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[Piggle]

My humble view is buy it if you like it and can afford it. Don’t worry too much about what could be the case with the chassis in the future...just check as much as you are able to at this stage; you can never be 100% sure.
As for an investment, who known, but I certainly would not buy any vehicle with that as my intention. Buy it, enjoy it, and if it happens to go up in value, then that’s just a bonus.
Good luck.

[AlexB]

Hi
There aren't many of us here who buy a series as an investment, to be honest.
I would suggest that, in the shorter term, prices of vehicles (and therefore hard to get second hand spares) will go up.
My thoughts are;
you don't get much in the way of welding nowadays for £1000 - esp if you have to remove rear tub or wings to get at the offending bits to do properly
A new chassis (even with members 5% discount) is about £1800 plus several days labour to change.
The existing chassis will, most probably, be in need of several bits of repair - if it is the original
A "dealer" (depending on who she / he is) might not be too willing to accept the fact that chassis rust - and from the inside.
My advice would be to get a member to come with you on your second look at it and not to be in a hurry to purchase
Good luck

[Rog-from-Bix]

My humble view is buy it if you like it and can afford it. Don’t worry too much about what could be the case with the chassis in the future...just check as much as you are able to at this stage; you can never be 100% sure.

Couldn't disagree more, if they are asking galvanised chassis money for one on a welded chassis than was going to need more work in the near future even if you liked it on viewing you would be mad to buy it (talking generally not this one in particular)   . 

[adriansewell]

£10k?

[GRMac]

Two facts that I apply to any aspect of Land Rover ownership for my own sanity:

You'll never know if you made the right choice either way

No problem is ever insurmountable

[Genem]

£10k?

It sold at auction 4 years ago for £2400 if I'm reading it right. The work that's been done since does not justify a 400% increase in value.   

[agg221]

In terms of pure economic value, I would start from a nominal £15k for a fully sorted out 'lights in grille' era vehicle. Factors can increase that value (e.g. originality, history, higher than usual specification) or decrease it. Lights in wings is less desirable currently than lights in grille and an original chassis with known rust issues knocks a lot more off the value.

As it stands, I would be looking at a base price of £8k if the chassis is sound and it can be driven and used with only ongoing maintenance, £5k if it is basically sound but needs some welding work which needs the tub and other parts off. If you crawl underneath and poke it a bit with a screwdriver and can make holes in the lower face of the rails and in the outriggers then you basically have a project in need of a new chassis. Projects are not bad, but should be priced accordingly. It would also have me seriously questioning the work which has been done if the chassis has been ignored, since it suggests a focus on the cosmetic rather than the functional and in a vehicle of this type I personally want the latter prioritised for safety reasons.

With regard to values, I really wouldn't want to predict the future in the field of collectibles. In the 1980s longcase (grandfather) clocks were still being broken up for firewood. By the early 2000s they were 'in' and the most basic 8 day longcase ('grandfather') clock would be £2-3k. The same can now be had for around £500.

Alec

[Bemm52]

I’m might be king of the dumb questions but isn’t 1971 build date a series 3.....??

Cheers Paul
.

[Phil2014]

I’m might be king of the dumb questions but isn’t 1971 build date a series 3.....??

Cheers Paul
.

I could be wrong, but I think August 71 was the end of series 2a production?
Phil.

[Bemm52]

I could be wrong, but I think August 71 was the end of series 2a production?
Phil.

Looking more closely at pictures no plastic dash so 2a but as you point out no doubt on the cusp of the change over

Got to admit I’m know fan of the series3 plastic dash arrangement

[Wittsend]

Series 3s launched on the 1st September 1971.

Of course there was a cross-over as quite a few Series 2s were still in the "system".

Specialist Series 2s were still being made 2 years later as contracts were completed.



 

[PTT]

How did the story end?

 

[Smokey 11a]

Rule one.
 Cars of any kind only have one price, that's what the seller is willing to take and the buyer is willing to pay.. Ask what ever, doesn't mean they will get it. I bid and walk away if I can't do a deal. Bid on a few here, had a rude comments more than once, I then I find out it was sold to a dealer for a lot less. Rule one applies, don't be rude, it costs you.
Rule two,
 Sometimes the fist bid is the best bid..

[agg221]

Rule one.
 Cars of any kind only have one price, that's what the seller is willing to take and the buyer is willing to pay.

A bit more complex than that, and on-topic for this thread and anyone buying/selling cars, or anything else for that matter.

There is a maximum that the buyer will pay and a minimum the seller will accept. If these match then there is a single agreed price, but more usually they either don't meet, in which case there is no sale, or there is an overlap in which case there is a window in which a deal can be agreed. The trick is to identify where that window is.

It is actually a bit more subtle than a simple window. At the upper end there is usually a price which the buyer will pay but not be happy about; at the lower end is a price the seller will accept but not be happy about. Whether you are aiming to be in the central region where both sides are happy, or at one end or the other, depends a lot on whether you have a relationship between the buyer and the seller. If there is a relationship you need everyone to be happy, otherwise the relationship will be damaged which may be more important than the short-term financial outcome.

Usually, the need for a relationship depends on the need for repeat business. If it is a one-off purchase with little likelihood of repeat business then there is no need for a relationship and both sides will do best by fighting very hard. This is one of the reasons that estate agents and used car salesmen have such a bad reputation - they will probably have moved on by the next time you buy a house or car so have nothing to gain from a good relationship. By contrast, your garage/barber/car parts shop has every reason to want your long term custom and you don't want to have to keep shopping around, so it is easier for everyone to reach a figure that both parties are genuinely happy with.

The other thing not to forget about is identifying other aspects of a sale/purchase which may be of negligible value to you, but very significant to the other party (or vice versa). For example, how long can they hold it for you? do they have a mate who will drop it off for peanuts? is there a garage full of spares which, once the vehicle has gone will be useless and actually cost them time and effort taking them to the tip? Questions like this should be discussed before the price as they define the specific value, to you and the other party, at that point in time. A non-car related example - when we bought this house there was a 40ft storage container in the garden which the owners were going to have to empty anyway. We were moving about 10 miles so we agreed that, on exchange of contracts, they would make it available to us. I moved all my garage and outdoor stuff first, then all the small indoor stuff and finally the weekend before moving borrowed work's van and moved the furniture. Spreading it over the 3 weeks between exchange and completion saved me £3k in moving costs and cost the previous owner nothing.

Alec

[Smokey 11a]

Just a long winded way of saying what I did. If neither seller or buyer are happy it won't happen.