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[Tim_Moore]

Hello All,

i have 75% of the parts required to install an Aeroparts Capstan winch on my S2, however I'm missing a few critical pieces; namely:
- Drive flange
- Drive Axle
- Prop Shaft
- UV joint
- Shear Pins

I have the skill set in CAD to re-draw all of these parts for re-fabrication. However i do not have anything to measure/copy.
I'm hoping a forum member has these parts (either installed or to be installed) and are able to take a lot of photos with a tape measure in the photo and as many measurements as possible, then i can re-produce fabrication drawing to allow re-fabrication to occur.

I'm willing to do the leg work and give the drawings freely back to the forum if someone can help me out with the input 

[Davidss]

You, like many of us, are missing TrueS2.
He had an enviable record of finding parts that were no longer readily available.
What he couldn't find he tended to have made.
He went through this process to enable the installation of an Aeroparts Capstan Winch on his restored S2 (ex German Border Force).

I suggest searching the Archive forum; I would specify 'posts by TrueS2' rather using the default wildcard (*).

This thread from 2007 shows he was looking for the Shear Pin dimensions, and referring to having otherwise completed the installation.
As is often the way, the pictures in the 2013 response have not survived. The poster 'Revtor' has not made it onto the new forum under that name, although a few people took the opportunity to register under a different name, so he 'might' be here.
I have retained an undated copy from AULRO, which I attach.

I STRONGLY recommend that if you see anything pictured, of any topic, that might be of remote interest to you, you copy the picture onto your own PC. That is the best way to ensure you can find the picture when you need it.

One question: You mention 'propshaft'. In UK usage that generally means a tubular shaft, a solid shaft as used to connect to an engine driven winch would be termed a 'drive shaft'. Which is it you want to reproduce?
I realise I have assumed an engine driven winch, but perhaps you are looking to install a rear winch (for which a propshaft is appropriate)?

The standard UK source for Options such as winches is 'Optional Equipment'. It's always worth contacting them, even if they don't list stock of what you want. With your CAD skills some co-operation might result. Following the link you will see he lists Drive Shaft and Shear pins.

Regards.

[Tim_Moore]

Hello, thanks for the tips. i will start dredging the forum to see what i can find.
Quite correct its driven of the main crank pulley and runs through the forward PTO hole.

There is a "drive shaft" that runs inside the bronze bushing that is bolted to the front of the motor, this is connected to the dog clutch type drive flange then engages and disengages to the crank pullet.
The "prop shaft" floats between the UV collar on the capstan winch and the UV collar on the drive shaft. it is centralised with springs either end to allow the engine to flex and move on its mounts.

[Bronze Green]

Finn Meuller in Germany ( Land Rover Winches) seems to be able to supply all the various parts for capstan winches. I have dealt with him, he responds quickly and seems to be a nice chap.

[autorover1]

I presume the UV Joint you refer is the barrel spline each end of the drive shaft , with the holes for the springs.  The spline  part is the same as used on the Series One Land Rover clutch  cross shaft end . See part 263882  item 22

[Tim_Moore]

Finn Meuller in Germany ( Land Rover Winches) seems to be able to supply all the various parts for capstan winches. I have dealt with him, he responds quickly and seems to be a nice chap.

I talked to Finn;  €500 for 3 of the 5 parts  is simply outrageous.
Hence my crusade to make this information available to any human with access to a lathe, milling machine and patience.
or more likely feed the 3d model into a 5-axis CNV machine.

Correct the UV is the barrel spline thing, i have 1 of them so can copy that.
Maybe ill just reverse engineer what i have and best guess the rest!

[Davidss]

There is a "drive shaft" that runs inside the bronze bushing that is bolted to the front of the motor, this is connected to the dog clutch type drive flange then engages and disengages to the crank pullet.
The "prop shaft" floats between the UV collar on the capstan winch and the UV collar on the drive shaft. it is centralised with springs either end to allow the engine to flex and move on its mounts.

OK, I have reviewed the attached manual and see the terms Drive shaft and Prop shaft in the parts list.

I reviewed the 'LR-Winches' website and realised I did not fit their 'Customer profile' :-)
As you say, those prices are motivational, to find another solution!

Good Luck.

[Craig T]

My series one used to have a winch, All the mounting holes are there for it but sadly now missing.
I looked at that website thinking, I'll get another one but at that price I'd rather 3D print one and bolt it on the front. Would look the part and be a lot lighter! 

Craig.

[Peter Holden]

Speak to Rob Maude at LR Optional Equipment
https://www.lroe.co.uk/
I am sure he will be able to help.

Peter

[nathanglasgow]

Yes but aren't his prices in line with Finn Meullers? Rare parts=expensive parts. Sellers market really, that's the beauty of capitalism. 

[charles_s]

Did you find what you needed Tim? I have a nearly complete one and am happy to take measurements. Mine's just missing the final bit of the square section drive shaft that engages with the crank end dog gear (and I would like to know exactly how long that is...)
Charles (2A lightweight)

[Calum]

I borrowed a friend's and measured it up to make my own as I didn't have any drive linkage with mine. The later linkage as fitted to the Fairey capstans is, I believe, a straight swap. I'll dig out the sketches but they are very 'fag packet' standard so don't expect too much!

I simplified the drive shaft which originally has splined ball ends. I use a comparatively crude ball and socket joint with two spigots (cap head bolts) engaging in slots - this was an idea borrowed from the later linkage. The drive shaft is telescopic with a spring inside to keep it pushed home. The small bolt sat in the middle is to stop it springing apart when removed but also transmits the drive. Given the diameter of the brass shear pin I decided a steel bolt here was more than good enough (even acting on a smaller diameter). It is also a lot easier than machining internal and external splines. Likewise on the drive flange it slides along a key rather than the splines of the original.

If I were to do it all again I'd just go with the much simpler later linkage in hindsight but I didn't realise at the time it was interchangeable!

[Tim_Moore]

Any and all information is welcome!

Charles_s if you are able to strip it down and take a bunch of photos of the drive shaft components and measure what you can i would be greatly appreciative.

I thought about using more "standard parts" i wondered if i could find a CV shaft from a FWD car or quad bike that may serve as a good drive shaft alternative...  unfortunately i dont think the wreckers yard will appreciate me rummaging through their CV shaft collection in these COVID times...

[charles_s]

having done some homework (lroe) I must have the GLR101 - is this what you've got? Photo attached so you can see what's there - am happy to measure if you specify exactly which bits you want measuring.