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[Kev-Lar]

Hi all, I’ve took the doors off the series 2 this afternoon to hopefully get them painted tomorrow, but my question is.. when I put the doors back on, should there be anything between the hinge and door and the hinge and bulkhead like a rubber gasket or is just straight metal to metal? I have the proper hinges, not later ones. If so where can get them from??

Kev.

[AlexB]

no gaskets / rubber .

Painted metal to painted metal

[DeezleWeezle]

You can use a sliver of anti-corrosion tape or similar- diameter is negligible and it will protect your door skin. Or Duralac paste.

[Kev-Lar]

Hi all. Ok, I got the doors painted and this afternoon I’ve fitted them back on. The door shuts better now than it ever did previously and the alignment down the front and rear of the door is good but at the bottom and top is dreadful. Have I got something drastically wrong somewhere?, something twisted? Any thoughts/help appreciated.

Kev.

[Wittsend]

Factory tolerances



 

[Formerlyjeremy]

It all depends on what you've taken apart.  Front of the rear tub may need raising or lowering, or more likely if the bulkhead has been disturbed it needs the top end moving a little by loosening its mounts.  Then and perhaps first there should be a considerable amount of 'float' on the hinge bolts - especially the pillar end.

[DeezleWeezle]

Sounds like you've got the difficult bit right already - the front and rear - so don't move them, at least not yet.

The bottom is usually simple - slacken the upright bracket that holds the sill rail (under seatbox edge) to the body (i.e. the bolts behind where seatbelt anchor points go) and you will be able to move that up/down/in/out as required. Might need to slacken some seat box bolts. (Having written this, I remembered mine has no actual sills, so it might not be quite that easy if you have sills.)

Top adjustment depends on what roof you have. With a hardtop (or, to a lesser extent, a truck cab) you can get a lot of movement just by slackening the bolts and the screen. Be aware that any stresses you increase or reduce on the screen frame could make minor differences to the bulkhead alignment.

If you are still a long way out on the door top, you can cheat by adding a washer or two under the galvanised capping, but it shouldn't be necessary to do so unless there's no other way. Hope that helps.