S2C Forum Archives
Main Section => Welcome to our virtual Pub Meeting ... => Topic started by: Wittsend on April 30, 2021, 11:59:37 PM
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Anything interesting ???
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I tried to figure out why I can't pull the wiper motor handles out far enough so the switch can be turned on. Was able to do it before the blades were installed; I know the wipers aren't causing it. I'll ask about this in a separate post later though.
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While underneath gromet greasing the greasy bits and oiling the oily bits found a wet inner wheel turns out to be a leaking break cylinder
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While underneath gromet greasing the greasy bits and oiling the oily bits found a wet inner wheel turns out to be a leaking break cylinder
No, that's a leaking broken brake cylinder or perhaps a brake cylinder with a break in it! :-\
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No, that's a leaking broken brake cylinder or perhaps a brake cylinder with a break in it! :-\
Spelling mistake put down to watching the snooker while posting 😂
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Working on the Series 3 - but the tailgate I was repairing is a S2 item [I think]. Quite weird actually as it is on the tub from a 109" ex military 1984 S3 which was demobbed in 1999.
The thing was floppy as anything and 2" twisted at the closing point.
Not the prettiest thing but is now squared up and rivetted in place of the broken spot welds, and has a plate over the centre rib where the military had the pick-axe bracket.
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I drove to the hardware store and back. :-\
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Started on the rebuild of my 5MB engine. Cleaned the block and then refitted the crankshaft. That's enough for today - might do pistons tomorrow if my nerve holds.
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Brakes, brakes, brakes .... such an endless continuation, but my girls are already slowing down and I'm very happy.
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A trip to Q&B in the sunshine
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Located the "new" oil leak. It seems the blob of Chemical Metal filling the hole made by an escaping diff tooth 20 years ago has finally come adrift.....
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Bit of a change from 5 days ago.
Paint job is absolute rubbish from up close as I made no attempt to smooth off irregularities from all the previous repairs or damage, but I was always a function over form person when it came to the finish.
It is stuck and doing its protection job plus it will not attract the attention from the boys in blue that a multi coloured bitsa would
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New battery in, new HT leads in, new spark plugs in. Also hopefully fixed a wiring issue that was affecting my full beam headlights. And put a door card back on that i repaired.
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Giving this rust removal by electrolysis malarkey a go. Seems to be working so far. The rusty bit of landrover in the solution is one half of an ex mil divided rim.
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Id be very interested to see how that rust removal game works out. Keep us posted...!
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I'd say it's fairly effective. I let it fizz away for 24hrs and then a blast with the power washer exposed clean metal. It does leave a slightly blackened surface which looks like a quick pass with the wire wheel should leave a surface ready for primer. First pic is as removed from solution prior to washing. The divided rim is probably too far gone to use safely but as an experiment it was a worthwhile exercise. I used sodium carbonate to make the solution.
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I refurbished the steering wheel, filling the cracks with miliput, sanding back to smooth and painting. The jury is out on miliput for me. Not easy to work with - a bit too dry. I wonder if araldite would have been better or the two part wood filler that works well. Still, very happy with the result.
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Finished preparing the pistons and inserted them into the block
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I refurbished the steering wheel, filling the cracks with miliput, sanding back to smooth and painting. The jury is out on miliput for me. Not easy to work with - a bit too dry. I wonder if araldite would have been better or the two part wood filler that works well. Still, very happy with the result.
How old is it?
Miliput has a shelf life of about two years. If too dry - it's probably old.
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I bought it a month ago so new to me. Perhaps slow moving stock for the supplier?
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Just checked my packet. I've been using Milliput for some years. I write on the box the expiry date. I've also noted that when the blue stick goes hard, it is no longer at its best.
I buy mine from a model shop - they have a good turnover of stock.
I can easily squeeze mine, so it's pliable but not wet. If it crumbles, then it's too old.
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Today we have been doing Politics.
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Got a bit carried away with my plasma cutter...
Just need to remember to take the grab handles off before it all goes!
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Ready for the new chassis...
New wiring harness is ready and then its waiting for Rob Owen to build the bulkhead.
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Plasma cutter - best toy ever! :-X
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Got a bit carried away with my plasma cutter...
Just need to remember to take the grab handles off before it all goes!
what a carnage!
You only recovered the handles of all that? ???
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May be carnage, but it was fun!
I did save a couple of outriggers which had been badly welded on, but perfectly usable for another day. I thought I could save the rear cross member, but even though that's only been fitted recently (and badly), the rust had got to that too!
I didn't even bother to try and remove the steering relay. I reckon it would be easier to remove one of the prop shafts on the Titanic.
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That's very true :stars :stars :stars :-X
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just got my head back in just over £220 lighter now ,
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Seat Box restoration, boy did it need it!
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Chassis arrived yesterday. Made good progress with the rebuild today.
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Chassis arrived yesterday. Made good progress with the rebuild today.
Wow, at that rate it will be on the road by Monday!! :o
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I've ordered 4 Avon Rangemaster tyres from Blackcircles.
£111.67 each, including VAT, Delivery (to local garage) Fitting, Balancing and Disposal costs.
That`ll do very nicely
:grinder
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That is fast, I can see new brake lines and steering relay, but apart from that is it just a straight swap-over of parts that you are doing?
Simon.
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Pedal Box strip down, here are a few 'before' pictures. I have managed to get the retaining pin out of the pedal shaft but the shaft isn't budging. I do have a friend with a press so i think I'll head over there at the weekend.
Planning on having the master cylinder resleeved by Past Parts.
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As you have the pedal box out seriously consider my pedal box mod where you weld in 2 x 1" 5/16" UNF screws which then act as studs.
This means you can remove the m/c at any time in the future with just one spanner.
Of course, with a sleeved m/c you might think you'll never need to remove the m/c ever again ???
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/clutch_pedal004.jpg)
:brakes
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Thanks Alan, I will most definitely be doing this modification. I had noticed that you'd posted this a while back and had the thread bookmarked. :tiphat
As for the sleeving, if i never have to remove the M/C again then fine but I'd rather plan for it than not!
George
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Transported a divan base back home yesterday from Broadway on the roofrack. LIDL Evesham had a handy pack of 4 ratchet strap tiedowns for a tenner which I used to secure it instead of the assortment of bungees I took with me.
Also a chat in the Evesham Waitrose carpark with a fellow S2 fan. He showed me a picture of his (same year as mine) and I showed him my 200Tdi/LT77 installation.
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Angle grinder you should have bought from ATS, £98 each fitted. They often have these tyres on offer
Peter
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Angle grinder you should have bought from ATS, £98 each fitted. They often have these tyres on offer
Peter
Hi Peter,
I thought my nearest ATS was 30 miles away, but on checking there's one 20 miles away. Not too late to cancel.
You're a real gent :tiphat
:grinder
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That is fast, I can see new brake lines and steering relay, but apart from that is it just a straight swap-over of parts that you are doing?
Simon.
It was originally going to be a bulkhead replacement, but we had a small case of mission creep! There wasn't enough steel to attach the bulkhead to. Then I had to overhaul the front axle and do all the wheel bearings and brakes. Then I found the rear axle tube was leaking and had to be welded up! All that was prepared in advance last week - hence the ability to build it up quickly.
I'm half crippled today, so obviously over did it a bit, so not so much progress this afternoon. I dumped and refilled the oils today and ran a pull through wire for the chassis harness. Steering relay fitted and secured properly and all the steering rods overhauled, checked, adjusted and tightened.
That will probably be it for a bit. Adam at the Wiring Harness Company has built a new harness which should arrive in then next couple of days. Then I've got to sit and wait for Rob Owen to build the bulkhead. I'll post a bit more when the bulkhead arrives.
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Finally sorted out the brakes on my long term back burner pre-Covid rebuild project. The brakes have been soggy/non functional on it for more years that I can remember - about 6 years or so? It's so long ago since the brakes went soggy I can't remember when or why they went bad. I have replaced all the wheel cylinders, brake lines; rebuilt the master cylinder twice, reset the pedal height and actuating rod free play three times, cracked open the rear of the master cylinder to let out any trapped air, changed the brake shoes and springs, bled the brake lines until I was blue in the face and still had a soggy pedal with non functioning brakes. Finally last night I thought I should test the not so old flexible hoses. Clamped them off near the wheel cylinders; soggy pedal. Clamped them off near the other end: firm pedal. Bought three new flexible hoses: firm pedal. :-* :-* :-*
The hoses were dated 2012, but probably bought and fitted in 2014. The new hoses I just bought are dated 2019. I thought hoses were good until you start using them (this certainly applies to camping gas hoses). I thought they would last longer than 9 years, but lesson has been learnt and I will replace the hoses more frequently in future.
Tomorrow I hope to do a road test, after I have put the doors back on.
David
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Land Rover recommend that all hoses/rubber seal and fluid be changed every 3 years or 39,000 miles (whichever comes 1st).
I wouldn't be wanting to use old stock hoses.
I've circumvented that problem by using s/s braided PTFE flexi hoses all round (inc. clutch).
:try-your-brakes
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Yes, about those brakes: Bleeding the *&%^$ brakes is a pain in the backside for me. I really should clear out the garage that I would have a better work area. (In the street the traffic tends to run over my feet. Or, I could just tuck them under.)
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Given that Colorado is 10% larger in land area than the UK, but has a population of about 5m as opposed to our ludicrous 67m, I'd venture that the populace of Fountain may not be making the best use of available space!
The use of legs as a traffic calming measure isn't great for long term health prospects, so I'd strongly recommend a clear out of the garage...! You never know what you might find in there - maybe a long lost Navajo tribe...
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I've circumvented that problem by using s/s braided PTFE flexi hoses all round (inc. clutch).
Alan, I’ve been considering doing exactly that on my 1959 S2. Where did you get yours from? Anything special to be aware of?
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I used Merlin Motorsport (https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/) rather than by a boxed kit, they made me up Goodridge hoses to the length I wanted with 3/8" UNF fittings, with all the half nuts and copper washers needed.
Plenty of decent motor sport/rally accessory shops should be able to do this.
:RHD
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Ordered a new Canvas for the 88 from Undercover covers. Looks like it'll be staying for a while with us. Well at least till the 109 back on the road.
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I used Merlin Motorsport (https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/) rather than by a boxed kit, they made me up Goodridge hoses to the length I wanted with 3/8" UNF fittings, with all the half nuts and copper washers needed.
:RHD
Thank you Alan. I'll take a look.
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Investigated a leak on the N/S swivel.
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Angle grinder you should have bought from ATS, £98 each fitted. They often have these tyres on offer
Peter
Hi Peter,
ATS online do have the £98 offer. However, speaking to their local centre, he thinks it does not include the tube. Which is another £15 (= £60)
He`s going to check with his HQ tomorrow and let me know what it should be. If he is correct, then ATS would not be as good a deal as Blackcircles.
:grinder
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Checked the battery, been connected to a wee solar battery conditioner for six years and occasionally turning the engine over but now the Landie is all back together and working the battery has been getting used a little but probably not enough to charge the battery. The battery was showing just over 12 volts so the solar thingy was connected last week and now the battery is sitting at 12.7 volts so all is good, really need a long run to somewhere both as a shakedown and to check the battery is charging properly.
The solar battery conditioner was a LIDL special but it works a treat.
Dave.
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Hi Peter,
ATS online do have the £98 offer. However, speaking to their local centre, he thinks it does not include the tube. Which is another £15 (= £60)
He`s going to check with his HQ tomorrow and let me know what it should be. If he is correct, then ATS would not be as good a deal as Blackcircles.
:grinder
I didnt realise that Black Circles included the tube.
Peter
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I didnt realise that Black Circles included the tube.
Peter
I emailed Blackcircles customer service to ask that question. Their reply "the tyres you have ordered are already tubed"
Taking that at face value, the £111.67 with Blackcircles still looks pretty good.
I`ll let you know if tomorrows phone call changes that.
Edit: The tyres from BC are delivered to a tyre centre 3 miles away. ATS would be 20 miles. That makes the BC deal even sweeter :cheers
:grinder
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The comment "already tubed" needs some explanation. Do they mean that they are tubeless tyres?
If you are not in a rush then ATS do sometimes have offers on, at one stage last year they were selling them at £85 each.
Peter
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Yes, about those brakes: Bleeding the *&%^$ brakes is a pain in the backside for me. I really should clear out the garage that I would have a better work area. (In the street the traffic tends to run over my feet. Or, I could just tuck them under.)
Hey... I'm only about 520 miles from you - you could borrow the shop I use. I use my father's, it use to be a maintenance shop for excavation equipment. The garage at home is in desperate need of a good cleaning and reorganization as well, but even then their is barely room for Grover. Once the roof is back in place, and if the parabolic don't loosen up, Grover won't even fit through the door.
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Often the tubes you have are perfectly serviceable. I've never had to buy new tubes. The old tubes are examined and re-used.
I would only replace a patched tube.
:RHD
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The comment "already tubed" needs some explanation. Do they mean that they are tubeless tyres?
Peter
Hi Peter,
Your words of caution were well made :tiphat, thanks. I emailed BC again for clarification. They apologized for the confusion and confirmed tubes are not included.
wittsend has posted re using current tubes, didn't occur to me because I thought new would be required. Thank you wittsend :tiphat
Now I just need to decide whether to wait for ATS to have a sale :stars and wondering how long that might be.
:grinder
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What did you do with your Series 2 today ? About 8 miles.
That is 8 miles more than it has done in the last four years. The newly rebuilt 2286 diesel is rather black smoky so I might have to tweak the pump timing a bit. I will also need to tighten up all the spring bush bolts, because I have left them loose for the shake down trip; and believe me it does shake!
David
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ATS Club 60 gives 15% discount if your are over that age.
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ATS Club 60 gives 15% discount if your are over that age.
Wow 15% and a bus pass :tiphat
:grinder
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I'm still waiting for my bus pass - 66 these days!
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I'm still waiting for my bus pass - 66 these days!
Hi Tim,
Of course, forgetting its changed. 6 months until I can ask for one, but might not bother if I can still drive the 2a. Fred :tiphat
:grinder
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Busy one today, Paddocks order arrived with alloy transfer box sump plate, sadly no mice. Now fitted, hopefully to retain a little more of the oil in the boxes!
Emptied the 20l drum of EP90 doing the above....ordering another is tonight's job.
Passed a new Defender for the first time in the Series today, he didn't wave. :RHD
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Nice new Wiring Harness Company delivery today. Ran the chassis harness through and got the grommets in place. That took a few goes. Ended up running an endoscope down the chassis to find out why. Just a stray bit of weld obstructing progress. Fitted the engine harness.
The WHC harnesses are a work of art. This is my second one in the last 12 months and really impressed. When I come to do my 1965 SW, I'll be hassling Adam again.
Rebuilt the bottom of the rear tub (new underside supports) and plonked it on. It fits well. So far so good on this Shielder chassis. The proof will be when Rob Owen's bulkhead arrives.
Dampers and check straps fitted.
Looked at the steering column support brackets - decided they are too rusty, so I'll be adding to my parts order next week. This car has a voracious appetite for parts. Its also got a healthy appetite for new UNF fixings - I'll have to restock!
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150 mile trip up from Norfolk to South Yorkshire to visit boat. Coming up to 6,000 miles on rebuilt hybrid diesel, and it continues to loosen up with amazing fuel consumption and smoother idle. It was burning a little oil though which I put down to too many short runs during winter and Covid restrictions. Hopefully the good long thrash today and return via Hull tomorrow, will wipe off the bore glaze.
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Does it still count if it was yesterday?
Drove to the Covid 19 :nursey centre to have my 2nd vaccination.
My 1st administered by an NHS nurse and this one by a guy from the St John Ambulance.
Thank you NHS and all the helpers :o
:grinder
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:ditto
I think most of us live in yesterday's world :stars
Today I found my long lost favourite spanner - 5/16W which I use to check the drive flange screws (amongst other things) :first
It was hidden under a floor plate and some rags I have in the back of the Panda camper.
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Refitted the skew gear. That's a horrible job.
Then found that I'd forgotten to order an oil seal for the timing case.
Fitted the spin-on oil filter adapter and fuel pump.
Andrew
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To the man who invented the Helicoil insert - a thousand praises - I will be forever grateful!
Finally managed to get my thermostat housing apart!!! :first
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First a trip to the garden centre then into the woods to clear fallen trees obstructing access to our water pipe. Cleared them away and filled a load of sandbags to protect the pipe as it crosses the river - spring floods unearthed it, again.
Now waiting for the ibuprofen to kick in.... :'(
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Finished scrubbing and painting the axles. That probably hadn't been done since 1988. I always used to think of the axles as indestructible but I read a few posts about people having holes rust through them. I am curious how thick the plate is on the "back" of the diff casing. Maybe not very thick? It looks to be the most fragile part of the axle from a rust perspective. It would be a shame to get a rust hole in it from the outside. Not a particularly quality job as I was doing it under the vehicle in bad light and various bits were oily/dirty. Did my best to clean, scrub and degrease but I am sure some parts will peel off and I will need to go over them again next spring. I was also curious how the back-plate of the hub assembly can remain so rust free. Various other bits of exposed steel on the axles seem to rust relatively quickly, but the back plates and some other parts seem to be much more immune, and I couldn't explain it by them being oil-soaked like some other parts, because they weren't (mostly).
Then tried to complete the job of adjusting the brakes for the summer. Hit a major stumbling block with one of them, which would not tighten. Turns out I have "MTX" which I guess must be Mintex pads on the front. These are several years old now. I don't have sheared pins, but this one was badly skewed. From the rear side, it didn't look like it had been bent in use, more like it had been skewed from manufacture on day one. It looked like any attempt to straighten it would shear it, so I elected to shim it with an old nut that fitted just right, filed round on the outside, with a washer shim and loctited on. I suppose the spring will hold it in place anyway. Now I can adjust it up, but I think I'll buy a new pair (or two) of pads so I have them on hand.
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:-\
Drum brakes have shoes, not pads!
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Installed my NOS gauge cluster from Pangolin 4X4. I now have a fuel gauge that works, finally. ('62 109 2 door ST) The new gauge was in its original package. They actually hermetically sealed the unit from the manufacturer. Isn't it great that many NOS parts are available for these trucks? I will now have the old one rebuilt by Nisongers. (sp?).
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Fitted the remote breathers to the overdrive and transfer box.
Thanks to Robin
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I loosened the six shackle bolts holding on the rear springs.
I was pleasantly surprised at how easy this was to do.
I was expecting much more difficulty considering this vehicle has been used for most of sixty plus years of snow plowing in often salty conditions.
Next job is to actually change the springs.
John
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Fitted the remote breathers to the overdrive and transfer box.
Thanks to Robin
Nice job , but what is the purpose of these please ?
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Finally got my rudimentary hazard warning system fitted and wired in. And it works !
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Nice job , but what is the purpose of these please ?
If the oil pressure gets too high, for example if the oil is very hot, then the excess goes up the tube and then returns when the pressure returns to normal.
If you don't have these then there's a risk of the excess oil blowing out through a seal or gasket (which was happening to my overdrive)
The same mod is good for your axles, for the same reason.
Andrew
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If the oil pressure gets too high, for example if the oil is very hot, then the excess goes up the tube and then returns when the pressure returns to normal.
If you don't have these then there's a risk of the excess oil blowing out through a seal or gasket (which was happening to my overdrive)
The same mod is good for your axles, for the same reason.
Andrew
Ok thanks
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Nice job , but what is the purpose of these please ?
The purpose is to relive the pressure created by the heat and such inside the axle housings, gearbox, transfer-case and overdrive if you have one.
The axles have the old style that tends to get clogged and/or rusted shut - supposedly the original breather design wasn't very good.
The remote breathers are usually linked together via a manifold, which is then connected to a small snorkel placed somewhere on the Rover - in a spot that usually won't get submerged in water, or dirt or crud.
Something that really needs to be done, especially in re those on the gearbox and transfer-case, is the installation of baffles under the breathers. You really don't want to allow gear oil to go up inside the breather tubing, eventually it will get clogged and creat the problem your trying to prevent. The baffles help prevent this, but still helps to relive the pressure.
In the following pics you can see the layout on mine. I've included a couple pics of the baffle I made for the transfer-case as well as the snorkel. The snorkel is made of a brass 90 with brass mesh. I think I did a more detailed write-up on here somewhere.
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What are the plastic tee's and elbows?
Where did you get them?
Years ago on my first Rover I just used drilled out grease nipples and clear plastic tube. Still seems ok today.
John
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What are the plastic tee's and elbows?
Where did you get them?
Years ago on my first Rover I just used drilled out grease nipples and clear plastic tube. Still seems ok today.
John
Robin of this parish produces the necessary sets
See his listing here (https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/index.php/topic,4958.msg54929.html#msg54929)
HTH
Andrew
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What are the plastic tee's and elbows?
Where did you get them?
Years ago on my first Rover I just used drilled out grease nipples and clear plastic tube. Still seems ok today.
John
For the axles I used the LR remote axle breather pipe, part #595473. These are for tge Series; the Defender versions are metric.
The connectors are pneumatic push connector fittings that are quick release and the tubing is the matching nylon in 1/4". You can buy individual parts from various places, or kits, such as the ones linked above.
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Landrover related.... set to work to replace a damaged mudguard on the Ifor Williams. Elderly trailer, had a hard life, still going strong... the mudguard attaches to two ( badly bent) L shaped brackets, fine, except they are held in place by the spring eye bolts which run through spring eye bushes very similar to a landrover....with the same issues when it comes to removing them. The front bolt was stuck solid in the bush, cut it with the magic spark machine, I'm now needing to do the "cut a slit in the outer bush wall in order to collapse it so it comes out" game. ....and buy a new bush. Also as expected, my junior hacksaw blade is rubbish and needs replaced. Also as expected, the Ifor Williams bush is well made, with a thick steel wall....
A job for tomorrow.
Another of those "Half hour" jobs that take two days ?
:-X
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Installed some shiny new pipes. :cheers
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Started the investigation of if gearbox clutch is stuck or out of alignment and my m8 turned up to help give a hand he loves getting up to mine away from everywhere and be able to just lend a hand in peace and quiet at a pace that suits us both so hopefully by end of week we both have it sorted .
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Finally got round to returning the wing fronts to something a bit closer to original. They had been 'upgraded' to late 2a/3 lights in wings style sometime in the 1980s I think. Still not totally original to Military Rover 10 as they had the lights vertical rather that horizontal side by side. Maybe a job for later!
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Picked up my bulkhead from the galvanisers, very nice it is too!
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Looking good. Seems a shame to paint it :tiphat
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Looking good. Seems a shame to paint it :tiphat
I got it done at Highland Galvanisers in Cumbernauld (what's it called?) and was a bit nervous about leaving it there as the 'process' seemed a bit shambolic - 'aye... just leave it over there pal' was the only instruction I got!
However, it has come out really well and now, as you say, I have to prep it for paint, I cant say i am looking forward to this part..
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I took a load of green waste to the tip. It seemed to be idling a bit fast so when I got back, with a warm engine, I slowed the idle down to ~500 from 750. I then wondered how slow it would idle so I carried on reducing the rate until it nearly stalled, the RPM was ~250 although I don't think the meter is too happy at that slow speed. You could almost count each firing stroke
Has anyone gone lower?
Malcolm
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The 2.5 petrol in my Series 3 will tick over very slowly but I don't have a rev counter but it can't be too far off of 250.
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I should have said that mine is a standard 2.25 petrol. The only extra is a home made CD ignition system.
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I am repairing my axle case between the spring and the hub on the passenger side where the reinforcing was. I unbolted it from the springs, disconnected the prop and the brake pipes, drained it and then just rolled it over on the springs so that I could work from the top. After cleaning the rust off I was left with a row of pinholes., these grew when cleaning. Most are now welded up and I will finish it tomorrow night.
Peter
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Snap... I did the same job last week in exactly the same place!
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I think the reinforcing must have sat full of mud for years, it was changing off when the car came to me. I am also replacing both rear brake cylinders. The bracket that holds the 3 way union to the diff has finally rotted off so I have made one that is held by one of the diff mounting bolts.
I ordered my cylinders from Island 4x4 yesterday and they arrived at 8.30 this morning
Peter
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At the weekend I finally got all my brake slippers adjusted up nicely, after having to modify one of the mintex ones which had a bent (but not sheared) pin, meaning it could not be adjusted properly. Then I finally managed to get the brakes properly bled and a complete system flush by doing the front end while pointing up a steep hill, and then the back end while pointing down a steep hill. The brakes are the best they have been for a couple of years, now they have finally bedded in with the very limited number of miles I've been able to cover during the last year or so. I think I could lock all four wheels now if I wanted, which wasn't the case for a while and it was making me nervous.
Took a run over to the seaside (Largs) and up and over many hills on the way there and back as a reward, and to spread the oil around a bit.
Last couple of evenings, finally got around to tinkering with a Zenith I purchased off a Forum member, to see what it would be like, having been running a Weber for the last 30 years. Took a bit of tinkering as, for some reason, some of the throttle linkage was back-to-front and upside down. Also the float valve was initially stuck, which I discovered when the first priming of petrol flooded out down into the inlet manifold. It seemed to free itself after popping the top off and jiggling a bit, and blowing it through a couple of times. It looked really clean inside which was a nice surprise. Then it fired up first time, idling like a tractor. Maybe get a test run tomorrow if the sun is out, and see how it goes on the road.
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Collected more galvanised parts!
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Those look great. Highland galvanised didn't come up when I searched for galvanising in Scotland for some reason but they seem like a good option. Do they do sand blasting as well or did you get that done elsewhere? And if you do t mind me asking how much do they charge for bundles of small parts? I couldn't find prices on their website. Cheers
Malcolm
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Those look great. Highland galvanised didn't come up when I searched for galvanising in Scotland for some reason but they seem like a good option. Do they do sand blasting as well or did you get that done elsewhere? And if you do t mind me asking how much do they charge for bundles of small parts? I couldn't find prices on their website. Cheers
Malcolm
Hi Malcolm, they do blasting (as far as i am aware) I didnt have to do this for my small parts as I have a sand blast cabinet. I got this lot done along with all the tub cappings, the windscreen, 2 front mesh grills, 2 spare wheel carriers, centre seat (under) tool box tray and the rear tailgate part that goes along the top / inside. £180.00 all in. I didnt do any prep on the larger parts.
Give them a call, they were good to deal with. The only pain is that you have to fill in a booking form and detail all the parts. I took loads of pictures and referenced each photo / per line - i.e. 'Photo #1, 8 small rear door parts'
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Thanks, that is very useful information. I will definitely have a think about getting that done in the near future
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Finished welding the axle case but got rained off before I could finish everything
Peter
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I pushed the boat out! Well I did once I eventually got there. On the way to my sons yacht I put 45 litres of fuel in the under seat tank and promptly broke down 500 yards later. Would only start and run on choke, so looks like the fresh fuel has caused a blockage in the slow running jet? It cleared after 3 miles and is back to idling nicely. When the wind and rain drops off a little I will remove the inlet from the carb and check the filter.
At just shy of 25 miles round trip it is the longest run I have done in this Land Rover so far. Still being run in.
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Think I should treat myself to a new intercooler.
(https://i.postimg.cc/VvvjYwYR/4-F5-E31-F4-8-E3-D-408-B-B94-C-AC30-E64901-E2.jpg)
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I pushed the boat out! Well I did once I eventually got there. On the way to my sons yacht I put 45 litres of fuel in the under seat tank and promptly broke down 500 yards later. Would only start and run on choke, so looks like the fresh fuel has caused a blockage in the slow running jet? It cleared after 3 miles and is back to idling nicely. When the wind and rain drops off a little I will remove the inlet from the carb and check the filter.
At just shy of 25 miles round trip it is the longest run I have done in this Land Rover so far. Still being run in.
If it happened that quickly it sounds as if its not the new fuel that is the problem, bar pouring the new stuff in has disturbed gunk in the bottom of the tank ? If you put 45 litres in then the tank must have been about empty ? Might be worth checking the state of the gauze on the pipe-up pipe, closeness of the pickup to the bottom of the tank and how much gunk is in on the bottom of it too ?
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Went to visit my nephew in Sheffield for the first time since the first lockdown started. I took him my spreadbore block to get welded and I came back with an S1 air cleaner and some beer.
Peter
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I made two rear axle brake line brakets for under the rear springs.
It was hot and humid ( 31 C) so I spent time in the basement making these.
Not as good as those from bits for landys but I enjoyed making them.
Thank for all here who posted diagrams and photos.
John
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Very neat!
I spent a pleasant hour in the sunshine reading up on the Zenith Carb design, operation and service notes, as I have a bit of a hesitation when moving up from idle to pull away. Seems those two tiny "progression" holes near the butterfly plate at the bottom are really important. Checked they were clear and generally syringed some clean petrol through the relevant tubes, and checked all the pump parts and economy diaphragm. Also used a bit of ptfe tape to try and better seal what I think is a cleaning plug whose threads looked a bit suspect, near the "progression" holes. I think perhaps air was leaking in there.
Went for a trial spin in the sunshine, roof off. It seems better but perhaps not perfect yet. I had 5 screaming 13-year old girls as passengers shouting at everyone we passed. Sometimes the screaming was so loud I had to cover my ears. Bounced them around a bit. Fun at times, embarrassing at others!
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Hinge and thermostat housing overhaul session...
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Mother in law put me and the 88 to work collecting a small shed from costco today!
(https://i.postimg.cc/gJrdKBfQ/20210522-160847.jpg)
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Took it out for a shakedown run after another adjustment session to the clutch .
Still just as bad . Jumped out of second gear after a few yards and then ok. Up through the box and down to third again , still ok. So I tried to replicate the previous fault by coming to rest in third and sure enough ... it wouldn’t come out of gear with the clutch down so I tried to jiggle it a bit and it came out with some crunching. Then it was a little troublesome driving home with third the most trouble.
I’m at the end of my tether with this situation.
Anyone know a garage around Rotherham who could help ?
Or any members nearby with any ideas ?
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:RHD I drove four young nurses for a camping trip to Wales in my 88" soft top many years ago. What was not to like? :-X
Very neat!
I spent a pleasant hour in the sunshine reading up on the Zenith Carb design, operation and service notes, as I have a bit of a hesitation when moving up from idle to pull away. Seems those two tiny "progression" holes near the butterfly plate at the bottom are really important. Checked they were clear and generally syringed some clean petrol through the relevant tubes, and checked all the pump parts and economy diaphragm. Also used a bit of ptfe tape to try and better seal what I think is a cleaning plug whose threads looked a bit suspect, near the "progression" holes. I think perhaps air was leaking in there.
Went for a trial spin in the sunshine, roof off. It seems better but perhaps not perfect yet. I had 5 screaming 13-year old girls as passengers shouting at everyone we passed. Sometimes the screaming was so loud I had to cover my ears. Bounced them around a bit. Fun at times, embarrassing at others!
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Went out to collect an agicultural 16foot hay trailer.
Arrived to find they were in the trees with a transit hooking up the trailer... so first job was to drag the now stuck tranny and trailer off the soft ground - no problem :-).
Then a steady run home with the beast banging along behind us - fab job by the old landy.
Love it whens she's really useful :-*
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Greetings from Colorado. I'm still trying to get my brakes right. Apparently , the fluid reservoir was "low", and air got into the brake lines. I just got my 1960 series 2. I am now going through all the obvious status checks (fluids, connections, grease the greasy parts, etc.) I am learning as I go. I bought some Whitworth size end wrenches, odd size (for me) socket wrenches, and will entertain any helpful suggestions about tools or anything I will be needing. Henry, my Land Rover, seems to be in good shape. But...,
3 wheel's brake line nipples were opened and bled with a SAE (Yank sizes) 7/16 wrench. The last, left front, seems to be a different size. 13/32 inch? I may have invented some new swear words while working on this project. More wrenches on order. Thoughts and perhaps a strong drink with a group of my peers? Kurt, the Hun
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(http://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/forum_files/hello.gif) & (http://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/forum_files/welcome.gif) to the Forum.
Sounds like someone has fitted a latter "metric" wheel cylinder to that corner :shakeinghead
13/32" is just about 10 mm spanner size.
Exmoor Trim sell a bespoke canvas tool roll, but you'll have to stock it yourself :eclipsee_gold_cup
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/Landrover_tool-roll.jpg)
You can do as I have done here:-
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/Landrover_tool-roll_open.jpg)
....with a selection of the most likely to be needed.
The tools in my roll ^^^ more or less are what they are.
1) Telescopic inspection mirror
2) 12V test bulb and leads
3) ¼” socket drive, with 2BA, 11mm (7/16”AF) and 7mm (for the rad hose clips)
4) Big adjustable spanner
5) Tyre pressure gauge
6) King Dick box spanner ¼” & 3/16”Whitworth with a junior hacksaw blade
7) Multi strip connector block
8) Period battery check gauge – nice find, but not essential
9) Propshaft bolt tool
10) Surgical artery clamps, good for holding nuts and washers in tight places.
11) 5/16” x ¼” AF spanner for the hand brake adjuster
12) 7/16” AF ring spanner
13) 7/16” AF ring spanner
14) 7/16” x ½” AF open ended spanner
15) ½” Halfords Professional spanner with ratchet end
16) 9/16” Halfords Professional spanner with ratchet end
17) RS mini adjuster spanner
18) 5/16" x ¼” Whitworth long crank ring
19) 5/16” x ¼” Whitworth open ended spanner
20) Wire cutters
21) Small long-nosed pliers
22) Adjustable wrench
23) Pozidrive stumpy screwdriver
24) Blade stumpy screrwdriver
25) Small hammer
26) Long reach screwdriver with screw holder – used for the 3 2BA screws that hold the speedo cable to the transfer box
27) Small electrical screwdriver
28) Big Pozidrive screwdriver
29) Big blade screwdriver
30) Medium blade screwdriver
31) Land Rover inspection lamp – sits in the cab, not in the tool roll.
The spanners are a good assortment of 7/16", 1/2" & 9/16" AF and for the drive flange bolts.
If you have a diesel engine then a 17mm combination spanner is good for the fuel line/injector fittings.
...or you can search your local autojumbles (and eBay) for the correct OE tools as they do come up from time-2-time.
This is what the "official" Land Rover tool kit/roll contained:-
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/tools_part_1.jpg)
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/tools_part_2.jpg)
Basically - You can never ever have too many spanners.
Then you might want to graduate to:-
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/Landrover_spanners.jpg)
Key to Spanners
1) 7/16” AF long ring
2) 7/16” AF ring & open end
3) 7/16” AF ring open end
4) 7/16” AF ring & open end
5) 7/16” AF small open ended
All good for body work panels, seat box and tub stays.
6) 7/16” & ½” AF ring
7) ½” AF Halfords Professional ratchet end
8) ½” x 9/16” AF ring
9) ½ x 9/16” long ring
All good for in the engine bay, manifold, carb & exhaust mountings, dynamo/alternator mounting, fuel and water pump fixings etc.
10) 2” Box spanner for wheel bearing retaining nuts.
11) King Dick ¼” W x 3/16” W box spanner.
12) 9/16” propshaft extension for 3/8” drive socket drive
13) 9/16” AF Halfords Professional ratchet end
14) 5/8” x 9/16” AF long crank ring
15) 5/16” x ¼” W long crank ring
16) 5/16” x ¼” W open ends
17) 5/16” x ¼” W open ends
18) 19) &20) set of 3 – 5/16”, ¼” & 1/8” W ring spanner set
21) ¼” socket drive with 2BA and 7/16” sockets, etc.
22) Big adjustable
23) Mini RS adjustable
24) 10” Bahco adjustable
Backed up with a decent socket set - Halfords Professional range is a good place to start looking - more so if you have a trade card - watch out for their special offers.
A decent socket set would make an ideal Christmas or Birthday present :eclipsee_gold_cup
You'll find both 3/8" and 1/2" drives useful with a nice long extension bar and a (digital) torque wrench could be handy.
.... and then when things go wrong or you need to make an adjustment:-
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/hammers.jpg)
... and you can never have too many hammers - just some of the Wittsend collection.
:RHD
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Brother Wittsend, you are a fountain of information. Thank you.
I am continually learning from my little Rover. It does have a petrol engine. I inherited a very basic tool kit which has exponentially grown in the very short time I've had the old girl. I do have a question or two if you have time and patience:
Should I assume nuts and things are Whitworth wrench sizes?
Obvious things like the trailer hitch on the rear bumper a mystery to me. USA trailer hitches use a ball coupling set up. This is quite different. How does this connect to a the trailer?
I hope to keep this as original as possible, meaning I will not remove this hitch. I'm just naive. (stupid, but without the attitude.)
I did try the metric sizes on the other nipples, but now I will try with the recalcitrant brake nipple.
The tool information is wonderful. Thank you again!
Kurt
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Brother Wittsend, you are a fountain of information. Thank you.
I am continually learning from my little Rover. It does have a petrol engine. I inherited a very basic tool kit which has exponentially grown in the very short time I've had the old girl. I do have a question or two if you have time and patience:
Should I assume nuts and things are Whitworth wrench sizes?
Obvious things like the trailer hitch on the rear bumper a mystery to me. USA trailer hitches use a ball coupling set up. This is quite different. How does this connect to a the trailer?
I hope to keep this as original as possible, meaning I will not remove this hitch. I'm just naive. (stupid, but without the attitude.)
I did try the metric sizes on the other nipples, but now I will try with the recalcitrant brake nipple.
The tool information is wonderful. Thank you again!
Kurt
Don't 'panic' too much about the comment re metric brake cylinder - it may be the case but I have come across these cylinders that are the correct Imperial threads and bore but have had 10mm (spanner size) bleed nipples fitted. Yep, a PITA but no big deal. SO long as the fitting thread and bore are correct it is fine.
HTH
Oh, and welcome to the madness of a Series Land Rover!
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Normally brake bleed screws (nipples if you must) are 7/16" AF.
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/brake%20bleed%20screw%20spanner-1.jpg)
7/16" AF is = to 11mm
Whilst metric spanners will (obviously) work on the Land Rover, I find it best to stick with imperial (marked) spanners.
You can gradually build up your collection as you go along and tackle the various jobs.
Fixings and fittings on the Land Rover are a mixture of thread sizes.
Body work and engine tend to be UNF threads.
Axles and transmission are BSF/Whitworth threads.
Electrical parts tend to use BA threads.
This is not set in stone.
We tend to work with spanner sizes as AF = across the flats.
If you look in the Workshop Manual at the start of each section they list the tools needs for the job, including the spanner sizes.
Club members can access the members section of the website where we have an extensive technical library where all/most of the workshop manuals can be accessed.
S2C members will need an access account creating by me - just ask.
:RHD
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I am curious to know the difference between 11mm and 7/16 and 13mm and 1/2 as I have one odd German made spanner that on one side is marked 11mm and 13mm and on the other side 7/16 and 1/2
Peter
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strictly by calculation (1inch = 25.4mm)
7/16" = 11.11mm
1/2" = 12.70mm
then there is whatever size they have actually made the jaw...
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Have a look at this spanner comparison table, found in the front of Haynes manuals :Haynes
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/spanner_sizes.jpg)
Here's another useful table:-
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/spanner%20conversion%20size%20table.jpg)
:tool-set
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Should I assume nuts and things are Whitworth wrench sizes?
Obvious things like the trailer hitch on the rear bumper a mystery to me. USA trailer hitches use a ball coupling set up. This is quite different. How does this connect to a the trailer?
What type of hitch is on it? Pin? Pintle?
Grover has the pin hitch setup, but with a ball mounted in the top hole (it'snot attachedin the pic); the ball is going to be replaced by a combo ball/pin. I do have a pintle as well, but since I don't have a trailer that works with it it'll remain on the shelf.
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For those of us in the States...
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A nice cheap tip ;)
... but I wouldn't want to remove a seat box like that.
You need 2 spanners, 1 to hold the head and another to turn the nut; so that's a 20¢ job.
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Today I am going to be investigating why I am getting a dangerous rear axle steering effect while driving in my now fuel injected 1971 SWB 2286! Get off the pedal and the vehicle goes to the right, get back on the pedal and immediately goes to the left, quite violently. I’m thinking the guy who installed my parabolic didn’t get the spring pin in the axle hole or maybe a couple of destroyed bushes! Standby for more later today!
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(http://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/forum_files/hello.gif) & (http://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/forum_files/welcome.gif) to the Forum.
Sounds like someone has fitted a latter "metric" wheel cylinder to that corner :shakeinghead
13/32" is just about 10 mm spanner size.
Exmoor Trim sell a bespoke canvas tool roll, but you'll have to stock it yourself :eclipsee_gold_cup
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/Landrover_tool-roll.jpg)
You can do as I have done here:-
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/Landrover_tool-roll_open.jpg)
....with a selection of the most likely to be needed.
The tools in my roll ^^^ more or less are what they are.
1) Telescopic inspection mirror
2) 12V test bulb and leads
3) ¼” socket drive, with 2BA, 11mm (7/16”AF) and 7mm (for the rad hose clips)
4) Big adjustable spanner
5) Tyre pressure gauge
6) King Dick box spanner ¼” & 3/16”Whitworth with a junior hacksaw blade
7) Multi strip connector block
8) Period battery check gauge – nice find, but not essential
9) Propshaft bolt tool
10) Surgical artery clamps, good for holding nuts and washers in tight places.
11) 5/16” x ¼” AF spanner for the hand brake adjuster
12) 7/16” AF ring spanner
13) 7/16” AF ring spanner
14) 7/16” x ½” AF open ended spanner
15) ½” Halfords Professional spanner with ratchet end
16) 9/16” Halfords Professional spanner with ratchet end
17) RS mini adjuster spanner
18) 5/16" x ¼” Whitworth long crank ring
19) 5/16” x ¼” Whitworth open ended spanner
20) Wire cutters
21) Small long-nosed pliers
22) Adjustable wrench
23) Pozidrive stumpy screwdriver
24) Blade stumpy screrwdriver
25) Small hammer
26) Long reach screwdriver with screw holder – used for the 3 2BA screws that hold the speedo cable to the transfer box
27) Small electrical screwdriver
28) Big Pozidrive screwdriver
29) Big blade screwdriver
30) Medium blade screwdriver
31) Land Rover inspection lamp – sits in the cab, not in the tool roll.
The spanners are a good assortment of 7/16", 1/2" & 9/16" AF and for the drive flange bolts.
If you have a diesel engine then a 17mm combination spanner is good for the fuel line/injector fittings.
...or you can search your local autojumbles (and eBay) for the correct OE tools as they do come up from time-2-time.
This is what the "official" Land Rover tool kit/roll contained:-
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/tools_part_1.jpg)
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/tools_part_2.jpg)
Basically - You can never ever have too many spanners.
Then you might want to graduate to:-
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/Landrover_spanners.jpg)
Key to Spanners
1) 7/16” AF long ring
2) 7/16” AF ring & open end
3) 7/16” AF ring open end
4) 7/16” AF ring & open end
5) 7/16” AF small open ended
All good for body work panels, seat box and tub stays.
6) 7/16” & ½” AF ring
7) ½” AF Halfords Professional ratchet end
8) ½” x 9/16” AF ring
9) ½ x 9/16” long ring
All good for in the engine bay, manifold, carb & exhaust mountings, dynamo/alternator mounting, fuel and water pump fixings etc.
10) 2” Box spanner for wheel bearing retaining nuts.
11) King Dick ¼” W x 3/16” W box spanner.
12) 9/16” propshaft extension for 3/8” drive socket drive
13) 9/16” AF Halfords Professional ratchet end
14) 5/8” x 9/16” AF long crank ring
15) 5/16” x ¼” W long crank ring
16) 5/16” x ¼” W open ends
17) 5/16” x ¼” W open ends
18) 19) &20) set of 3 – 5/16”, ¼” & 1/8” W ring spanner set
21) ¼” socket drive with 2BA and 7/16” sockets, etc.
22) Big adjustable
23) Mini RS adjustable
24) 10” Bahco adjustable
Backed up with a decent socket set - Halfords Professional range is a good place to start looking - more so if you have a trade card - watch out for their special offers.
A decent socket set would make an ideal Christmas or Birthday present :eclipsee_gold_cup
You'll find both 3/8" and 1/2" drives useful with a nice long extension bar and a (digital) torque wrench could be handy.
.... and then when things go wrong or you need to make an adjustment:-
(http://www.series2club.co.uk/gallery/technical/images/hammers.jpg)
... and you can never have too many hammers - just some of the Wittsend collection.
:RHD
Really nice visual.... I'm reorganizing my tools - a 'shop' set and an 'on board' set, this will be a good reference.
I do tend to have 3 or four extra of the main tools used - these are my 'father-in-law' tools. He is really, REALLY bad of just laying a tool around instead of putting it back. Because of those I have the extras. You'd be amused to know some of the places he's left tools.
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A nice cheap tip ;)
... but I wouldn't want to remove a seat box like that.
You need 2 spanners, 1 to hold the head and another to turn the nut; so that's a 20¢ job.
True.
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.... and then when things go wrong or you need to make an adjustment.
When things go wrong...
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My brother and I met up for the first time in 2 years.
We found a good use for the cup holders
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My brother and I met up for the first time in 2 years.
We found a good use for the cup holders
What kind of cup holders are those?
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What kind of cup holders are those?
printed by my daughter's partner
I can find the printer file for you, if you like
https:www.thingiverse.com/thing:3337714
he modified it with a bit of reinforcing and a magnet - I can't remember which filament he used
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printed by my daughter's partner
I can find the printer file for you, if you like
https:www.thingiverse.com/thing:3337714
he modified it with a bit of reinforcing and a magnet - I can't remember which filament he used
Cool. Thanks for the offer, I don't have a 3d printer and can't think of any I know who does.
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Putting things back together instead of taking them off 😇
Assembled the new exhaust manifold with its new spring, weight and home made stop pin, then fitted back on the block.
I changed the bolts out to all studs as per the early parts book, with long brass nuts (front and rear had to be cut down to clear the manifold).
My tame welder reattached the choke cable holder onto my old solex, which was interesting as it’s pot metal, which with its correct linkage (my other post), will hopefully work better than the copy zenith.
Onto the other side of the block tomorrow......
Jon
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Did a Lantra 4wd course today
Peter
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Thought about a year ago today*..... when I saw this yesterday.
*Blew up gearbox on west side of Long Mynd.
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Put the engine block back in.
Refitted dynamo, starter motor, oil filter and petrol pump.
Hoping to get the head back on tomorrow.
Put the battery on charge, in the hope of being able to start it tomorrow
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Drove it all the way home to lowestoft after buying and driving my first ever land rover from Wisbech, Great fun!
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Drove it all the way home to lowestoft after buying and driving my first ever land rover from Wisbech, Great fun!
Glad you’ve managed to find one :-*
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Managed to patch one of my rear quarter panels before the neighbour decided they didn't like the sound of my angle grinder :grinder