Print

[Genem]

Me too ...

I have made this crank tool from a £1 Whitworth ring spanner with an extended handle.
I have an electric rad fan, so have quite a bit of room to work the spanner in the left hand and watch what the valves are doing.

What is that twin top pulley from Alan ?   Something similar would solve an alternator mounting problem for me.

[Wittsend]

Good question ...
It was on the engine when I got the vehicle.
I don't know

[Genem]

^^^^ The 24v to 12v conversion on mine ends up with the alternator being bodged onto the bracket so it sits well back from "normal". Instead of the bracket being inside the two lugs of the alternator, my alternator is attached to the rear of the front part of the bracket and has a long bolt holding it at the rear. It works but I don't like it...   

[Peter Holden]

Mine has twin crank and water pump pulleys.

I am told that they are from a 24v FFR engine.

Peter

[Davidss]

Yes it's jammed with ep90. ... Hopefully something obvious will be wrong.

I held back initially because I thought someone else would comment, as they haven't ... .
There is a procedure detailed in the workshop manual for when the resistance to movement figure is too high.
If not already tried, this procedure might be a reasonable first step.

Regards.

[Genem]

Mine has twin crank and water pump pulleys.

I am told that they are from a 24v FFR engine.

Peter

That would be right Peter, they ran on a twin belt system, with a very large generator - 40 amp on earlier and 90 amp in the case of later vehicles. What I'd like to sort out is how to best sort them to run with a standard alternator hanging on a standard bracket. The POs solution is less than elegant... Perhaps a thread for Workshop Wisdom..

[gvo416j R.I.P.]

Can you not just acquire some std. secondhand crank and water pump pulleys from someone on here, or elsewhere 

Unless I am mistaken they are a straight swap for the military double pulleys and if you have the std. alternator bracket you already have the expensive bit.

The military bits also usually sell for good amounts to people wanting to mount other powered items to the engine if you have no plans to use them as intended.

[Wittsend]

This stray feral cat we call Fluffy adopted us some 3 years ago. It took a year before he'd let us stroke him.

He comes for a feed every day, he sleeps in the garage (we have a cat flap).
When it's nice he sleep on the roof.
He's now taken to sleeping in the Panda camper - the floor plates are up for the front end renovation.

[Fluffle-Valve]

Did someone call me?

[Simon1959]

I took Gertie for a run out to our local Land Rover specialist, run by a couple of real enthusiasts. The brief was to conduct an inspection, principally on safety grounds. I now have a list of 17 items to look at! Nothing major thankfully, odds and sods.

The engine is running “as sweet as a nut” and the tweaks to the carb have really made a real difference to the drive. The return spring on the accelerator mechanism snapped on the way home and its now ticking over at about 2000 rpm. Make that 18 items on the list!

[Wittsend]

Did someone call me?

Nearly ...

I now have a list of 17 18 items to look at! Nothing major thankfully, odds and sods.

Any chance of posting up your list - it might help some as to what to check on their Land Rovers

[Simon1959]

Sure thing. These are all PO crimes, so give me an easy ride here! Plus I am interpreting his oily note!

1a. Brake pipes - The front flexible hoses aren’t correct and need clipping to the swivel. They don’t go all the way to the cylinder and will rub.
1b. The brake pipe running to the rear needs a nut to clamp the bulkhead fitting. Its loose
1c. One brake line goes over the gearbox, but should be under it and clipped to cross member?
2. Rear Axle strap - Too short? Need to check
3. Exhaust - Mid section bracket to chassis missing
4. Dynamo clamp loose - My fault!
5. Front flexi bracket - As per no. 1
6. Front bump stop. One needs repairing and new bracket welding on other side as its missing.
7. Body to back - The tub needs bolting to the chassis at the front. Holes seem to be missing.
8. Strap wiring - Some of the wiring isn’t fastened down well enough. Fasten to chassis/body
9. Wing stays front and rear - Two missing and need fitting. Skirts need bolting too
10. Mud guards - Missing and need fitting
11. Bumper bolt missing
12. Wiper & washers. Wipers are work in progress. Washers don’t seem to have ever been fitted.
13. Battery clamp - Missing
14. 2 boots on track rod ends - Need replacing
15. HT lead to coil - Currently made up of two leads.
16. Springs - Isn’t sitting very well. Have springs been incorrectly fitted, mixed up?
17. Duplicate of 16

18. Return spring for throttle brakes - Replace

I guess it boils down to a lack of attention to detail by the PO and the inexperience of the current owner

[Peter Holden]

Gene, I run the standard alternator on the standard bracket using the rearmost part of the crank and water pump pulleys.  I use the front part for the vac pump on the drivers side where the 24v alternator bwould have been mounted, it is on a home made bracket.

Peter

[GRMac]

Got the bulkhead back on 

Feels like an overwhelmingly long way to go still

[Manxcat]

^^^^ The 24v to 12v conversion on mine ends up with the alternator being bodged onto the bracket so it sits well back from "normal". Instead of the bracket being inside the two lugs of the alternator, my alternator is attached to the rear of the front part of the bracket and has a long bolt holding it at the rear. It works but I don't like it...

Having seen Tonka's set up, I think that the alternator the PO "fitted" may have a pulley with a different depth front to back than the LR one.
Lucas made many different pulleys of different diameters and offsets to fit the vehicles.
Just 'cause that PO fitted it doesn't make it the right part ( like the wood screws attaching the headlamps!  ).

Once you've got the engine back from Jim and lockdown has eased a bit more,
we have have a fiddle with some of my spares and make sure the belt lines up
and that the alternator is fitted inside the bracket not lobbed at the back of it.