Hi,
To return to my project ...
Memory (yesterday?) says that Wittsend thinks I won't have enough points ... or something like that. My apologies if I misunderstood. I can't find that mail.
My calculations are...
.
CHASSIS. Original or new = 8 points.
AXLES (both) = 2 points. (I find that confusing. Do they mean you need BOTH axles to get 2 points, and get nothing for only one axle? Or BOTH axles get you two points each, so four points? I will assume the former, and use both axles.
TRANSMISSION = 2 points. I presume that means gearbox and prop-shaft? What happens if I don't fit the front prop-shaft? Still two points? Or zilch?
STEERING = 2 points. I will assume that a replacement heavy duty rods rod will be acceptable? I would like an S3 steering box, and boy-racer steering wheel.
ENGINE = 1 point.
At this stage of the game ( I haven't thrown a double-six yet) I will assume that I'll be using a qualifying chassis, both original axles, and qualifying steering.
I make that 9 points (5 + 2 + 2). I only need 8 points.
If push came to shove, I couild retain the original gearbox, giving me two more points. But I'm back to considering going automatic.
I don't think I can make that deciision until I have a bare chassis in front of me.
Auto boxes all have long "tail". Landy boxes have a transfer box stuck on the back end.
Auto boxes drive is in line with the centre of the crank-shaft, suggesting that the rear only out-put could be through the big PTO hole in the middle cross-member. Landy drive is cranked, down and sideways, through the transfer box, with the rear propshaft passing
under the chassis cross member.
QUESTION FOR TODAY
What are the chances of poking the gearbox tail through the PTO hole in the middle chassis, and cranking the prop-shaft down and across to meet the drive flange on the differential? Assume I have a little lee-way on spring height, but sideways is written in stone. A 109" chassis would be more forgiving.
The obvious solution is to drop the back of gearbox tail, to go under the chassis cross-member, but that would mean dropping the whole engine gearbox assembly. Not a problem with the gearbox support cross-member, just order a chassis with a detachable cross-member.
But the cross-member under the flywheel is a different matter. Fingers crossed that the donated clutch housing is physically smaller. If the donated engine is physically shorter, it may be possible to move the whole assembly forward, so taking the clutch housing diameter out of the equation, allowing me to drop the power unit by maybe a couple of inches.
I try to play by the rules (whenever possible), but things would be much easier, if the chassis could be supplied with two left hand engine mountings, which would allow me to centralise the engine, subject to other obstacles. I met this on one of my early projects, that the PO had fitted matching engine mounts to accept a V8. Rather than weld a new RH mount on the chassis, I cobbled a
cantilever mounting that bolted onto the side of my S2 engine, to bridge the gap.
I won't go into fitting a Cortina four cylinder engine into a Scimitar GTE ... the engine mounts were a sort of "contrived" Z-shaped construction, not difficult, and it worked. Mind you, I still wake up screaming.
Something just crossed my mind. S1 rear axles have a flange on the end of the half shaft. S1 front axles have the same system as S2s. Just an idle though sneaked through what passes as my brain ....
Will S1 half-shafts fit an S2 axle? And if so, could I fit similar looking "blanK" discs on the hubs of a non-driving front axle? Just to confuse people, you understand.
602