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[2286]

Is the a correct way to angle the door top.

Historically I have seen folks tweak the mounting studs with a slight bend.

Ok if the studs and top are not weakened by rust.

I have alloy mod tops, not keen on the bend technique, at present I have packed onside more than the other to push it away from the vehicle as it was so tight against the screen and upper/roof seal strips it was flexing the door top and making it difficult to shut and latch.

I know the roof seal has some trim/movement but the screen rubber is fixed.

The door its self is square and flush in its hole, as good as land rovers get anyway.

It is drivers side, passenger ok, so its not a bulkhead screen or tub alignment issue.

Any thoughts?

[diffwhine]

I tend to get a bit brutal with this. A block of wood along the top door seal and then gently but firmly put pressure on the door itself so you are pressing the door top against the block of wood. Usually I find it straightens it enough.

Not a lot different from how we used to get Defender doors to fit on the line...

[2286]

Love those tails from the factory dw.

In the case of the early one ten and mod tops they are a lot more stout than the door bottoms they are perched on.

[diffwhine]

Love those tails from the factory dw.

Some will never get out to the public (or at least I hope they never do!).

I had a set of new door tops on an 88" recently which didn't fit well (Paintman ones as well!). They had my usual level of brutality and now sit fine.

[2286]

I had these tops on s2a bottoms on my 1970 12 seater no issues, but swapped them to my s3 and they have never been right.

Even though they are originals could the door bottom, or the galvanised waist rail be the issue.

I would put the 2a bottoms on but for the check strap difference.

[Sheppy]

I have the mod aluminium tops on mine they don’t touch at the top either when shut, I’ve been reluctant to bend them in at the top, any ideas on how to get the top to meet?

[nathanglasgow]

You are right in not wanting to bend the mod aluminium door tops. In service the welds cracked frequently. To bring the tops out/in you may have to get clever with changing the angle of the tubes in the door by cutting and rewelding or you could have a go at removing the screw in studs from the door top and bending them in a vice. However these studs often are corroded in.

[Sheppy]

Thanks, i think the screw in studs may come out as I put them in about 2yrs ago with plenty of grease

[Noddy]

I've found a small but possibly significant difference between the early 110 door tops and series ones namely the height. The 110 ones are 3mm smaller than the series ones but it does show at the top of the door where the door seal is not fully covered when the door is shut. A strip of 3mm insertion rubber between door bottom and top may be the answer or possibly a thicker piece which is chamfered to alter the angle of the door top to meet the seal at the top.

Alec

[Sheppy]

Yes I agree I think mine are off a 110 as they seem to be a tad short

[2286]

I had a good look at the door tubes and the one closest to the bulkhead has way more flex in than the one at the b pillar.

Even if you shimmed and fettled till the cows come home I doubt you could improve on whats there without major surgery.

The top studs are still in the gold passivate finish, I greased them when ever its apart.

They are phenomenal water traps, and even when greased and passivated you still have to expect the black water escape when you undo the bolt.

The alloy tops drain different and use sponge foam dams in the underside of the frame to divert to the gap in the rubber sealing strip.

Doors studs on standard tops often look like sacrificial bits on ships crossed with stalactites.

[w3526602]

Love those tales from the factory dw.

Hi,

A memory , probably from the 1960s, should have you "lusting", rather than "loving". It was probably recounted by William Boddy, then Editor of MOTOR SPORT https://www.series2club.co.uk/new_forum/Smileys/wittsends/stars.gifmagazine.

The story goes (went?) that ALLARD (Google, if you are not familiar with the name) had a stub of telegraph pole sunk into the factory floor.
 
On completion, the cars would be driven into that pole, so that the impact was taken on which ever front corner would provide the necessary de-lozenging of the chassis. 

Which reminds me, one of our neighbours in South Croydon (Blenheim Park Road) bought one of the newly introduced Minis (Promptly christened "Mini-Bricks", by Bill Boddy), and didn't set the hand-brake properly , the first time he parked it in his drive.  He found it the following morning, parked corner to corner, against his house ... with a noticeable lozenge in the body shell. Ooops!

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