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[A-Ro]

The 6 pot is a bit difficult to start, she tries to go the instant I push the starter but she dies immediately and it carries on like this with every start putting a bit more heat into the engine so each attempt is a little bit closer until with a flurry of pops and bangs she fires up and will start for the rest of the day. I’ve long suspected the choke because it makes no difference whether I pull the choke or leave it alone however it is difficult to see what’s going on when you’re trying to diagnose things on your own. I decided I’d give it more of a go today and soon worked out that pulling the choke out wasn’t doing anything at the carb end but there was no real reason why that should be so I took the dash apart and found there was a bit of slack on the cable sleeve so I over pulled the cable and thought that this was moving at the carb end but there was no way of proving it because the cable was now past the point where it could be locked in place. Hence the video, I set the video running and lodged it in the engine compartment, I pulled the cable once and was sure it was moving so I thought I’d do it one more time, check my suspicions with the video then set about tightening the cable. You can hear me audibly sigh when the cable came out. It’s so tight in there with the brake servo and the bonnet in the way I knew it was a bonnet off job to fix it and the bonnet mounted spare makes it a less than enjoyable job on a baking hot day on your own. The good news is it’s fixed now, she starts a lot better and I’ve realised I need another socket in the car because I have 2 different sized bolts on the bonnet mount, I’ve ordered a proper sized bolt now. The only downside is I’ve managed to scratch the wing up putting the bonnet back which will be a job for tomorrow.

https://www.facebook.com/1027245346/videos/835502717093868/

[nathanglasgow]

I presume you need to be a Facebook member to see the vids or is there another way?

[A-Ro]

I could try putting it up on YouTube but believe me you will be very disappointed. 

[A-Ro]

https://youtube.com/shorts/DlAhW33i8sQ?feature=share

[w3526602]

Hi,

The following may (or may not) be relevant, but store it in your memory banks anyway.

I assume yo are familiar with the strips of electrical cable connectors (described as CHOC-BLOCKS by the Hillman Imp Club) ... small metal, one in, one out connectors, with two screws to connect electric wires, all encased in clear plastic. Just use a Stanley Craft Knife to cut off the required number of connectors. They come in three sizes ... 5A ... 10A and 15A.

The 5AMP connectors will join choke cable inners, and the 15AMP will join choke cable outers ... but they are mutually exclusive, location wise.

Your local HALFORDS will have a shelf full of all the all the components necessary to cobble-up an accelerator cable. For an accelerator cable, I suggest brake cable outer (buy it by the yard) and deraileur (sp?) gear inner cable (about 1500mm long). If you were ever "into" bikes, you are probably aware of all the gubbins that are available.

But be warned, if you cut an inner cable, it will unravel ... unless you solder the area around where you intend to cut ...and then cut by grinding. I usually use a solderless nipple, then coil up the excess. (I do miss my soldering iron on Mum's gas ring).

When I was still in short trouser, my local model shop would sell sell 3ft lengths of piano wire, in various thicknesses ... but it wasn't nice stuff to work with ... though I did ponder on making a woven framework, birdcage-cum--Wellington Bomber style, bonded inside GRP matting. But it's been many years since I could afford a pre-war Austin 7 project. I think I weighted about 40kg last time I sat in an Austin 7 "Special".

602

PS,  OT -  A wheel fell of my rotary lawn-mower. Barbara to the rescue ... Amazon delivered a pack of assorted R-clips, less than 24 hours later.