S2C Forum Archives
Main Section => Welcome to our virtual Pub Meeting ... => Topic started by: Wittsend on May 01, 2022, 07:56:34 AM
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Anything interesting ???
:Haynes
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Finished building up a Series 2 axle...
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Lowered it!
(https://i.postimg.cc/NjDpTKGT/B80-AB059-86-F3-4-FA6-944-D-37-DED7-E6-AF79.jpg)
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Tell more... Intrigued!
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It was only low on one side. It was a little crossaxle hillock I was on.
The other side looked like this.
(https://i.postimg.cc/T3w8SM4z/BC762-B68-6-BBE-4-F98-B393-F32-B6290-EBB0.jpg)
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That explains it... I had visions of collapsed chassis, broken springs etc...
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It did look like it had collapsed!
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Changed the engine oil and filter.
It would be a fairly quick job if I was more adept at removing and refitting the oil filter housing.
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Well I fitted a new rear brake hose and tried to bleed brakes. Nipples rounding nicely so I bought a new set. Used socket on rears and they came off nicely and new ones fitted.
Fronts, ah. Access is an issue and nothing tried so far will budge them. Spanners slip and sockets are all too short, or too long !
Mole-grips are next but thought I would take a break and ask a quick question ?
With free-wheel hubs locked should I be able to turn the wheel with little resistance ?
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Tim did you get oil down your arm?
Peter
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Peter, not down my arm, but all over the sliding joint rubber gaitor on my nice new propshaft :thud
And then I found it a fiddle to line up the canister bolt when reassembling it. Something to do with the angle of the canister, holding its oily surface and offering up the bolt while looking up lying on your side so it doesn't land on your face when you drop it. Which I did once >:D
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You could lash out and buy the spin on conversion, not cheap though and the filter is much smaller
Peter
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I've taken to removing the whole filter assembly off the block at oil changes now and sorting it all out on the bench. For the price of a gasket, its a far cleaner option. I'm also finding that no matter how careful I am, I'm getting some failures of the rubber seal at the top. Trying to stop the canister rotating while tightening up the long bolt does reduce the risk - hence doing it on the bench. The quality of the rubber seal in the aftermarket isn't that great either which may be why they split so easily. Now got a stock of genuine upper and lower seals.
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Wouldn't it be easier to fit a spin off conversion? I find changing oil on my 2.5 engine is a doddle and filters are much more easily obtainable.
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Possibly, but in this case, they aren't my vehicles, so have to go with what I've got!
Also in the case of both my own vehicles, I'm trying to keep them as original as possible.
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Went down the Clyde valley for lunch and passed a lovely old Vauxhall Viva in orange coming out of the tearoom car park, had a wee wave to each other. And again going home the same guy coming back the other way, full arm out the window wave this time. A few minutes later an old 110 passed us with a wave, it does make one smile. :RHD
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Today I made some gaskets.
There's only 1 per vehicle, but do you know where ?
Sorry, no prizes.
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Well, as it’s Sunday I read my bible :cheers
But then I flushed and refilled the coolant system :tiphat
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Went to Gaydon. Met some nice people from the club. Great day out.
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Oil change with the obligatory pint of old oil up the sleeve.
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Oil change with the obligatory pint of old oil up the sleeve.
Snap! except it took me two days, because I also took the sump off - first time since ~1993. Cleaned out the sludge. Painted the sump external, and also the filter pot, hence left them to dry overnight. Considered looking at the "filter" on the oil pump too, but in the end came to the conclusion that the Haynes manual has incorrect text as it talks about "simply remove the central bolt", which makes no sense, and also to "remove and replace the filter element". I don't think either exists (drawings don't show them) and it is just a gauze "strainer"?. I syringed some petrol through the bottom of the gauze and it sprayed happily out the top, so I assume this means it is not too gunged up inside, so I left it at that.
Also re-channelled the passenger-side door top, although as I was doing it a whole load of the steel bottom of the door-top came away and left some jaggy edges, so some random aluminium sheet pop-rivetted on to hide the worst of it. It still seems to be stiff enough to the mounting stud, so it will do a couple more years, but it looks like these door-tops have nearly completed their lifespan at ~30 years.
Over the last couple of weeks, re-sealed the tailgate lower. My tailgate has clearly been left down at some stage, while the vehicle has been reversed heavily into something, and one of the the tailgate "hinge" struts is slightly bent, I discovered. I could not see how I could safely bend it back with normal tools, so I elected to leave it as "history", as the tailgate does shut perfectly as is. It did mean a lot of fettling of the sealing rubbers before the tailgate would shut again. However, even without the bend on the one side, the other side required a lot of fettling too, so I am not convinced the seals I got are really the right fit for an old S2. My new riveting tool works a treat, though. The 5/16" long semi-tubular rivets work really well on the vertical seals. On the lower one, I used slightly longer 3/8" long rivets, because my metalwork is not a perfect straight edge, so the longer rivet helps to get the rivet all the way through the metalwork and seal.
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Swapped L488 rear lights for L581s.
Having had a few near-misses from drivers behind me apparently not seeing that I was slowing down and indicating (despite giving *loads* of notice) I wanted to see if I could illuminate things a bit more. No fancy LED bulbs here, just the bigger lenses. Before/after photos below.
Don't mind the weird number-plate-light placement and the fact they're on the wrong side, that's next on the list. I do think I'll keep the number plate light, since the NOS L581s I have don't have the clear glass section at the bottom. I have the reproduction L581 lenses as spares, but am not convinced they'd light up the number plate sufficiently anyway.
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Took off my "Winter Tilt", for a clean and brush down. Rendered a few LR spiders homeless.
Replaced it with my new "Summer Tilt" which I got from Undercover Covers. Effectively, just a roof to stop my rapidly balding pate from getting too sunburned. Door tops off tomorrow.........
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Been promising to get around to this for a while but finally got it done today, added a fuse to the auxilary sockets, they only get used for the tyre pump or inspection lamp so the 10amp fuse should be enough. Also found the gromit for the speedo cable was missing so that might be the cause of the engine breather smell in the cabin, found it had slid down the cable so I refitted it properly by pushing it through and fitted it from the dash side, much easier to get your fingers in, attached the dash panel and the gromit stayed inplace so job done.
:RHD
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Took the Panda camper's cylinder head in for refurbishing .... after 2 years I'm on the last leg.
:RHD
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Fitted a proper radiator to replace the s3 one at last 👍
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Found the soft top and engine bay with 5 busy queen wasps making their own nests. I have kindly dispatched them to live in wasp heaven with my rubber mallet.
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Took a load of hedge clippings to the
tip recycling centre. Trailer (small) full and 5 garden bags worth in the car.
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You must have a big hedge ....
:RHD
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Came into work in it this morning as my disco is getting new tyres today :stars
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You must have a big hedge ....
:RHD
A neighbour's 40 odd year old Leylandii hedge to be precise. The bulk of the clippings were from a section about 50' long by 4' thick that was reduced in height by about 18". Today realised another 3 garden bags of normal "haircut" trimmings duly taken to the tip recycling centre. There're also another two dumpy bags full of yesterday's clippings to go! (Too big to fit in the Landy or my "tip acceptable" little trailer, so waiting on a "trailer permit" to allow me to take an 8'*4' trailer in.) :stars
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My first trip out in Betsy in a long time. Down to the local garden centre for some bags of slate and back home . Just over 6.5 miles and happy to report all gears working fine :-* Also the first time I’ve completed a journey in a long time without crunching any gears.
Andy
ps. I took the missus and we’re still talking 😀
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Another photo
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Saturday was a lovely day here, bright sun, 20 something degree temperatures, perfect day to get the Land Rover out, do an oil change, give it a clean, have a look at a leaking hub seal and drive her back home again.
Sunday was a horrible wet day, rained pretty much non stop but felt we still had to go somewhere seeing as I'd just got the Land Rover back on the road so went for a drive to Petworth house.
Craig.
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I concur... I spent Sunday standing in a field at Beaulieu getting rained on. Not sure if I've quite dried out yet, but cleared out a lot of surplus stuff including much of my collection of knackered door handle / latch assemblies.
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Sorting out the wiring and the instrument panel. I removed a non working aftermarket temperature gauge from the centre panel and now I have a bodged 52mm hole that needs attention.
It might be easier to replace the panel with a better one from Ebay.
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Do you mean the panel with the big clocks
I might have a spare depending on which one you need aphoto of what you have may help
Peter
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Do you mean the panel with the big clocks
I might have a spare depending on which one you need aphoto of what you have may help
Peter
Yes its the main panel. A previous owner installed a temperature gauge (big hole) between the two gauges. It doesn't look bad in the photo but it is actually a fairly rough hole. I could fill it or maybe cover it with something else. It's never going to look great though.
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Richard
I have these 2
Send me a message if you are interested in either
Peter
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The old girl returned from the garage today with a few improvements. The first 3 were the result of advice and suggestions on the subject a few months back, thank you!
Powerspark electronic ignition kit, sports coil, and double silicone HT leads.
Holden's distributor.
Carburettor Exchange refurbished Zenith carburettor .
New fuel tank.
Prop shaft and UJ.
And a general service.
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It should go like a bomb now :first
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It should go like a bomb now :first
Hope to have a test drive tomorrow. Like a bomb you say Alan, should I expect an earth shattering 0 to 60 :agh
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Nice and warm so took a quick spin to test out a newly hacked/fitted Zenith bitsa carb, the top half from one unit which had a suspected bad bottom half, and the bottom half from a unit that had an odd top half but an appararently good bottom half. Seemed to go okay.
Some amusement followed, as we were pulled over by the Rozzers. As I pulled over I was wondering if it was lack of roof, doortops, perhaps apparent lack of brake lights (they do work but it takes a decent press), lack of seatbelts, or some other issue. Anyway, clearly the cop-van camera/computer had flagged up "lack of MOT", since my last was in April 2018, before the rules updated in May '18. There then followed a 5-minute amiable chat, during which the officers used their phones to google the MOT rules and eventually (with some surprise) admitted that they'd had no idea there was any such 40 year exemption rule. Then followed a brief period when they admired my wheels, before I tootled away, back home to BBQ many sausages for the family :)
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I cannot believe that any officer working on Traffic management should not know the MoT exemption rules by now.
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That's a bit worrying, even if they were rookies their computer system and their training should have covered Classic Vehicles.
:plod
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Nice and warm so took a quick spin to test out a newly hacked/fitted Zenith bitsa carb, the top half from one unit which had a suspected bad bottom half, and the bottom half from a unit that had an odd top half but an appararently good bottom half. Seemed to go okay.
Some amusement followed, as we were pulled over by the Rozzers. As I pulled over I was wondering if it was lack of roof, doortops, perhaps apparent lack of brake lights (they do work but it takes a decent press), lack of seatbelts, or some other issue. Anyway, clearly the cop-van camera/computer had flagged up "lack of MOT", since my last was in April 2018, before the rules updated in May '18. There then followed a 5-minute amiable chat, during which the officers used their phones to google the MOT rules and eventually (with some surprise) admitted that they'd had no idea there was any such 40 year exemption rule. Then followed a brief period when they admired my wheels, before I tootled away, back home to BBQ many sausages for the family :)
Unfortunately, not surprised in the slightest. :shakeinghead
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I went to the Sussex area pub meet last night and for the first time, went in my IIA.
We had a good turn out, One Series II lightweight, 7 series II/IIA's and one 110.
Nice to use the Land Rover and see how good the 55 year old sealed beam headlights are on the way home again..... :cheers
Craig.
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Craig did you drive home in the dark?
Peter
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I left the pub at 9pm so semi-dark
In the end I discovered that no other drivers seemed to notice if my lights were on dip or main beam so I just left them on main....!
The illuminated patch of road ahead on dip beam is pretty small.
Craig.
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I managed to break the arm on my Tex magna indicator. :shakeinghead So I'm looking for an arm or a complete assembly if someone has one. Doesn't matter what condition, so long as it has the arm. Preferably not looking to pay an arm and a leg!
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Took part in the Inverness Classic Car show and paraded the Landie down the High Street. Great day out
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Built another gearbox...
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I managed to break the arm on my Tex magna indicator. :shakeinghead So I'm looking for an arm or a complete assembly if someone has one. Doesn't matter what condition, so long as it has the arm. Preferably not looking to pay an arm and a leg!
I've managed to fix a few broken arms by careful drilling on the pillar drill and using 1mm pins to stick the broken bits back together. Can you post up a pic of the broken bit
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Turned some drifts and support guides ready to refurb an eight hole water pump to replace my leaking one
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Gave myself zinc poisoning Welding a removable extension together for my roof rack.
1/10 - wouldn’t recommend welding old galvanised things together even if you are outside and have a decent welding mask!
Happy with the result however!
(https://i.ibb.co/LQVZjdv/2-C002-C30-179-F-43-B3-B843-C6-D1-DD1338-C3.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3fgC6mk)
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Built another gearbox...
Do you rebuild gearboxes on a regular basis? Just wondering.
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Went to our NW pub meet which wasnt at a pub at all. We were at the Leyland Commercial Vehicle Museum.
A good turnout 14 series 2 and 3 land rovers plus an absolutely immaculate early range rover
Thanks to dave Marrin for organising, I am sure photos will emmerge in due course.
Peter
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Popped this on the bumper for a test fit, Its getting bolted down and wired up today.
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300 mile round trip to get my daughter to her best friend's birthday party. Picked up a number of spares on the way to make it worthwhile...
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Do you rebuild gearboxes on a regular basis? Just wondering.
I've done just a few over the years... I don't do it on a commercial basis, more as a bit of a hobby these days. I've done a few for S2C and LRSOC members. Still like to get paid something for it though! PM me if you want to discuss.
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My round Smiths heater sprung a leak took it out this morning stripped it down in the shed but how can you get inside the coils ? is it possible or can it not be fixed ???
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The Smiths heater core is a sealed (soldered) unit and can't be taken apart any more than you have.
One of my future jobs is to remove the centre of the old core leaving the outside intact and see if I can make a new core from a coil of copper tubes. I haven't got around to trying yet though....
You can buy a new core from a company called Clayton but personally I don't like the look of them.
Craig.
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The Smiths heater core is a sealed (soldered) unit and can't be taken apart any more than you have.
One of my future jobs is to remove the centre of the old core leaving the outside intact and see if I can make a new core from a coil of copper tubes. I haven't got around to trying yet though....
You can buy a new core from a company called Clayton but personally I don't like the look of them.
Craig.
Thanks for that thought that might be the outcome i was thinking along the same lines as using copper tube. Looks like i will have to bypass it for the time being.
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That is exactly what I have done, took off the hoses and fitted a short loop between the copper pipe and the engine block tap until I find time to strip the heater out and see what I can do to repair it.
If I get anywhere making a new core I'll post a thread about it.
Craig.
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There is a magazine article from years ago of someone making their own core, it looked complicated and hard work getting the coils right and soldeing the fins on.
Peter
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Spring 2004 had an article!
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Diagnosed the steering shudder post pothole as a knackered Track Rod End.
Part on order...
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Hello Gene
Could I ask if it's just a quick shudder or an elongated one please?
I've had a similar experience on 3 occasions over the last month or so when
the left hand wheel goes over a substantial pot hole, except that mine starts as
a shudder and quickly escalates into a mad violent frenzy.
The only way I can stop it was to slow right down to an almost stop and then accelerate
away again.
I was thinking that the left hand swivel ball might need adjusting a little tighter as
I replaced both last year and didn't know if one may have settled to less that 12lb
pull, but I've never had that happen on any I've done in the past.
Maybe I'll check all the track rod ends first as that's a lot easier.
Anyway, just curious as to your symptom.
Thank you
Graham
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Hello Gene
Could I ask if it's just a quick shudder or an elongated one please?
A fairly violent shudder requiring a very hard grip on the steering to stop it, whole event lasting several seconds.
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... also check your steering relay fit in the chassis ... if could have worked loose. A lot of modern relays are a very sloppy fit in replacement chassis, whereas original relays in original chassis were pretty much an interference fit. If the relay is a loose fit then all that holds it "solid" at the bottom is those 4 little 1/4" UNF bolts and the flange, and all that holds it "solid" at the top is those two long 1/4" bolts that fit through oversized holes in the relay casting. All in all it can wobble about quite a lot, and even eventually destroy the 1/4" bolts and/or the threads in the chassis if they get worked loose (this happened to me). I ended up packing my relay into the chassis with multiple shims made out of old Sainsbury's 2L olive oil tins, so that it is held rock solid in the chassis now. I also had to Helicoil all four bolts on the underside to make new secure fixings.
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Thank you Gene and Andrew, I'll check it all out at the weekend.
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There is a magazine article from years ago of someone making their own core, it looked complicated and hard work getting the coils right and soldeing the fins on.
Peter
I have seen that article and agree, it wasn't straight forward.
I'm hoping to simplify the process somewhat and retain the original core on the outside so you can't tell it's been done. I have a plan rolling around in my mind.... :stars
Craig.
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Investigated the oil leaks (well someone's got to try!).
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A phone call from the National Park... "There is a car broken down in the Forest, do you have any jump-leads..." Happy Camper in a Volvo seems to have left his lights on overnight. Tonka to the rescue !
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I have seen that article and agree, it wasn't straight forward.
I'm hoping to simplify the process somewhat and retain the original core on the outside so you can't tell it's been done. I have a plan rolling around in my mind.... :stars
Craig.
like it can't wait to here the result
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Replaced the nearside Track rod end.
Problem diagnosed on Tuesday afternoon, part ordered from PA Blanchard Tuesday evening, shipped Weds, arrived here in Scotland with Royal Mail at lunchtime, fitted and vehicle "task-worthy" again. Well done PA Blanchard, great service as usual.
Hopefully the tracking will be OK, the TRE was basically screwed almost fully in, so I've just replicated that ! I'll check to see if there is any sign of scrubbing after its done a few miles...
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Removed the offside fuel tank and re-soldered the filler tube as it had cracked.
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Wandered round the Haslemere Car Show this afternoon. Saw 3 Series ones, an early 2 door Classic RR, a Series 3 Lightweight and this...
Looks like its a S2C member - anybody on here?
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Washed it. :tiphat
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Washed it?
I thought I was the only one who did that on here.
I did go into the garage last night and patted the Landy as I passed.
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Used my IIA to drag my next restoration project out the hedge and into the workshop.
Craig.
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Pulled a tree stump from front garden
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Played musical chairs in shifting the 1960 S2 and the 63 Aussie 2a in preparation for the arrival of "Mr Scabby" a 1982 109" ex army General Service on Wednesday. Both started easily after sitting for a couple of weeks. This afternoon went to collect a set of hood sticks for Mr Scabby which turned up on Facebook, and bought a 5mb engine from the seller.
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I took YOD on a round trip of 50 miles today to go to Chris Gregson's wake, only 2 years after he died. It was good to meet his family.
Peter
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Washed it?
I thought I was the only one who did that on here.
I did go into the garage last night and patted the Landy as I passed.
Well, she's off to Abergavenny Steam and Vintage on Friday with Helga (Eriba Puck) in tow. And it's over a year for both since their last scrub up!