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Took mine on a blast 30 miles down the M66 and back to visit Chris Gregson's son Lee to celebrate Chris's birthday.
At one stage I managed to reach a heady 70mph shown on a gps speedo on the flat and this is a 2.25 diesel, there was lots of noise and some vibration and there was nothing left
Peter
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To work, petrol and short work trip at lunchtime. Home through the hills.
Good for my blood pressure.
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Discovered a new place to lubricate... through the small 1/4" plugs/bolts into the brake and clutch pedal shafts. My brake pedal is off and the clutch one is accessible while installed.
Dropped in a few drops of EP90 to loosen up the old grease, and then managed to inject some new grease using a syringe, thumb pressure, and the little plug/bolt as a small ram as it is done up. Eventually some satisfying squelches of appropriate stuff started oozing out the gaps at the end of the shaft.
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Brake woes. Trying to renew all wheel cylinders, flexible hoses, do a master cylinder CB-to-CV conversion, and clean out my bean can. The Britpart "Brake Hose Set Series 2 and 3 (1960-79) UNF Braided DA2418S" I puchased contains hoses which basically aren't the right fitting at my cylinders and or the rear-axle T piece. Returning that for refund and now waiting for the correct new hoses and copper washers so I will be able to finish the job. I think I have all the other parts now, touch wood, unless I break something. The big pedal box gasket arrived today - the old one was in 4 pieces before I got the pedal box free. Quite pricey for a piece of rubber at >£10 including postage. I could probably have made one from a bit of old inner tube and a punch to make the holes.
To give myself some entertainment amongst the frustration of how long this is taking, I decided to strip my old CB master cylinder to see if any obvious clues appeared about why my brakes had been getting less and less effective. Its a bit scary what becomes visible once you remove the rubber dust cap. Rust at the end of the barrel where the main seal sat when "idle", a nice pile of gunge residing in the end cap, and a nice sharp shard of swarf that must have been in there ever since it was manufactured. This was wedged somewhere down near the recuperating seal and I think may have had something to do with my problems.
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I made a vast amount of progress today. I fitted another S2C sticker to my windscreen seeing as the last one came adrift because I hadn't cleaned the screen properly.
Bearing in mind that I still have to: rebuild the RH footwell, repair the RH dumb iron, rebuild both axles, engine & gearbox, fit a rear cross member, overhaul the brakes, rebuild the steering, retrim the interior, fit new wheels and tyres, repair the wiring and paint the whole vehicle.
I call fitting a sticker progress...
If this vehicle is running before next year's Somerset meet, it will be a miracle!
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. Its a bit scary what becomes visible once you remove the rubber dust cap. Rust at the end of the barrel where the main seal sat when "idle", a nice pile of gunge residing in the end cap, and a nice sharp shard of swarf that must have been in there ever since it was manufactured. This was wedged somewhere down near the recuperating seal and I think may have had something to do with my problems.
That's very interesting, I had swarf in a brand new Genuine Girling CB master cylinder back in 1969 when I had a 1960 S2 2 litre diesel . It seems things have not improved. I had all the issues of bleeding, ended putting the front wheels on the 4 poster at work & lifted until the rear cross member was on the floor. It did work first time.
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I haven't seen my eldest daughter for nearly 2 years. They drove from Germany today, and after a cup of tea, one of the first things she wanted to do was drive the 2A. Took to it like an expert. She had driven my Defender a lot in the past, but this is different. Chip off the old block :)
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Hi,
Sorry, OT, but sweet.
Yesterday, driving the Freelander out of my front garden, into the road, i had to stop for a couple of minutes while a baby hedgehog stopped in the middle of the road, changed it's mind, turned round, and went back into the front garden of the house opposite.
It must be about 20 years since I last saw a hedgehog, and that was in Wales.
Should I cut access holes in my fences? How big?
Or would Wilkie (JRT) regard them as fair game?
602
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"Caution, Wide Load". Rather than drive up to the house and have to reverse 300m we agreed the delivery driver would drop the roof trusses (House extension) beside the Forestry road.
Tonka and the Ifor Williams to do the move onto site...
That just left 2x 12ft gates to negotiate... The Trusses are 4.8m wide x 1.55m high.
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First repairs after Ripon trip. Oil seal on stub axle failed, replaced with seal I had in stock (recommendation from this very forum - keep them in stock!), replacing the wrecked brake shoes.
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(http://www.steamscenes.org.uk/tti/20/161_0154.jpg)
Continued fitting my lifting roof. I’m onto sewing the canvas together.
Then it’s onto getting it looking nice, I have a hard deadline of Leafers so things are moving at a pace.
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Looking good Pete, cant go to leafers this year so I shall miss seeing it unfortunately. Your camping will have to be much more civilised with the new baby!!
I replaced the spring bush that I knocked out at the rally and I have vowed to sort out properly the bits of tube I need to make the job easy. If it rains today i shall be in the garage doing just that.
Peter
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(http://www.steamscenes.org.uk/tti/20/161_0154.jpg)
Continued fitting my lifting roof. I’m onto sewing the canvas together.
Then it’s onto getting it looking nice, I have a hard deadline of Leafers so things are moving at a pace.
That looks fantastic. Is it a home brewed design? I came across the X-Panda camper conversion the other week and it got me thinking. I thought making it water tight would be a challenge though.
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The saga of the ticking fuel pump has been resumed. Took the original spacer and gaskets out, measured at 10.7mm thick. Replaced with the milled spacer and no gaskets - 9.1mm thick. A brief try indicates a reduction in noise. A test run to prove whether it has worked now needed.
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I drove to the bank, and then to a restaurant for a tasty burger.
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Its very warm in Scotland just now. Too nice an evening to try the final last bits of assembly of my hydraulic system and then filling fluid and bleed, after renewing all the cylinders and hoses. Leave that for tomorrow. Instead added another coat of paint to the old bean-can which has actually come up from a "shocking" condition to actually not looking too bad. I flushed it out inside with fresh fluid last night, about 20 goes and a bit of clean ragging in between, until I was convinced it was basically clear of all gunk and "bits". One thing to come out was the remnants of the foil top of a dot 4 container which someone must have dropped in there sometime. There was also a lot of black "gunge" at the bottom which I take to be the product of a chemical reaction between the remains of the old rubber washer off the old lid, with dot 4 fluid, over 60 years. That lid got junked earlier this year and replaced with one off ebay that has a new washer, but I am trying to make the main bean-can live on for a while at least. On the outside, a scrub, not thoroughly to bare metal but just removing loose stuff, a coat of special metals primer slapped on, and 2 coats of black and it starts to look pretty good. First spillage of fluid and it'll all be ruined but hey ho.
For some relaxation, after dinner in the dark under spotlight and party lights with the music on, installed a new bonnet strip with nice new copper "bifurcated rivets" which I got off ebay, as the last one was in strips of string and I'd installed it with pop rivets back in 1988. I spent some time trying to work out which way up the rivets should go, without finding anything conclusive in any of the parts books or online. So I put them in with the "bifurcated" bits UP, so they slot within the 2 thick braids. This seems logical to me, but I have no idea if it is the "right" way. Online advice was to use a pair of plumbers pliers which is a good tip. I also found a strip of plastic (to protect paintwork and rivet underneath) and a length of hex bar made up a good way to squeeze the rivets tightly down, after first splaying the ends a bit with a much smaller set of pliers.
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Its very warm in Scotland just now. Too nice an evening to try the final last bits of assembly of my hydraulic system and then filling fluid and bleed, after renewing all the cylinders and hoses. Leave that for tomorrow. Instead added another coat of paint to the old bean-can which has actually come up from a "shocking" condition to actually not looking too bad. I flushed it out inside with fresh fluid last night, about 20 goes and a bit of clean ragging in between, until I was convinced it was basically clear of all gunk and "bits". One thing to come out was the remnants of the foil top of a dot 4 container which someone must have dropped in there sometime. There was also a lot of black "gunge" at the bottom which I take to be the product of a chemical reaction between the remains of the old rubber washer off the old lid, with dot 4 fluid, over 60 years. That lid got junked earlier this year and replaced with one off ebay that has a new washer, but I am trying to make the main bean-can live on for a while at least. On the outside, a scrub, not thoroughly to bare metal but just removing loose stuff, a coat of special metals primer slapped on, and 2 coats of black and it starts to look pretty good. First spillage of fluid and it'll all be ruined but hey ho.
For some relaxation, after dinner in the dark under spotlight and party lights with the music on, installed a new bonnet strip with nice new copper "bifurcated rivets" which I got off ebay, as the last one was in strips of string and I'd installed it with pop rivets back in 1988. I spent some time trying to work out which way up the rivets should go, without finding anything conclusive in any of the parts books or online. So I put them in with the "bifurcated" bits UP, so they slot within the 2 thick braids. This seems logical to me, but I have no idea if it is the "right" way. Online advice was to use a pair of plumbers pliers which is a good tip. I also found a strip of plastic (to protect paintwork and rivet underneath) and a length of hex bar made up a good way to squeeze the rivets tightly down, after first splaying the ends a bit with a much smaller set of pliers.
Looks good. I need to do mine as well.
Since you mentioned what way to place them - which I have no clue either - thought you might find the following interesting. The website's description doesn't mention the brass washers (I guess that's what they are), but the picture shows them.
I haven't seen, nor heard ant references to these before.
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Brass Split Rivets
These special bifurcated rivets were used on a number of applications on Series Land Rovers from 1948-1964. These have been unavailable for years, and we are finally producing these fasteners to original specification.
Applications include:
- 80-inch handbrake and 4WD shift boots
- Hood/bonnet buffer strips from ‘48-64
- Apron panel buffer strips from ’58-64
- Windshield buffer strips from ’48-53.
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Maybe that washer slots over the 2 bifurcated bits, and then you splay it out. That could work.
If you search for "clip 68087" or "rivet 68087" quite a lot of options came up. You need 10 of them (in my LR anyway). Fortunately my pack came with exactly 10, and the strip which is a nice old olive colour and suits the age of the vehicle.
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Maybe that washer slots over the 2 bifurcated bits, and then you splay it out. That could work.
If you search for "clip 68087" or "rivet 68087" quite a lot of options came up. You need 10 of them (in my LR anyway). Fortunately my pack came with exactly 10, and the strip which is a nice old olive colour and suits the age of the vehicle.
I have no clue how that washer thing is supposed to be used.
I bought two of the kits you have - olive with 10. One is going to be used for the bonnet, tge other is going to be cut in half and used on the apron.
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Took it for an MOT. It passed with no advisories :RHD
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Had a run down the Clyde Valley for lunch, Landie ran very well and certainly has more oomph with premium petrol (£1.45-ltr) and surely better economy. Avoided the motorway for roadwork reasons and turned a few heads going through Hamilton.
All in all a fine trip out. :essen
Dave.
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I fitted a new battery positive cable as the one in place was A) black with a bit of red tape on one end and B) it was slightly too short so it cut corners on its run. The new one is now loomed in correctly and shows up the rest of the homemade wiring loom.
After a sort run all was OK I felt the wheels for warmth ,as you do, and the rear nearside was distinctly warm to the hand, all the others were cold. So I eased off the adjuster a click the wheel now spins freely with just a trace of rubbing at one point.
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OT
11:45 am
Six Red Arrows have just flown over our house at about 500 ft :o
They often stop at Norwich International Airport for re-fueling.
They were at RAF Marham yesterday and one was grounded by a bird strike.
Maybe the others will come over later.
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Here's something Land Rover based ....
Just tapped out the holes for the mud shield on the timing cover - the holes take an M6 tap.
Should make any future replacement of the front crank seal a little easier.
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/timing_cover_mod.jpg)
:coffee
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Remembered why I'd spent my working life doing things other than being a fitter/mechanic.... And why I normally get my LR trained mechanic to look after my S2.
Decided to do a very simple job myself. Connect the Carb to Dizzie new vacuum pipe. In order to access rear of the dizzie and get the run right, and remove the old pipe, I removed the hose & oil bath air cleaner. Rested it on top of the battery but forgot to remove the earth, so the battery was live!!! :agh
Cue a big bang, sparks, and a hole in the bottom of the oil bath and oil all over the place. :thud
Feeling utterly stupid, careless and ashamed. What a walley.......... :shakeinghead
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15:05
Red Arrows just buzzed us....
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... I removed the hose & oil bath air cleaner. Rested it on top of the battery but forgot to remove the earth, so the battery was live!!! :agh
Cue a big bang, sparks, and a hole in the bottom of the oil bath and oil all over the place. ...
I bang on and on about fitting 'non-original' covers on both the live and earth terminals on batteries, especially considering how close the live terminal is normally to the earthed battery retaining clamp.
I have formed the distinct impression no-one else sees the obvious danger.
Thank you for highlighting one of the advantages of double insulation.
Regards.
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I bang on and on about fitting 'non-original' covers on both the live and earth terminals on batteries, especially considering how close the live terminal is normally to the earthed battery retaining clamp.
I have formed the distinct impression no-one else sees the obvious danger.
Thank you for highlighting one of the advantages of double insulation.
Regards.
Thank you David, an absolutely valid comment, and one I will act on.
Though I can't help but think I'd be less dangerous if I had brain.......
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Look on the bright side. It proves the battery is (was) a good one. :shocking
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Front brakes were slightly warm after the run so when the rain stops for more than 10 mins I'll back them off a fraction.
Hi,
If your brakes were not previously binding, check you haven't got a sticky pedal (foot under pedal, and lift).
It's probably OK, otherwise the rears would be warm too ... but this test is very quick, and free.
602
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Look on the bright side. It proves the battery is (was) a good one. :shocking
When I first purchased Tonka, an FFR, I noticed that potholes produced electrical arcing smells in the cab. Further investigation showed that a combination of the extra sheet of MDF under the battery, the sloppy home-made PO strap not actually securing the battery and the steel battery cover were causing it to jump on road corrugations and short out on the battery cover. MDF removed, better hold-down installed and lid lined with rubber sheeting...
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I'll also repeat my suggestion of placing a plastic seedling tray (from garden centres) over the top to keep stuff away from the battery terminals.
:RHD
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Here's something Land Rover based ....
Just tapped out the holes for the mud shield on the timing cover - the holes take an M6 tap.
Should make any future replacement of the front crank seal a little easier.
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/timing_cover_mod.jpg)
:coffee
Snap! Did the same job, but tapped to M5 and painted it 2A Blue
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The saga of the ticking fuel pump. My revised spacer made no difference, so I got scientific (!). Looking at pictures of a camshaft, the fuel pump eccentric lines up with valve 6. So when valve 6 is fully open, the eccentric is at its smallest position. Whipped the rocker cover off, quick check of the tappet clearance while I was in there (OK), while valve 6 was fully open, found I could push the fuel pump downwards possibly 3mm - so hopefully bringing the lever closer to the eccentric! Tightened it back up again, see what the result is.
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built up a new door then replaced drivers door, before noon lunch, then the 80 mile round trip, to Market Rasen to collect some hardwood plank offcuts, about 4 cwt, a reasonable load for WOA, and a good run, re positioned door catch on return, door now locks.
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The saga of the ticking fuel pump. My revised spacer made no difference, so I got scientific (!). Looking at pictures of a camshaft, the fuel pump eccentric lines up with valve 6. So when valve 6 is fully open, the eccentric is at its smallest position. Whipped the rocker cover off, quick check of the tappet clearance while I was in there (OK), while valve 6 was fully open, found I could push the fuel pump downwards possibly 3mm - so hopefully bringing the lever closer to the eccentric! Tightened it back up again, see what the result is.
I'll be interested to hear the result - literally ! I have a similar quite loud ticking.
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Rebuilt a Zenith 361V with a somewhat dodgy repair kit. Next time its off to Burlen methinks. Testing it tomorrow.
Re this ticking fuel pump issue. Is this happening with the copy Britpart pumps, or with the original Delco units?
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I'll be interested to hear the result - literally ! I have a similar quite loud ticking.
Worth doing, fuel pump now quiet when I put the stethoscope on it. Key thing was to get the pump eccentric in the right place.
It isn't the pump diffwhine, it's the cam contacting the lever arm. The arm should ride the cam. By repositioning the pump, I've got the arm in contact with the cam.
It has now brought attention to another tick - sounds like the tappet slide on No. 8. Head off job - wait a few weeks for that.
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^^^^ Tx for that Tim. I'll experiment !
G. :tiphat
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Did a few hours work on the Landrover, greased all the steering links and topped up the steering box, not much needed. Worked the steering back and forth with the front end on axlestands and did feel a slight easing so, went for a run and I think the steering is a bit lighter so I'll do a run tomorrow with the freewheeling hubs off to splash the oil around the necessaries.
Oh and adjusted the draglink to line up the steering wheel.... :RHD
Dave.
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Topped up the overdrive again.
Realised that I’ve put in 500ml of EP90 over three days and 500 miles. Not good.
Time for a rebuild I think.
Andrew
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A shopping trip over the hill, coming back as the sun set...
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Not today but yesterday. I had the great pleasure of leading the North West Series 2 Road Run. Our first meeting for eighteen months. I took five other Series* from Longridge to Wray via Bleasdale, Oakenclough, Over Wyresdale, Trough of Bowland,Littledale,Roe burndale and Middle Salter. Some nice narrow country roads, uphill hairpin bends, numourous cattle grids. great views and a lovely green lane to finish. There was nine more Series waiting for us at Wray. Good day out had by all.
*One member also turned up in his car. His Series is off the road at the moment.
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Andy, you havent said anything about 1 series breaking down on its way home
This is waht happens when you fit a modern engine with a timing belt
Peter
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Caught up with the NLRK for a trip in the off-road area this weekend.
Took the S2 out on its first outing with some decent off-roading, handled amazingly well. :wooly-jumper
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Andy, you havent said anything about 1 series breaking down on its way home
This is waht happens when you fit a modern engine with a timing belt
what engine is in that thing? twin snorkels with twin stacks out the back? hope its a v8 :-X
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Caught up with the NLRK for a trip in the off-road area this weekend.
Took the S2 out on its first outing with some decent off-roading, handled amazingly well. :wooly-jumper
What are the Norwegian rules on "off-road" driving ? I'd love to go back, the scenery is just stunning, Scotland on Steroids.
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what engine is in that thing? twin snorkels with twin stacks out the back? hope its a v8 :-X
Tim it is a 300TDi but it used to have a Perkins in it.
It is an awesome beast
Peter
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What are the Norwegian rules on "off-road" driving ? I'd love to go back, the scenery is just stunning, Scotland on Steroids.
Essentially "not allowed" is the Norwegian moto - however were there is a will there is a way!
The NLRK has an agreement with a local land owner to use this particular spot once a month.
There is some license/insurance fees to pay (about £20 total) and then your free to damage your car in what ever way you see fit.
Was quite impressed with the terrain, rock climbing, steps, ruts. Few good diff eating rocks to watch out for! all low range 1st gear work.
Looking forward to trying it out in winter/snow!
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^^^^ Thanks. The tarmac roads are awesome enough....
:tiphat
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Not today but yesterday. I had the great pleasure of leading the North West Series 2 Road Run. Our first meeting for eighteen months. I took five other Series* from Longridge to Wray via Bleasdale, Oakenclough, Over Wyresdale, Trough of Bowland,Littledale,Roe burndale and Middle Salter. Some nice narrow country roads, uphill hairpin bends, numourous cattle grids. great views and a lovely green lane to finish. There was nine more Series waiting for us at Wray. Good day out had by all.
*One member also turned up in his car. His Series is off the road at the moment.
Had the pleasure of seeing this fleet of series 2's at Jubilee tower, awesome, I was in the silver Subaru, I stopped opposite to have a look just as you set off :RHD
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Bodging the bulkhead just near the top door hinge where a crack has appeared. Ground out and welded up as a temporary repair. Proper job with a Tony Wood repair panel will have to be planned for next year.
Just needs another coat of paint tomorrow, no filler used unlike what was there before
Peter
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Andy, you havent said anything about 1 series breaking down on its way home
This is waht happens when you fit a modern engine with a timing belt
Peter
Peter
I didnt wish to embarrass Jim let alone say anything about his copious tool kit on board.
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Had the pleasure of seeing this fleet of series 2's at Jubilee tower, awesome, I was in the silver Subaru, I stopped opposite to have a look just as you set off :RHD
Hi xfu990
I remember seeing you as you had stopped in the layby at the side of the road. Shame you wern't five minutes sooner and you could have had a natter. You also could have followed us. You would have been ok in the Subaru.
Andy
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Andy, I forgot to mention how useful Jim found my ,metric adjustable spanner on his 300 Tdi or that Emrys turned up with an imperial adjustable because he was coming to a S2.
Marcus was pretty slick with loading it onto his flatbed and taking photos along the way. Recorded for posterity now
Peter
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Hi xfu990
I remember seeing you as you had stopped in the layby at the side of the road. Shame you wern't five minutes sooner and you could have had a natter. You also could have followed us. You would have been ok in the Subaru.
Andy
Thanks for that Andy, I would have loved a Land Rover natter, maybe next time. Probably next year, I'll have my Series 2 swb (xfu990) on the road hopefully, it's only been off the road since the year 2000 so another year won't hurt the old girl :-X
I was tempted to follow but when I saw you turn off I thought you might of been heading towards a green lane or two, the Subaru is 4wd but I haven't quite got the ground clearance :-X
Cheers Ian
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Peter
I think another few years and Jim and Emry's will have it cracked which spanner fits.
Ian
We did do a greenlane and a couple of good tight uphill hairpins. If you remember seeing a black bmw behind us. That followed us all the way, so you would have been ok. Speak to Dave Marrin Area Organiser and make sure he has your email address and you will get list of meets. Just turn up and have a natter even without your Series.
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Took the opportunity over the bank holiday weekend to install the bulkhead section of the new wiring loom whilst the bulkhead is out. Very satisfying job and a bit of a headscratcher at times. Connected it up to the battery and... no flash or fuse (5A) blown so that is a positive. Side lights working, but I cannot get the ignition on or power to the dashboard fuse, so more investigations required this evening.
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Had another run to the railway club in Glasgow at lunchtime and returned in the rush hour, no problem keeping up with the traffic. Really enjoying having the Landie back on the road and gaining confidence in it once again. Hoping I may be able to join up with some of the other guys in the West o' Scotland sometime. :tiphat
Dave.
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The temperature in this corner of the planet begins to improve, it is not so cold anymore and it is better to work on my beloved Series IIA ..
Paint the 4 new 11-inch brake drums, and their respective plates with black polyurethane paint.
Also paint the steering column black-
I started doing some small repairs to the chassis, cut a few pieces to replace them.
Apparently the thickness of the Chassis is 2.2mm. I plan to use a 2mm plate, I don't think there is a problem, they are not large pieces.